What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (24 Viewers)

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@mattressking Mind sharing the source for the bullet style electrical connectors you used here?

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@mattressking Mind sharing the source for the bullet style electrical connectors you used here?

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Those are leftovers from cycle terminal - had a bunch when I used to wire up motorcycles. Once I'm out of them, I'm ordering Yazaki stuff since it matches the factory sheaths. Eastern Beaver is a good resource for it, haven't looked around in a while to see who else sells Yazaki by the bulk.
 
Took the oil pump for a spin on an old straight 6 that is currently employed for landscape bollard. Oil filter is off, and with only a 12V NiCad cordless it is allowing me to replace the MMO in the case with regular dino 30wt. MMO isn't what I want to store it with, long-term, and I don't want to pick it up to get to the drain plug. I'll install a fresh Toyota 1/2-pint oil filter that got accidentally dented in the mail.

As soon as I get fresh oil installed in it, and the oil pressure up, I'll take the crank for a spin with a wrench. Then cover it with a kinda fresh folded 5x7 tarp, and a sacrificial 4x6' tarp-shell that is tied thru grommets, and then I'll check the tarps later in the winter.
 
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Took the oil pump for a spin on an old straight 6 that is currently employed for landscape bollard. Oil filter is off, and with only a 12V NiCad cordless it is allowing me to replace the MMO in the case with regular dino 30wt. MMO isn't what I want to store it with, long-term, and I don't want to pick it up to get to the drain plug. I'll install a fresh Toyota 1/2-pint that got accidentally dented in the mail.

As soon as I get fresh oil installed in it, I'll take the crank for a spin with a wrench. Then cover it with a kinda fresh folded 5x7 tarp, and a sacrificial 4x6' tarp-shell that is tied thru grommets, and then I'll check the tarps later in the winter.
Why don't you want to store it with the Marvel in it?
 
Because oil has a better reputation than Marvel. Marvel might clean it out a bit too good, and I don't want big particulate in small passages. It was like the dipstick was immersed in acid - it came out too clean. I'm just keeping up with what I consider regular maintenance, and these things work so well with just oil. Regular fluid check or change for unused gearboxes too.
 
After I reinstall the spark plugs, which were removed to make the crank turn with only a 3/8"-Pittsburgh-ratchet, I replaced the hole in the block, where the distributor was, with an old shackle plate so that the mice don't get in. The carb and ignition don't stay outside, no matter how bad I might think they really are. Duct tape over the exhaust and intake on the head - keeps the mice out, because engines are horrible to maintain around bird feeders. I'll do a full oil change when I get the crane out, or I'll just keep manually turning the oil pump with the filter off.

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After I reinstall the spark plugs, which were removed to make the crank turn with only a 3/8"-Pittsburgh-ratchet, I replaced the hole in the block, where the distributor was, with an old shackle plate so that the mice don't get in. The carb and ignition don't stay outside, no matter how bad I might think they really are. Duct tape over the exhaust and intake on the head - keeps the mice out, because engines are horrible to maintain around bird feeders. I'll do a full oil change when I get the crane out, or I'll just keep manually turning the oil pump with the filter off.

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You might consider backing off the rocker arms so the valves are all closed to seal the cylders and it relieves the pressure on the valve springs.
 
You might consider backing off the rocker arms so the valves are all closed to seal the cylders and it relieves the pressure on the valve springs.
Just trying to keep up with the one that is on the road / spinning. I should have used my old-time oiler to put a coat on top of the pistons when the plugs were out. These things will 'last forever' (outlast me), if you keep up with them. Which reminds me, check the PVC for wasps, and maybe use a loose fitting bolt screw to keep stuff from entering that passage as well.

Ideally, I want to vent the combustion chambers. When the soil beneath the engine is wet, vapor is trapped under the tarps - the cold metal allows the vapor to condense. It probably is the same, even if the engine was on the frame, just much less because of the design of the hood. It gets bad when an accidental fold of the tarp makes a pocket of water loaded with mosquito larvae. This summer was bad, as you could see all the fresh .79c HarborFreight steel wire toothbrush detail work that I did in the spring flash-rust quite a bit.

With the straight 6 that does run, quite a bit of vapor collects at the PCV valve. That part is cold, and the blow-by is vapor rich because my rings and bores are tired. I should go to the auto store, and use some exhaust-wrap to make an insulating sock for that area of the side cover panel and PCV valve tube. Fortunately, I don't have oil entering back into the intake. Pull the PCV valve after the temp drops below 20F, and if you have foam there, consider an oil change more than once a year.
 
I feel like I've seen you driving your truck around the Plains maybe near the Rail Stop?
I was out there about 2 weeks ago. There is another 40 identical to mine about 3 miles out of town. He was out the same night I was, but didn't get a chance to talk shop with him.
 

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