Got some goodies in the mail today. My AC drain line extension from @CruiserGarage and some mud swag
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Nice, is that from a vendor or did you make it?
That's my neck of the woods! Hiked all over up there, back in my dumbass days I use to take my subaru(which was lowered the first few times, does way better after it got a lift), never bounced my head off the roof of a vehicle more times anywhere else. It's an easy trail but honestly I hate some those sections with all the small rocks.Corona / Rollins Road to the Continental Divide around Winter Park, CO. Easy trail but still a fun way to kill some time.
Finished for now. CarPlay in my other cars have me spoiled. So needed an upgrade.
I had the same issues. I found that reaching up from under the vehicle worked best vs. coming in from the top. Even still, I couldn’t get it to seat right. There just wasn’t enough resistance from the hose nub for the 90 deg elbow to go in all the way. I eventually used some white lithium grease to get it to go in all the way.Installed the cruiser garage ac drain extension. I thought this was going to be a fairly easy task, but the factory drain pipe thought otherwise. I had a heck of a time trying to get the 90 degree elbow into the hose. Probably because of the heat cycle etc the diameter of the drain pipe shrunk just enough to make life a loving hell to put in that 90 degree elbow. Butt I managed to get it on albeit not as seated as I would like but it'll do for now.
I thought about lubing it up and should have done that. You're absolutely right, the nub gave way too much for you to be able to jam it on.I had the same issues. I found that reaching up from under the vehicle worked best vs. coming in from the top. Even still, I couldn’t get it to seat right. There just wasn’t enough resistance from the hose nub for the 90 deg elbow to go in all the way. I eventually used some white lithium grease to get it to go in all the way.
For the droop I did measure from the top of the cap to the fender.Generally the measurements are taken from hub center to fender edge- before & after. Most do it this way which makes it more consistent for others to reference/compare against- especially to measure droop.
Can you please post the light bar info?
16 AWG is fine for 20A. 200W/12V=16.6A
That's my neck of the woods! Hiked all over up there, back in my dumbass days I use to take my subaru(which was lowered the first few times, does way better after it got a lift), never bounced my head off the roof of a vehicle more times anywhere else. It's an easy trail but honestly I hate some those sections with all the small rocks.
I referenced NEC Table 310... This is very conservative and the best for boats and automotive due to the voltage drops.
After driving it around last night, I checked floor to fender measurement again this morning…Am I dreaming? Was lifting the front end and leveling out the Cruiser really this easy?
After picking up a 30mm socket from O’Reilly’s, I got to work. All adjustments made with both front wheels off the ground and supports under the frame. Tires were at ambient temperature and pressure was equalized before starting.
Before:
+ Driver's side was 34.5" floor to fender
+ Passenger side was 34.75"
After:
+ 5 1/4 turns on the driver's side and 4 turns on the passenger side netted 36" floor to fender on both sides, which is about the same as the rears or just under
+ Droop range was 76.2 mm which is more than the 55 mm minimum.
Did I do it right?
Alignment up next.
View attachment 2780507
Yes but not aluminum galvanized to reduce corrosion.I need to do this as well, getting lazy though. @LandCruiserPhil do you still sell the aluminum ones? If so let me know, I’d like to order a pair
Smooth move, yeah that road can be a warrior magnet. Cool history up there, with the railroad stuff but more so there's also ancient Ute hunting blinds all over those peaks.Yah, they are annoying. I aired down to smooth those sections out and keep my speed up. Was passing the weekend warriors that way in their F-150's.![]()