What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (44 Viewers)

[RevISK]

Uh huh

Real estate is cheap too.

 

[newbtrayback]

Real estate is cheap too.

Yes but only if your downtown

 

[bikersmurf]

Yes but only if your downtown

Just like it is here… 900k for a fixer upper (possibly tear down).

 

[81fj40]

Looks like your initial doors gaps are lining up. We used the AQ cowl and windshield frame and that took some “tweaking” to get everything lined up with good gaps on the door/windshield and door to tub alignments. Curious to see how you look with the Hard Top cap in place. I did catch you’re using your windshield frame, just curious to see if the stock frame is a factor.

Nicely done BTW..

Thanks, getting everything lined up and fitting "good enough" has been an interesting challenge. The one door gap issue with the windshield frame (AQ) is a gap from the front, hard to explain but the top of the door frame sticks out from the side of the window frame and is not flush. I don't really see how I can fix that but I think with the door rubber in place, it will seal up. I plan to get the hard top done first, then lay it on top and start to loosely bolt things back together, adjusting as I go.

 

[Pitter Patter]

Thanks, getting everything lined up and fitting "good enough" has been an interesting challenge. The one door gap issue with the windshield frame (AQ) is a gap from the front, hard to explain but the top of the door frame sticks out from the side of the window frame and is not flush. I don't really see how I can fix that but I think with the door rubber in place, it will seal up. I plan to get the hard top done first, then lay it on top and start to loosely bolt things back together, adjusting as I go. View attachment 3554216

You may be able to get some adjustment by working the inner hinges. Here’s a pic of what the upper looks like. They offer a very small amount of movement but you may be able to adjust the lower one out and the upper one in. If you need more movement then you could remove them and slot the holes a bit for more room to adjust them.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Real estate is cheap too.

Yes but only if your downtown

Must be those dang Okies moving in with all their stacks of money.


Or maybe it's those people from somewhere west of Texas.......

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Here’s my latest adventure. The original lift shocks were trashed and I was too cheap to buy the CityRacer option so I got lucky ordering stuff from Amazon. I had to drill out the pin holes to make room for the shock studs and I flipped the top and shimmed out the bottom with extra nuts I had laying around. Super easy and works nice too. I believe I could’ve gone .5 to .75 inches longer on the lift struts if I wanted more height. I have the same lifted height as with the OEM.
Lift struts from Amazon Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B28PT9KG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Ball studs Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FJXJH5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[JKIII FJ40]

And another project is almost complete. I wasn’t crazy about the mirrors mounted in the windshield frame and I didn’t like the pre-75 model mirrors so I decided to build brackets to mount Land Rover defender mirrors. Many ways to do it, I went this route as I didn’t want to drill the door to mount the mirrors. Pretty stout and will snap out of the way it hit.

 

[troutbum4]

And another project is almost complete. I wasn’t crazy about the mirrors mounted in the windshield frame and I didn’t like the pre-75 model mirrors so I decided to build brackets to mount Land Rover defender mirrors. Many ways to do it, I went this route as I didn’t want to drill the door to mount the mirrors. Pretty stout and will snap out of the way it hit.

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I love my defender mirrors, I chose to go the 3d printing route for that piece underneath. For those interested, there is a file here in mud w that info.

 

[avicenna110]

Finished my wiring harness finally. Was mostly in good condition, replaced some melted wires and connectors thanks to @Coolerman

 

[Vossie]

Thanks, getting everything lined up and fitting "good enough" has been an interesting challenge. The one door gap issue with the windshield frame (AQ) is a gap from the front, hard to explain but the top of the door frame sticks out from the side of the window frame and is not flush. I don't really see how I can fix that but I think with the door rubber in place, it will seal up. I plan to get the hard top done first, then lay it on top and start to loosely bolt things back together, adjusting as I go. View attachment 3554216

You may be able to get some adjustment by working the inner hinges. Here’s a pic of what the upper looks like. They offer a very small amount of movement but you may be able to adjust the lower one out and the upper one in. If you need more movement then you could remove them and slot the holes a bit for more room to adjust them.
View attachment 3554379
View attachment 3554380

Same issue with my doors. Those inner hinges do allow for some wiggle room but that top passenger side one has to be by far and away the worst job to do on a 40. Getting my hand up in between the glove box and the inside of the tub to tighten those bolts is my most hated job.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for getting to those easier?

 

[tarheel40]

Finally replaced the old KM2s with the updated KM3s, absolutely amazed how much better it rides with fresh tires! Also put in a little elbow grease with some Meguiars #7 to get the paint shining a bit better and sealed it with Liquid Glass. Mr. T did a nice job with this single stage paint 48 years ago!

 

[RevISK]

Finally replaced the old KM2s with the updated KM3s, absolutely amazed how much better it rides with fresh tires! Also put in a little elbow grease with some Meguiars #7 to get the paint shining a bit better and sealed it with Liquid Glass. Mr. T did a nice job with this single stage paint 48 years ago!

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I like that color more and more every time I see it.

 

[tarheel40]

I like that color more and more every time I see it.

Thanks, it’s grown on me a lot over the years. Looks a lot more olive now, the pic below is the day I bought it - the paint was really oxidized and looked like a faded brown. Multiple applications of Meguiars #7, all by hand, and letting it soak in before removing completely changed the look a few years ago. This weekend just one application removed some mild oxidation and the paint is alive again!

 

[aging fleet]

Got the steering box resealed and installed. Put it all back together, got the alignment good enough, then took the dog down to the river for a walk.

 

[Polecat]

Same issue with my doors. Those inner hinges do allow for some wiggle room but that top passenger side one has to be by far and away the worst job to do on a 40. Getting my hand up in between the glove box and the inside of the tub to tighten those bolts is my most hated job.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for getting to those easier?

Find a friend with small hands.

J/k. I had good luck with a long-handled ratcheting wrench when I redid my hinges.

 

[middlecalf]

Remove the kickout vent, and use that opening for access, with a long-handled ratcheting wrench @Polecat suggests. Be careful of ignition switch on driver’s side, disconnect battery.

 

[Bella1992]

 

[mattressking]

View attachment 3556745View attachment 3556746

2" spacers on the 40? Front looks real wide.

 

[DIRDY]

Cleaned and painted seat frames and brackets put on my Cruiser Corps seat covers but before I finished it all up I brushed my Buddy Thunder put some of his fur in a vacuum bag zip tied it into the passenger side back rest so we can go for rides even after he is gone