What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (29 Viewers)

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After the 100th close call during the frequent snow/rain storms out here, I decided to install rear fog light. I bought the OEM stalk and was going to do a bunch of custom wiring until I heard a relay click in the dash after installing the new stalk. After some messing around and testing, I realized the truck was already prewired all the way to the rear for the fog lights. The only thing missing was the wires from the rear sonar harness and the fog lights themselves. So I ordered those 2 and installed everything. It all works as it should now.

The next step is testing to see if the bulb is installed in the cluster. Going to look at the FSM diagrams and see if grounding pin 9 on the E2 connector is the correct method for the US LX.

The camera did not capture how bright they really are.

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This is the connector for the rear sonar harness (where Frame #2 harness connects), the bottom 3 wires are for the sonar system and the top 2 are the positive and negative for the fog lights. I'm assuming if you have those top 2 wires, then your truck is prewired too.
This is deserving of its own write thread (unless one already exists).
 
Started this nightmare.

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Impromptu LX meet up at the ol' bunny hill. I kinda dig that burgundy color.

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This is deserving of its own write thread (unless one already exists).
After finding the part number for the stalk, then i started finding the previous MUD threads.

This first link goes as far as to show you how to get the combimeter to light up. (Spoiler it's not easy, but possible.) I definitely think the easiest way is to use your own switch and wiring, especially if you already have some sort of dash relay switch system like Switchpros. Although, if you could do the OEM stalk and repin the connector and just add bulbs/sockets to existing. That would have you all in for probably $150 and you wouldn't have to use up a Switchpros spot or run wiring from front to rear of vehicle. Considering the cost of some of those switching options, it's something like $80 per switch on a Switchpros.




 
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After finding the part number for the stalk, then i started finding the previous MUD threads.

This first link goes as far as to show you how to get the combimeter to light up. (Spoiler it's not easy, but possible.) I definitely think the easiest way is to use your own switch and wiring, especially if you already have some sort of dash relay switch system like Switchpros. Although, if you could do the OEM stalk and repin the connector and just add bulbs/sockets to existing. That would have you all in for probably $150 and you wouldn't have to use up a Switchpros spot or run wiring from front to rear of vehicle. Considering the cost of some of those switching options, it's something like $80 per switch on a Switchpros.




Sorry for the late reply, been dealing with these mystery wires in my truck.

Yup those are all the threads I referenced, I agree that using your own switch and running your own wiring back to the lights with a simple relay is the easiest way of doing this. I haven't been able to get the light in my dash to work, the outline is there but the LED bulb probably isn't installed (which then begs the question of why did they install all the extra wiring/relays but not the 1 cent LED). Buying the OEM stalk is nice if the truck is wired because it runs the fogs exactly like they should, only with headlights and front fogs on. You can also use your existing reflector housing, just dremel the bulb opening and run wires from the harness connector to the bulb plugs.

Here are all the part numbers I used. I bought everything through Amayama and probably paid too much just to make it look OEM:

(Euro LHD stalk) 8414030311
(Bumper harness) 8216560270
(Fog LH) 8145660031
(Fog RH) 8145760021
(plug) 9007599080 x2
(bulb) 9098113043 x2
 
Begrudgingly replaced my armrest that has been broken for almost two years. I gave up trying to find a used one on eBay. $650 😱 but it’s now the nicest part of my whole truck.

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Begrudgingly replaced my armrest that has been broken for almost two years. I gave up trying to find a used one on eBay. $650 😱 but it’s now the nicest part of my whole truck.

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Get a new steering wheel now and it will feel like you just bought a brand new truck
 
Hello everybody ;)

It hasn’t been a week, exactly but I’ve just collected my car from the wrapper last night and put on the new tyres today.

- satin wrap, dual colour
- alloys renovated and powder coated in satin black
- rear “LC” decor, rear logo and hubcaps painted satin black
- new tyres: Radar Renegade 285/65R18 RTs

What do you think? I’ve already have a little bullbar ordered, I’ll have a led bar on it. As we are in the EU everything added to your car must have a proper paper, otherwise you get fined… Heavily 🤷🏼‍♂️

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The hypothesis holds true - the more you play with it, the bigger it gets. Mild 3/4" body lift for the moment.

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I get partial credit thanks to @Bullgump :
  • Water pump
  • Alternator
  • Radiator
  • Thermostat
  • Coolant-line hoses
  • Fan clutch and pulley
  • Tensioner pulley
  • Idler pulley
  • Rear deflector
  • Seat gap organizer
  • Diode Dynamics Smart Tap
 
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I get partial credit thanks to @Bullgump :
  • Water pump
  • Alternator
  • Radiator
  • Thermostat
  • Coolant-line hoses
  • Fan clutch and pulley
  • Tensioner pulley
  • Idler pulley
  • Rear deflector
  • Seat gap organizer
  • Diode Dynamics Smart Tap
If you were losing coolant and didn’t see it anywhere it could be the valley plate leak. At 300k it would be likely it had already been done once, but not many 200s at 300k so you might be seeing it again.
 
If you were losing coolant and didn’t see it anywhere it could be the valley plate leak. At 300k it would be likely it had already been done once, but not many 200s at 300k so you might be seeing it again.

I did see coolant leaking from one of the heater hose tees which I’ve not seen from this tee until this issue began. I'm hoping this is the culprit.
 
I get partial credit thanks to @Bullgump :
  • Water pump
  • Alternator
  • Radiator
  • Thermostat
  • Coolant-line hoses
  • Fan clutch and pulley
  • Tensioner pulley
  • Idler pulley
  • Rear deflector
  • Seat gap organizer
  • Diode Dynamics Smart Tap
I finally have all the parts (and gallons of coolant) to do this radiator job this coming weekend. Any words of wisdom?
 
Ugh. Rear diff, front diff, TC fluid change. Used Valvoline 75w-90 for the diffs and Redline 75w for the TC. Also did a drain/fill on the transmission. Only 3 quarts drained. Used Toyota ATF WS. My plan is to drain/fill every 10k until I’ve gone through 12 quarts and then I’ll feel better about doing a complete flush.

All buttoned back up. My neck hurts.

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Ugh. Rear diff, front diff, TC fluid change. Used Valvoline 75w-90 for the diffs and Redline 75w for the TC. Also did a drain/fill on the transmission. Only 3 quarts drained. Used Toyota ATF WS. My plan is to drain/fill every 10k until I’ve gone through 12 quarts and then I’ll feel better about doing a complete flush.

All buttoned back up. My neck hurts.

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Love the A! Know you know why my nick is RT Cruiser :bounce2:
 
Oh nice! I was wondering what that was. I am the only Alabama fan for miles and miles in the mountains of NC.
Went to school there, born on the same month and day as the Bear, and use a lot of Saban's principles in my executive coaching practice. Having the red Cruiser is a huge bonus. RTR!
 

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