What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (35 Viewers)
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thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Finally mounted up the spare on the 64.
Also got a new OEM latch and threw that on. In the pics you can see my mounting technique for the spare. I use a 2 inch spacer to give plenty of clearance for the 33 x 10.50 bfg all terrain.
The bottom latch juuuust clears the tire.
Also got a new OEM latch and threw that on. In the pics you can see my mounting technique for the spare. I use a 2 inch spacer to give plenty of clearance for the 33 x 10.50 bfg all terrain.
The bottom latch juuuust clears the tire.
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
I had to do the same thing on my '76.
When I rebuilt my front axle I went with Longfield mini truck birfs (shorter) so I could upgrade from Warn to Aisin hubs.
Here's a few pics of the difference:
Brian/99uzj100
SILVER Star
Busy day...just got back from the powder coater.
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I think you removed alot more than just the hub lol....great job!
Since these are 60 series knuckles what is the correct torque value on these spindle nuuutz? Ive searched some say 25 ft/lbs and some say 31 ft/lbs
Iirc 31 is for an 80 series?
Edit : Got it 34 ft./lbs.
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4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Continued cleaning and prepping the drum parking brake split transfer case to go behind the H41 for my '71 FJ40 build. Today I tackled the transfer case vent. Thought I'd try pulling the pressed in stock vent so I looked at assembling a temporary tool. I pried off the sheet metal vent cap and noticed the hole looked like it could be easily tapped for a 6mm bolt, a few minutes later and it was done. I picked through my stash of non-Toyota metric bolts and found a longer one that I could thread all of the way through. I then picked through the assorted spacers and plate washers and found a spacer and washer that would give me a large surface area to pry against. Threaded everything together and used a flat pry bar to pop it out. A trip to the local hardware store for an elbow, and finally found something that would work. The PEX elbow has barb-type ribs on it, but I had to file down the OD of the outermost rib (inside the case) to get it to just press through the smaller ID inside the case. I smeared on a little Three Bond gasket maker around the perimeter at the outside of the case before pushing it in. I may have to go back and figure out how to make it fit a little more snug, maybe a small O-ring. The hardware store also had a thin wall brass tube the the same OD as the stock vent (15/32") and about the same ID as the ribs on the elbow, should make a nice, snug fit.
Now I just have to find the proper diameter hose and it'll be ready for when I get to installing the drivetrain later this year (I hope).
Now I just have to find the proper diameter hose and it'll be ready for when I get to installing the drivetrain later this year (I hope).
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How do you get the case that clean?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
That's the inside of the case, the other side - not so clean. Still working on cleaning the outside.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I haven't been fishing in a few days, I might change that soon.
samatulich
SILVER Star
Drove it. Put 3K miles on it over several days. Went from Olympia, WA through British Columbia, cut across the Yukon Territory, crossed into Alaska, headed for Eagle River, AK and then on down to the Kenai Peninsula. Changed the spark plugs, fuel pump and fixed the parking brake along the way.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
The FJ40 looks right at home up there!
Thats Awesome i would live to read a whole thread on that trip! hint hint
David70FJ40
Older Than Most
Just tried to start it. Fired up and ran until it died. Tried again and it was running so rich it couldn't burn all the gas. Removed the air cleaner and the shelf of the Holly 2 bbl behind the venturis was soaked with gas. Turned the key and the gas flowed out of the vent. Removed the bowl and checked the float, looked and acted normal, didn't weigh enough to be full of gas. Reinstalled the bowl and tried again but the engine acted like it was locked. Pulled all the plugs and turned it over and the #5 and #6 cylinders were full of raw gas. Tried to start again but the gas was running out of the vent.
What could have happened to the carb so suddenly?
What could have happened to the carb so suddenly?
So the past few fill up's, I've noticed excessive pressure being released when the gas cap is removed. I've also noticed a strong smell of fuel in the cab while cruising. I decided to troubleshoot the fuel evaporation system. The rig is a stock 82 completely smogged.
Took things apart and used low pressure shop air to verify patency. Using the emissions manual made thing simple to find the issue. The charcoal canister as plugged on the tank side. Used the methods (shop air) found in the manual to clear the occlusion. I also used the Power Probe to actuate the purge valve verifying its functioning properly.
This rig has the fuel tank between the frame rails. This device has three vent lines (bottom) coming from the fuel tank and one vent line (upper right) going to the charcoal canister. This was the line I found to be occluded resulting in over pressurization and foul smell.
With the problem identified, the fuel tank end was put back together and the charcoal canister removed and purged with shop air until all four ports where flowing. The purge valve was benched checked and all sections of hoses replaced with fresh fuel line.
This is located under a curved panel behind the filler neck passengers side.
Canister purge valve and new fuel hose sections.
Replaced all the associated fuel lines and did an operational check. All is well with the old girl once again. She now has 156,xxx miles and running smooth.
Took things apart and used low pressure shop air to verify patency. Using the emissions manual made thing simple to find the issue. The charcoal canister as plugged on the tank side. Used the methods (shop air) found in the manual to clear the occlusion. I also used the Power Probe to actuate the purge valve verifying its functioning properly.
This rig has the fuel tank between the frame rails. This device has three vent lines (bottom) coming from the fuel tank and one vent line (upper right) going to the charcoal canister. This was the line I found to be occluded resulting in over pressurization and foul smell.
With the problem identified, the fuel tank end was put back together and the charcoal canister removed and purged with shop air until all four ports where flowing. The purge valve was benched checked and all sections of hoses replaced with fresh fuel line.
This is located under a curved panel behind the filler neck passengers side.
Canister purge valve and new fuel hose sections.
Replaced all the associated fuel lines and did an operational check. All is well with the old girl once again. She now has 156,xxx miles and running smooth.
John in Utah
SILVER Star
You might be my hero
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