What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (36 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

QUESTION: After installing LED Headlights on the 40, the little clips that secure the headlight stone guards don't fit. The LED headlights stick out just a little bit more than the old sealed beam style.

For those of us who prefer running the stone guards on headlamps, Any tips or recommendations on what to use post LED conversion?
I used to run them on my stock headlamps but the mesh is very visible in the projected light on my JW Speakers so I went without them. @Aloha Jen had the same problem. And, yes they did not fit well with the new light either. I do like them though.
 
I used to run them on my stock headlamps but the mesh is very visible in the projected light on my JW Speakers so I went without them. @Aloha Jen had the same problem. And, yes they did not fit well with the new light either. I do like them though.
My rock guards were able to fit with some creativity, but the ridiculous shadowing made them impossible to use with the new LED headlights. It might not bother some, but it made me dizzy driving with them like that!
F63D69E9-5772-427F-9BD5-1338C741CB86.jpeg
 
QUESTION: After installing LED Headlights on the 40, the little clips that secure the headlight stone guards don't fit. The LED headlights stick out just a little bit more than the old sealed beam style.

For those of us who prefer running the stone guards on headlamps, Any tips or recommendations on what to use post LED conversion?


I used 5 washers on each clip to move them out towards the headlight. Seemed to be just about right, still have plenty of thread left. I hope I don't have that shadowing effect.....
 
Goodie box from cityracer...

Such a good vendor. Great prices and super fast shipping.

20180514_172326.jpg
 
You guys and gals should just discard those silly stone guards. They are so 1980s.

They should go very nicely with the striping on your 40 Jack! :rolleyes:
 
its still early in the week, but im knocking out several small tasks. Now that the AC is working, I was finally able to install some parts I have been accumulating.
1- 3D printed Center console cup holder and ashtray installed complete with two USB ports
2- Jack and Jack handles restored and finally installed. Found the correct mounting clips from Cruiser Parts.
3- Installed my hood latch and air intake scoop and hose.
4- and finally got the carb cooling fan working. After tracing all the wiring, cleaning all the contacts on each connector and pulling the relays under the dash (royal PITA)...I discovered it was a blown fuse all along (also hidden under the dash in an impossible location to access.

L1004670 2.jpg


L1020532 2.JPG


L1020534 2.JPG


L1020537 2.JPG


IMG_3811.JPG
 
To stick with the thread.....I took my Cruiser out for a spin in the desert and visited this old stone buildingView attachment 1701443
I was working on my 40 one day and a guy drove by and asked if I wanted to buy a 45 like yours. Said it overheated and the head warped but everything else was good. He wanted $2k but I didn't have anywhere to store it at the time.:frown:
 
1526425633604-1445183093.jpg
Just wanted new battery and cables ,now we are going down the road of "well while your in there".
Removing battery mount to fender bracket for refurb,new fuel lines and need to order new battery tray.
 
Big week for the Cluster truck!

Fired up the new 350 for break-in, and hoping I didn’t break it in the process (first time breaking in a flat-tappet cam).

Installed bucket seat:

988FFDE1-05BF-4F31-AF2A-478763B20748.jpeg


Primed and rotated the engine by hand a few times, the fired it up. The engine held about 60PSI as I varried RPM’s between 2-3000.

C176A17C-E6CB-4BCA-8A40-FEDDAE412D76.jpeg


Temperature stayed at or below 190

E716FBBD-A8F0-4170-A0D2-891739ED4FD3.jpeg


I drained the oil from the first 30min break in run today - I found some metal in the filter but it didn’t seem like a TON - I’m hoping this is normal “break-in” fragments. I haven’t tried idling it down yet to see if I wiped out a lobe.

23667DE4-2978-410E-8AAD-4C4B4804D6C7.jpeg


I certainly hope not! It’s nice and clean - I’d hate to have to pull it..

C485FECC-8735-43D0-A20B-65B0B2D5F9E6.jpeg
 
Finally replaced this fiddly bit! Some of the old circuits would jiggle loose and I would have reach down and rejiggle until the connection came back. Works like a dream now!

Nice...I just added this to my list. I need to add a few additional fuses, do they make a larger version?
The PO added a few of these taps...which only make it more fiddly.

fuse tap.jpg
 
Big week for the Cluster truck!

Fired up the new 350 for break-in, and hoping I didn’t break it in the process (first time breaking in a flat-tappet cam).

Installed bucket seat:


Primed and rotated the engine by hand a few times, the fired it up. The engine held about 60PSI as I varried RPM’s between 2-3000.


Temperature stayed at or below 190


I drained the oil from the first 30min break in run today - I found some metal in the filter but it didn’t seem like a TON - I’m hoping this is normal “break-in” fragments. I haven’t tried idling it down yet to see if I wiped out a lobe.


I certainly hope not! It’s nice and clean - I’d hate to have to pull it..
I think you're ok. If you wiped out a lobe on the cam you'd have tons of grey powder metal all over. A few small bits like that in the filter are just the reason you have a filter and change the oil after the break in.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom