Christmas related cruiser thing
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (55 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Michael B
SILVER Star
That’s a cool tee shirt. Care to share where you found it?
Things I Do in My Spare Time, FJ40 Shirt, LAND CRUISER, LANDCUISER, DAD GIFT
ebay vendor cruisercraft
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Took advantage of some free time to change the manual steering box oil and replace the bleeder 90930-03058. The hand pump worked great to remove the old oil.
Also getting ready to reassemble my Aisin carbeurator federal 2/76-8/76 21100-61022. It’s gratifying assembling with clean and zinc plated linkages and hardware.
Also getting ready to reassemble my Aisin carbeurator federal 2/76-8/76 21100-61022. It’s gratifying assembling with clean and zinc plated linkages and hardware.
Michael B
SILVER Star
Thank you sir!
Merry Christmas everyone 
had some free time today and decided to replace/upgrade the dash lights in my 1977 FJ40. I will include the lights that ordered from Superbrightleds.com & if does anyone know if the round connector (pic2) that plugs into the back of the cluster will only go in one way or if I have to align it correctly? Any recommendations on lube for the speedometer cable?
Pic 1: 2 screws that have to be removed to tilt dash forward ( I removed the speedometer cable by loosening the line from the holders on the body and it gave me enough slack to push the cable into the cab tilting the cluster forward. I then used a zip tie to secure the cable and a small flathead to pry around the base of the cable and it came free.)
Pic 2: Round connector that needs to be removed to pull out cluster gently pull the connector off.
Pic 3: Positive and negative connections for the cluster and the zip tie I used to get the speedo cable off in the background
Pic 4: Lights I used to replace “yazaki” bulbs that were in cluster
Pic 5: Cluster taken out and bulbs replaced. To remove the old bulbs twist counter clockwise and the black sockets should come out then pull the bulb out of the socket.
had some free time today and decided to replace/upgrade the dash lights in my 1977 FJ40. I will include the lights that ordered from Superbrightleds.com & if does anyone know if the round connector (pic2) that plugs into the back of the cluster will only go in one way or if I have to align it correctly? Any recommendations on lube for the speedometer cable? Pic 1: 2 screws that have to be removed to tilt dash forward ( I removed the speedometer cable by loosening the line from the holders on the body and it gave me enough slack to push the cable into the cab tilting the cluster forward. I then used a zip tie to secure the cable and a small flathead to pry around the base of the cable and it came free.)
Pic 2: Round connector that needs to be removed to pull out cluster gently pull the connector off.
Pic 3: Positive and negative connections for the cluster and the zip tie I used to get the speedo cable off in the background
Pic 4: Lights I used to replace “yazaki” bulbs that were in cluster
Pic 5: Cluster taken out and bulbs replaced. To remove the old bulbs twist counter clockwise and the black sockets should come out then pull the bulb out of the socket.
Merry Christmas. I built a speaker enclosure for behind the front seats housing a Polk amp and JBL 6x9s. This to complement the mid tweeters in the dash.
Started replacing the oil pan gasket
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
My oil pan write up: ih8mud.com/tech/oilpan.php
I tried those LEDs and went back to regular. IMO they were not as bright as the originals.Merry Christmas everyone
Pic 1: 2 screws that have to be removed to tilt dash forward ( I removed the speedometer cable by loosening the line from the holders on the body and it gave me enough slack to push the cable into the cab tilting the cluster forward. I then used a zip tie to secure the cable and a small flathead to pry around the base of the cable and it came free.)
Pic 2: Round connector that needs to be removed to pull out cluster gently pull the connector off.
Pic 3: Positive and negative connections for the cluster and the zip tie I used to get the speedo cable off in the background
Pic 4: Lights I used to replace “yazaki” bulbs that were in cluster
Pic 5: Cluster taken out and bulbs replaced. To remove the old bulbs twist counter clockwise and the black sockets should come out then pull the bulb out of the socket.
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I need to do mine too and bang my distributor out from the bottom so I can rotate it again.
Were you happy with the part and the service? I'm looking at ordering one too.
Yes very happy with it even though I haven’t opened it yet.
I used Amayama for a load of 14B toyota diesel parts…while it took 3 weeks to get here, most of came from UAE and Japan. Shipping stings a bit but I had tried to get these parts locally or at US vendors first with no luck. Some of it were truly oddball pieces like injectors, seats, springs, gaskets, and cooling parts. When they showed up as all original Toyota parts, I was clearly thrilled and they all installed easily. Partsouq and Megazip also did very well.
getting sick and tired of this f‘ing autocorrect. Gotta re-edit 20% of every post
getting sick and tired of this f‘ing autocorrect. Gotta re-edit 20% of every post
One TRE out and replaced (loosely for now), and a second one out, but it's being a PITA to remove from the rod. I'll let it soak and hit it with fire again. I also cleaned up the threads on a stripped windshield screw hole on the pax side and replaced the screw. Tonite I'm going to try to figure out what I have with the front hubs - 1979 FJ55 axles.
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
You might want to hit up Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for some Aisin Freewheeling hubs. I'd put Kroil on for breaking the thread bond.One TRE out and replaced (loosely for now), and a second one out, but it's being a PITA to remove from the rod. I'll let it soak and hit it with fire again. I also cleaned up the threads on a stripped windshield screw hole on the pax side and replaced the screw. Tonite I'm going to try to figure out what I have with the front hubs - 1979 FJ55 axles.
In 55 years of playing with my cars or trucks, aside from a formula a friend in the navy told me to mix up, I have found nothing better than KROIL for rusted, stuck parts and fittings. Probably 5x the cost but….
I see the ad, says Kroil Original Foumula. You mean to tell me that the EPA hasn't fkd with that yet? They've ruined everything else.
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
Finished up my head gasket install, adjusted valves, filled up the oil and coolant then started it up. Running great to my surprise, none of my hoses are leaking and it sounds like the valves are within spec, so I let it idle for a few minutes and warm up.
Notice a bit of white smoke from the exhaust that seems to get worse the longer it runs. Unfortunately it also appears the cooling system is building pressure as well as the hoses are very tight. So I shut it off after about 10 minutes.
Guessing this head is cracked somewhere, I have heard these are more prone to cracking than earlier 2F heads were. Find it strange that my head gasket would blow, head would crack and the radiator split open all within a couple minutes of each other. Don't know why I seem to have the worst luck with Toyota engines.
Back in the 90s I managed to crack another another head with very similar symptoms, that engine was a 76 2F that had a shaved F head installed. Took a bit to diagnose, found exhaust in the coolant and at the time I just replaced the head to fix it.
This time around I have an 87 2F in the same FJ40. It has flat top pistons, rings and valves seal well, head gasket is new and I know I torqued it correctly, no water in the oil or vice versa. As soon as I get some time I'm going to pull the plugs and check for moisture then do a compression test.
Wondering what my next step is. Doubt heads can be repaired so it seems I need to find another yet again. Later 2F heads seem to be hard to find and expensive, are they my only option? Is it possible to swap an earlier 2F or possibly a later F head onto my 87 block? Appreciate any insight,
was truly hoping to get this 'ol 40 back on the road soon. Searched but can find only limited information on this topic. Thanks!!!
Notice a bit of white smoke from the exhaust that seems to get worse the longer it runs. Unfortunately it also appears the cooling system is building pressure as well as the hoses are very tight. So I shut it off after about 10 minutes.
Guessing this head is cracked somewhere, I have heard these are more prone to cracking than earlier 2F heads were. Find it strange that my head gasket would blow, head would crack and the radiator split open all within a couple minutes of each other. Don't know why I seem to have the worst luck with Toyota engines.
Back in the 90s I managed to crack another another head with very similar symptoms, that engine was a 76 2F that had a shaved F head installed. Took a bit to diagnose, found exhaust in the coolant and at the time I just replaced the head to fix it.
This time around I have an 87 2F in the same FJ40. It has flat top pistons, rings and valves seal well, head gasket is new and I know I torqued it correctly, no water in the oil or vice versa. As soon as I get some time I'm going to pull the plugs and check for moisture then do a compression test.
Wondering what my next step is. Doubt heads can be repaired so it seems I need to find another yet again. Later 2F heads seem to be hard to find and expensive, are they my only option? Is it possible to swap an earlier 2F or possibly a later F head onto my 87 block? Appreciate any insight,
was truly hoping to get this 'ol 40 back on the road soon. Searched but can find only limited information on this topic. Thanks!!!
