What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (20 Viewers)

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Good thought I may end up removing the linkage next time. If I ever have to pull the pan Id like to revert to dipstick type pan.

You want to remove only the rear bolt, since you need to be able to move the shifter to all positions and then let the engine idle to check the fluid level:

Take the linkage rear bolt off. Remove fill plug. Add WS fluid. Put back fill plug finger tight with rubber O-ring in place. Reconnect linkage bolt. Start engine. Move shifter through all positions. Let engine idle. Remove overflow drain. If you need to add fluid (likely), then repeat all steps, starting with the engine off, until you get a trickle from the overflow drain with WS temps between 97-114F. Tighten up everything at the end.

I think the dipstick assembly was part of the trans casing, not the pan. The parts that can be retrofitted are not easily available anymore, I think.

And if anyone thinks the linkage in the way of access is a bad idea, try not think about the hot exhaust pipe nearby, ready to flake off hot rust chips onto your head (and elsewhere), or just plain burn body parts. It is almost as if Toyota wants you to take it to the dealer. :D

PS: If you ever remove the pan, make sure you have a wobble extension for the back four bolts to be able to clear the cross-member. Keeping the new gasket in place while you get the pan back up is fun. I wonder why Toyota did not put in a locating pin or two to keep the gasket in place.

As I said before, it is almost as if Toyota wants you to take it to the dealer. :lol:
 
You want to remove only the rear bolt, since you need to be able to move the shifter to all positions and then let the engine idle to check the fluid level:

Take the linkage rear bolt off. Remove fill plug. Add WS fluid. Put back fill plug finger tight with rubber O-ring in place. Reconnect linkage bolt. Start engine. Move shifter through all positions. Let engine idle. Remove overflow drain. If you need to add fluid (likely), then repeat all steps, starting with the engine off, until you get a trickle from the overflow drain with WS temps between 97-114F. Tighten up everything at the end.

I think the dipstick assembly was part of the trans casing, not the pan. The parts that can be retrofitted are not easily available anymore, I think.

And if anyone thinks the linkage in the way of access is a bad idea, try not think about the hot exhaust pipe nearby, ready to flake off hot rust chips onto your head (and elsewhere), or just plain burn body parts. It is almost as if Toyota wants you to take it to the dealer. :D

PS: If you ever remove the pan, make sure you have a wobble extension for the back four bolts to be able to clear the cross-member. Keeping the new gasket in place while you get the pan back up is fun. I wonder why Toyota did not put in a locating pin or two to keep the gasket in place.

As I said before, it is almost as if Toyota wants you to take it to the dealer. :lol:

Thanks V- nice write up.

I made a remote fill kit and also have a high temp heat shield that I put on the exhaust so I don't burn my arm which helps a little but I know what you mean.

I went through the level check process last drain & fill; I filled to FSM spec. I did not do the level check this time, since I knew my starting volume was in spec I simply measured what came out replaced with the equal.

If I ever have to pull the trans pan, that sadly means my cross member (Slee belly skid) has to come off- not a fun job. That one weighs 100lbs on its own.
 
Installed spidertraxx 1.25" spacers yesterday. Bought from Slee.

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Rebuilt the passenger side inner cv axle after my buddy and I slightly tore the boot using the 'wood' method when we installed the reman's the first time. It was our fault as we misaligned the wood, but even with it setup correctly that method never worked for us. The first time we just pryed the crap out of it with pry bars.

A tip from me is buy a brass punch and use that on the lip of the axle. This time around the passenger side installed incredibly easy using that, with no damage to the lip.
 
New additions to my LC:

Electronics gear:

Kicker Hideaway 8" SUB
Garmin gpsmap 276cx with CITI and West Coast TOPO

Hardware:

White Knuckle Sliders
ARB Deluxe Bull Bar Front Bumper with Warn Zeon 12-S Winch
Baja Designs Squadron Sport Amber WC, w/ Bezel Kit used as fog lights on bull bar
Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform
Alu-Cab Expedition Series 3 Rooftop Tent with load bars and cold weather kit
Alu-Cab Shadow 270 awning


All hardware was bought and installed by Adventure Ready in Seattle. Highly recommend them!!

Cheers

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New additions to my LC:

Electronics gear:

Kicker Hideaway 8" SUB
Garmin gpsmap 276cx with CITI and West Coast TOPO

Hardware:

White Knuckle Sliders
ARB Deluxe Bull Bar Front Bumper with Warn Zeon 12-S Winch
Baja Designs Squadron Sport Amber WC, w/ Bezel Kit used as fog lights on bull bar
Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform
Alu-Cab Expedition Series 3 Rooftop Tent with load bars and cold weather kit
Alu-Cab Shadow 270 awning


All hardware was bought and installed by Adventure Ready in Seattle. Highly recommend them!!

Cheers

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Solid looking rig!
 
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New additions to my LC:

Electronics gear:

Kicker Hideaway 8" SUB
Garmin gpsmap 276cx with CITI and West Coast TOPO

Hardware:

White Knuckle Sliders
ARB Deluxe Bull Bar Front Bumper with Warn Zeon 12-S Winch
Baja Designs Squadron Sport Amber WC, w/ Bezel Kit used as fog lights on bull bar
Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform
Alu-Cab Expedition Series 3 Rooftop Tent with load bars and cold weather kit
Alu-Cab Shadow 270 awning


All hardware was bought and installed by Adventure Ready in Seattle. Highly recommend them!!

Cheers

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Nice who were you with in Division?
 
Finished up an electrical upgrade for my next trip.

Added a second battery and compressor on a Sled tray. Used a Victron charging relay to charge/seperate the batteries. Added a Blue Sea circuit breaker under the hood. Ran power to a fuse block under the shifter panel. Added 4 Blue Sea high amp usb chargers running full time (even with the truck off). One in the front dash, two in the second row seats, and replaced the 12volt outlet in the rear driver side by the tailgate. Added a second fuse panel that will power a small removable cabinet with the fridge, fan, charging outlet and two led lights (red and white) in the tailgate. There is also a Blue Sea battery switch 1/both/2. I can bypass the charging relay and combine the batteries if I need to jump start or use the winch.

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Finally did the axle seals with OE parts. Did the short way. Found the write up on here. About 4hrs. Sooner if my nosey neighbor didnt come by to be well nosey lol

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Almost done with baselining my 470. Fixed CEL and VSC lights. Ended up replacing O2 sensor because of grease build up.
 

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