Building the Lucky Dog (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 3, 2015
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193
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Loving it in Las Cruces
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This all started as a conversation with the other half and then it took a very cool but strange turn. After all of the hot rodding, roller cams, blowers, and go fast goodies I've been in to over the years, she wants me to build an FJ40 for her.:doh::D

Of course a few 'upgrades' are part of the equation:
Modern driveline
4 wheel power disc brakes
Power steering
Automatic trans
Air conditioning
Comfy seats (something along the lines of whats in a C7)
Probably a bunch of other stuff as this project develops.

Thanks to the help of a friend (BadSamaritan) we located a surprisingly rust and rot free 1964 FJ40 that supposedly ran and had brakes. No steering though since the steering wheel splines were worn out of the steering wheel adapter.
Turns out the brake pedal went straight to the floor:skull:

Anyhow, I had planned to tow it home and that's what we did. That part of the journey was uneventful one we let all of the air out of the front tires so that we could get the straps over the tires and get it all locked down. Here's 3 pix of getting ready to roll to it's new home. 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
 
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Well, I was trying to add more photos of the blow by blow for getting the project FJ40 home and apart. At some point I'll figure it out and get the last 6 weeks or so added in since it's already up to first check fit with the 5.3 & 6l80E.
 
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Day 2. How to get a non running, non steering, no brakes FJ up the driveway and into the garage. A combination of wheel dollies, tow strap, and a couple of vehicles as pullers and pick points. It took a few repositionings but it worked.
 
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Poor little FJ is being attacked from all sides with wrench, ratchets, and screwdrivers. Interesting color underneath the current tan color. At least the orange appears to have been done correctly.
The toolbox under the front seat appears to be missing all of the typical rust and swiss cheese rot. Bummer, no panel repairs needed here :bounce:
 
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Love the V8 and auto! I also love early stockers. A stock colour would be cool. And interior. Pics when the 8 is in please :beer:
 
With the frame separated from the body, it's finally time to take a good look at what's there.
First up is this stray piece of angle iron welded in.
Second pic, it's cut out.
Third, getting down to frame.
Fourth, nice weld job they did, blew a hole in the tube.
Fifth, hole fixed.
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Time travel forward about another week.
Pic 1, getting some new goodies (5.3 & 6L80E)
Pic 2, Putting Ol' Blue to work
Pic 3, Getting the frame stripped down
Pic 4, another look at the frame
Pic 5, First fit check for the disc brake bracket
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Test fit of the rear disk brake brackets. I'm lees that impressed by the fit. Caliper is so off center that pads won't even fit. I'll mill the 3mm off to clear the step in the axle housing instead of using the spacers to clear as that will move thing outboard by 3mm. This will center the caliper over the disc - as it should be.

Next 3 are the gas tank initial check fit. It'll need some mods too before all is said and done.
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Pic 1 - Slapped some spacers together and tacked them to the frame to raise the front of the engine. I think I'm pretty close to where it needs to be.
Pic 2 - About 3" between radiator and engine. I'd like to move it forward more but I think I'm at the minimum space to get a fan and shroud together and still allow the air to go somewhere.
Pic 3 - Still need to drop the rear of the assembly about another inch. It looks like I'll need to notch the crossmember in a couple of places and weld in some 3/16 plate reinforcements.
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Lowered the tub back down onto the frame. Plenty of firewall clearance, but the rear crossmember (propeller) hits the tub. Of course that end hasn't been lowered the additional inch I was planning but I'll still need to trim the 'propeller'.

Also started in on plugging some of the extra holes in the firewall too.
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As of a couple of days ago, I finally nailed down the location for the PS pump. It's more involved than just welding the adapter plate on but the pitman arm will travel parallel to the front axle so there won't be a bunch of extra angle changes as the pitman arm moves.
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