cheaper than a new transmission!
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (26 Viewers)
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cheaper than a new transmission!
It was the lock washer on the bearings, anyone know the part number?
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Axle popping out isn't necessarily correlated with the need for a bearing change or adjustment. If someone reused a tweaked snap ring or didn't check for spec (<.2mm between snap ring and hub flange), the snap rings can come out of their groove and allow the axle shaft to slip inward. Fix could be as simple as getting a new in-spec snap ring in place under the dust cover--about a four minute job if you've got a snap ring.
If NoVA's not too far out of your way, come on up--I've got snap rings in all thicknesses (thanks, Cruiser Outfitters).
Cleaned it in preparation for it's first showing to sell it. I'm quite sad I wont see it hit 300k.
Burned out one of the 55W H2 bulbs in my Hella Black Magic 1000 lights. Ordered 100W replacements after some google searches suggested that they wou.d drop in with no ill effect, but better illumination. Went back and looked at original invoice from Slee for the install and saw that they had used an upgrade light harness, which made me feel that it would carry the bigger draw without problem. Easy install and seems to be better output.
todd
todd
Finally got around to installing one of the closeout FT-8800s, that I had tucked in a closet about 4 years ago, into the old LX, in preparation for our not HiH trip to Silverton.
Used the @CruiserGarage "ScanGauge mount", and a @nakman antenna mount
Used the @CruiserGarage "ScanGauge mount", and a @nakman antenna mount
Not really, I've only had this vehicle ~6 months. The Yaesu and Gamiviti mount were "extras" I had squirreled away. When the 8800s went on closeout, I may have accidentally bought a few more than I actually needed.
Very nice pics! Seems like you missed the awning shade by that much!
Just to update everyone: it was a combination of re-using an old lock washer with no tooth for the groove and the groove and splines were very low on the cv axle. This allowed the bearings to become loose snap ring came off and axle slipped out of the flange hence the rpm jump. It was literally the best case scenario tho because I had a new cv axle sitting at home in the garage and had some one bring it down. I’m sure some here won’t like it but we looked and the bearings and there was no heat scoring or anything so we just repacked them but I had someone weld on a tooth for the lock washer. We took apart the passenger side too since I knew I re-used the lock washer on that side too. It was fine tho but plus I just put a new cv axle on that side. Ended up arriving at our campsite on the beach in SC at midnight but truck did great, I have IR temp gun and check the temp of the hub flange every 150 miles, never above 90 when seems average. Anyone’s the half million mile cruiser lives and am now sitting on the beach drinking mai tai and army navy’s and smoking rocky patels under my awning, it’s pretty good considering I’m furloughed from work from Covid. Long story short don’t save money on a two dollar part just replace it.
Got little minor things done....
- Installed new cover for the Foxwing awning. Old one cracked from UV.
- Installed a USB in place of the cigarette lighter and fixed the fusible link in the other.
- Installed a new antenna mast. Old one was bent
A lot of the of threads on here helped with the antenna and USB conversion
- Installed new cover for the Foxwing awning. Old one cracked from UV.
- Installed a USB in place of the cigarette lighter and fixed the fusible link in the other.
- Installed a new antenna mast. Old one was bent
A lot of the of threads on here helped with the antenna and USB conversion
Easy Saturday morning lead to curiosity and me to aligning the truck on my own using basic principles of geometry and measurement. I recently replaced my upper and lower ball joints together with the tie rods using Sankei 555 products and the steering rack bushing using polyurethane ones.
As I inspected and measured obvious components such as the tire for camber, I noticed the front passenger was at +0.4° the front driver was at -0.2°. So I went ahead lifted the front, loosened the UCA nut-bolt and rotated the camber tab bolt to create that angle similar to that of the driver side. Lowered the truck, measured again and voila front passenger is now reading -0.2° - same now as the front driver side.
But toe settings are now off (it’s evident and clearly noticeable that the front passenger has reasonable amount of TOE-IN. I used a nylon line off one of our fishing rods, tied it on two jack stands -one situated at the rear corner of the truck, and one at the front corner of the truck and started measuring distances from the wheel in respect to the nylon line -it had to equal on both front and rear part of a wheel. I adjusted the toe in/out thru the Tie Rods. Every turn of the tie rod I had to stand up and reset the steering wheel (turn it left-right and re-center it) so as to make sure wheel is indeed straight. Eventually I got both passenger and driver side all lined up and measured to the last millimeter. Now truck is aligned and is tracking straight. Total time spent doing this was around 2 hours. Local Lexus charges around $200 for this job with all the fancy computers and tool. You can do it too, just allocate a few hours and definitely achievable.
Some pictures for reference:
Once UCA camber bolt nuts are a little loose enough to rotate it, I just pushed the upper part of tire/wheel inward to create an angle that would offset +0.4° and make it closer to -0.2° (like the one on the passenger side).
Level reads now -0.2°
Nylon line now on setup and has considerable amount of tension.
As I turn the inner tie rod (clockwise or counter clockwise) I made sure to get up and go to the steering wheel and turn it left & right make sure to reset it back to center. Once that was done I now measure the front side is close or the same now to that or the rear side.
As I inspected and measured obvious components such as the tire for camber, I noticed the front passenger was at +0.4° the front driver was at -0.2°. So I went ahead lifted the front, loosened the UCA nut-bolt and rotated the camber tab bolt to create that angle similar to that of the driver side. Lowered the truck, measured again and voila front passenger is now reading -0.2° - same now as the front driver side.
But toe settings are now off (it’s evident and clearly noticeable that the front passenger has reasonable amount of TOE-IN. I used a nylon line off one of our fishing rods, tied it on two jack stands -one situated at the rear corner of the truck, and one at the front corner of the truck and started measuring distances from the wheel in respect to the nylon line -it had to equal on both front and rear part of a wheel. I adjusted the toe in/out thru the Tie Rods. Every turn of the tie rod I had to stand up and reset the steering wheel (turn it left-right and re-center it) so as to make sure wheel is indeed straight. Eventually I got both passenger and driver side all lined up and measured to the last millimeter. Now truck is aligned and is tracking straight. Total time spent doing this was around 2 hours. Local Lexus charges around $200 for this job with all the fancy computers and tool. You can do it too, just allocate a few hours and definitely achievable.
Some pictures for reference:
Once UCA camber bolt nuts are a little loose enough to rotate it, I just pushed the upper part of tire/wheel inward to create an angle that would offset +0.4° and make it closer to -0.2° (like the one on the passenger side).
Level reads now -0.2°
Nylon line now on setup and has considerable amount of tension.
As I turn the inner tie rod (clockwise or counter clockwise) I made sure to get up and go to the steering wheel and turn it left & right make sure to reset it back to center. Once that was done I now measure the front side is close or the same now to that or the rear side.
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Looks amazing!
Where in socal is that?
Also how did you mount the awning to your dissent rack? My rack will probably today
Thanks
DRLs now wired. Liking it a lot.
Installed DBA Kangaroo Paw Rotors and OE pads at all 4 corners, repacked front bearings, installed correct axle C-Clips from Cruiser Outfitters, and replaced hardware and bolts. It stops well, is quiet, and looks halfway cool. Let me know if anyone needs part numbers or has questions. I only took one picture during install!
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Threw the boy under the truck to do t-case and diff lube. Man gear oil stinks.
Finally put my MT4x4 sliders on. Install with AHC was still a breeze.
And mud flap deletes of course.
And mud flap deletes of course.
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