Curious how difficult it was removing old steering box and installing rebuilt unit? I need to do this on my ‘78. Thanks. Tom
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (44 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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77mustard40
SILVER Star
Just finished rebuilding the mini-truck box in my 77… it’s a very similar box. Remove the DS fender for access and the box can be unbolted from the pedestal after removing the drag link and pitman arm. The rebuild kit is still available from Toyota and includes all o-rings and Teflon rings, seals and snap rings. There are a couple good threads here to help you along. I chose this route after getting a rebuild quote from Redhead Gears. A little trial and error but it’s done, tighter and drip free.
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More scrubbing and wire wheeling.
Wiped down twice with wax and grease remover, 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Genesis coating.
Will spin around on Monday and strip inner floor and firewall and prep for 309 Freeborn red color match Genesis coating.
Jason
Wiped down twice with wax and grease remover, 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Genesis coating.
Will spin around on Monday and strip inner floor and firewall and prep for 309 Freeborn red color match Genesis coating.
Jason
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fyton2v
SILVER Star
Finally added a DIE seat extension kit to the truck. Er... I mean DIY seat extension. This is a long overdue mod. I think I'll be repainting all the black interior bits over the summer so I just left it bare metal for now.
Installed a reduction starter on my 55 and got all the lights working on the 40
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
Not difficult at all. I left the fender on and removed/installed the box from underneath. I have headers, so I'm not sure of the clearance for a stock exhaust manifold.
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Same here!
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
Spent the afternoon working through the engine bay wiring harness. Cutting out old hacked up switches and cleaning up some sketchy wiring. Crossed a mile stone at the end. First time start with the key. No more hot-wiring it get it started. I also got the front lights working.
It only took seven fuses for me to chase down a faulty ground.
I am learning a ton about how to read wiring schematics!
It only took seven fuses for me to chase down a faulty ground.
I am learning a ton about how to read wiring schematics!
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DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Funny story, my youngest was about that age when I slapped a new antenna on my 40 and proceeded to wash it in the drive with my little helper. She set her sights on washing the DS window, grabbed the new antenna to get up to the side step and this is what I was left with. The antenna is still there some 30 years later and always will be…
FJ40Savvy
SILVER Star
Update:
Completed installation of new body mounts. I need to get some longer bolts for the running board mounts. I purchased 1" bolts and they worked. The bolts in the kit are not long enough, they are only 3/4". It took about 6 hours by the time I finished.
The original mounts were rock hard. The replacement should make a difference however I'm sure Louie will still ride like a tractor.
I had issues removing the rear sill mounts. The bolts were rusted and needed to be cut in order to remove the mounts. The oscillating saw worked great.
I had all the old mounts loosened and did one side at a time. I used a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 along the length of the tub to lift it off the existing body mounts. Sorry no picture. Make sure you disconnect the fenders from the tub before you do the lift. The kit bolts are short for some locations so the tub needs to be lowered back down after the new mounts are installed in order for them to engage in the nut plates. I used anti-seize when I installed the body mount bolts.
Overall very pleased with the kit however there are a couple things that don't work with the kit or were installation challenges.
Now time to put the feet up and relax.
Completed installation of new body mounts. I need to get some longer bolts for the running board mounts. I purchased 1" bolts and they worked. The bolts in the kit are not long enough, they are only 3/4". It took about 6 hours by the time I finished.
The original mounts were rock hard. The replacement should make a difference however I'm sure Louie will still ride like a tractor.
I had issues removing the rear sill mounts. The bolts were rusted and needed to be cut in order to remove the mounts. The oscillating saw worked great.
I had all the old mounts loosened and did one side at a time. I used a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 along the length of the tub to lift it off the existing body mounts. Sorry no picture. Make sure you disconnect the fenders from the tub before you do the lift. The kit bolts are short for some locations so the tub needs to be lowered back down after the new mounts are installed in order for them to engage in the nut plates. I used anti-seize when I installed the body mount bolts.
Overall very pleased with the kit however there are a couple things that don't work with the kit or were installation challenges.
- The push pins are too small. Try and keep the original metal clips if you can.
- The bolts for the running board mounts are too short. 1" bolts work.
- It would be helpful if you have a second person for the mounts that bolt through the interior. I had to get creative to hold the bolt fastener in place.
- Wish the fasteners were metric.
Now time to put the feet up and relax.
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Skreddy
SILVER Star
When it’s near or below freezing, my ignition switch doesn’t return from start and I have to manually move it back to run. Pulled it out today and sprayed a ton of quick evaporating electrical cleaner in the hole while working it through all the positions and scotch brited the contacts.
1 cleaned…
1 cleaned…
Child labor laws!!!! How much did you may her?
Looks like she needed it more than the FJ did!
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
If she is like my kids, she probably accepts M&Ms as payment.Child labor laws!!!! How much did you may her?
Looks like she needed it more than the FJ did!
You definitely need to pay her well, and a big tip!
Chased down my carburetor adjustment problem
Weber 38 DGAS on 74 1.5F with headers and an HEI lightning strike.
Could NOT get this adjusted...
It was running rich... installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator which i had not done upon install and set it to 2.5lbs.
I had jetted it for sea level when i arrived in Florida from Colorado, but when i checked the choke side idle, it was loose when set into screw. I pried the opening until it fit snugly.
Once i found that flaw, i could set timing and adjust idle mixture. It would not adjust before as it was dumping excess fuel on choke side idle.
My timing light died out, but i think i have it around 10• -12• advanced.
No ping, no run-on.
I installed new NGK plugs gapped at .040 for that distributor.
I'm still burning oil, but man she is running smooth and strong
.
I think my 7-9 lbs out of stock mechanical pump was overwhelming the float AND enough pressure to push out that choke side jet. Dumping fuel.
Now i could use some advice on how to mount that fuel pressure reg...
See pics
I "strapped" it out of the way with whatever i had on hand. I see that i could bolt a bracket of some kind into the manifold below the carb??? I could use a piece of old muffler hanger i have but i still need to fix the regulator to it somehow??? Without linking the hose, without dropping hose or fuel onto the exhaust...
Weber 38 DGAS on 74 1.5F with headers and an HEI lightning strike.
Could NOT get this adjusted...
It was running rich... installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator which i had not done upon install and set it to 2.5lbs.
I had jetted it for sea level when i arrived in Florida from Colorado, but when i checked the choke side idle, it was loose when set into screw. I pried the opening until it fit snugly.
Once i found that flaw, i could set timing and adjust idle mixture. It would not adjust before as it was dumping excess fuel on choke side idle.
My timing light died out, but i think i have it around 10• -12• advanced.
No ping, no run-on.
I installed new NGK plugs gapped at .040 for that distributor.
I'm still burning oil, but man she is running smooth and strong
. I think my 7-9 lbs out of stock mechanical pump was overwhelming the float AND enough pressure to push out that choke side jet. Dumping fuel.
Now i could use some advice on how to mount that fuel pressure reg...
See pics
I "strapped" it out of the way with whatever i had on hand. I see that i could bolt a bracket of some kind into the manifold below the carb??? I could use a piece of old muffler hanger i have but i still need to fix the regulator to it somehow??? Without linking the hose, without dropping hose or fuel onto the exhaust...
How about switching the hoses to the regulator. Move the regulator to the front of the engine and shorten the long hose to the carb. Without the weight of the regulator close to the carb and shorter long hose you might not need any brackets at all.
