What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (17 Viewers)

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hey guys, i need some help here, i have two factory cable lockers in 60 series axles. now i want to swap the diff centers into the 40 axles. to do this i will need to clearance the inside of the 40 housing for the actuator. this is fine, i can do that easily. however, i found out that the 60 housing had two longer studs that go through the locker actuator. the 40 housing has the two standard studs in this location. is there any ideas of how i can overcome this? would love some help. pictures attached. cheers guys

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hey guys, i need some help here, i have two factory cable lockers in 60 series axles. now i want to swap the diff centers into the 40 axles. to do this i will need to clearance the inside of the 40 housing for the actuator. this is fine, i can do that easily. however, i found out that the 60 housing had two longer studs that go through the locker actuator. the 40 housing has the two standard studs in this location. is there any ideas of how i can overcome this? would love some help. pictures attached. cheers guys

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if you have the two longer ones already, why not just remove the standard ones and put the longer ones in?

you can use 2 nuts on the stud, tighten them against each other and then back them both out, bringing the stud out with em
 
if you have the two longer ones already, why not just remove the standard ones and put the longer ones in?

you can use 2 nuts on the stud, tighten them against each other and then back them both out, bringing the stud out with em
doh, should have known, done the same thing to exhaust manifold studs. cheers budy.
 
That'll be too much trouble, I'll save you the hassle... I'll ship you two regular difs in exchange for those overly complicated ones... 3.70 or 4.10?

I'll even pay shipping both ways since I'm a good guy ;)
 
Tried to knock that leaf off. I'm new to this editing thing.:hillbilly: Oh well. Beautiful rig you got there Doc.

Couldn't find a thumbs up so you get a :D.

Great looking rig!!

Appreciate that. A :happy: for you.

Stopping there. Cannot give everyone their own eemojie for saying nice things!

Tires -- probably a bit. Have not taken the time to take a few psi out but not driving too far from home yet. . . steering (non power) sure is easy though!
 
@4x4veteran I was wondering if and how that stuff worked. Let me know if it works and what brand you used. Thanks.
 
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Update, my transmission/transfer case that Georg rebuilt for me came into Dajda's Shop today:clap:. I wasn't able to get to Dajda's before they closed, huge bummer:crybaby:. Have to work Friday-Sunday, so the tranny/transfer will have to wait until Monday. In the mean time, I began tearing everything down to replace the rear main, pilot and throwout bearings. Unlike other horror stories about oil pan not wanting to come off, my experience was the exact opposite. Took all the bolts off and went to put the wrench down and the pan came down and busted me in the melon, OUCH! Damn the pan is heavy, all is good though:D.
 
This week I cleaned up almost all the crap wiring hanging around that engine looks so much cleaner already. Most wires were just electrical taped together.

Threw a lot of wire away. I'm trying to get away from butt connectors and multi pieces of wire

Instead of a toggle for my fan I installed maradyne water neck adapter and a thermo switch ...
( I love and hate electrical..i love it cause it's like a puzzle. I hate it cause the simple stuff shouldn't be like a puzzle LOL)

Put on a new powermaster alternator and 1/0 gauge cable... copper lugs. Put on my mini high torque starter again with new heat blanket.

Optima yellow top placed in the blue torch fab dual batt box and red top I'm getting next week.

Wired up a New blue sea auxilary fuse block (with negative bus)

6-30A relays wired up electric pump, electric fan, msd 6al.

Installed a new 100 micron filter by tank and and put the 40 micron up closer to front engine bay

Cleaned up all aircraft lines and an fittings

Purchased and recut to specs all my wiring I needed with soldering and shrink tube.

Put high amp fuse in place of ammeter gauge.

Cleaned up a mess of wires behind gauge cluster... I seriously have no clue why there are so many cut wires hanging behind it

Next week the voltmeter comes out to verify all fuse block connections are correct

Have to build a blinker system.. PO out in a north west metal products tank with slid plate and smashed all the wiring between plate and the rear support when installing a electrical tow connector. So I will be rebuilding wiring.

Did more but no pics yet

Oh yes the best part.. ace hardware was wonders for helping me put together a roof rack tire carrier for less than 10 bucks, I pick up a 6 inch round steel plate from a welder who worked across the street from me. Then no more tire on my carrier.. tire is a 35" and I'm not comfortable with that hanging on through bolts through the body panel
 
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After I put the heat shielding in I belatedly started thinking about flammability. So here are some tests I did on some scrap pieces. The first picture inside red circle is a small butane torch held about an inch away from the material for about five seconds. It smoked a lot and the lower edge flamed but died downs as soon as the torch flame was removed. The spot to the right of the red circle is a heat gun set on high held a quarter inch from material for 30+ seconds. Smoke and glowing ember. The glow died as soon as heat was removed but smoked for couple seconds more.
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Picture two is torch held with in an inch of the material for about half a minute. Smoke but no flame.
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The last picture is a flame held to the edge of a small piece. It caught fire in a couple seconds and burned while flame was held to it but slowly died down as soon as flame was removed.
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In every test there was acrid smoke like most plastics do. I guess I will leave the stuff in place on the assumption that if something gets it hot enough to burn I have other more important problems. It is supposed to get up to 80 degrees today so I will take a drive and see if there is a noticeable difference.
 

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