What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (61 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Got busy and waxed 'er!
image.jpg
 
Just finished up my seat not moving back or forth because of 2 things .First I replaced the cap and sealed it shut . then I took the 2 screws off the plastic piece and took out the plastic gear inside that was worn down flat in the middle ,so it wasn't turning at all . Instead of spending 70.00 on a new part I took my small bur and drilled a hole a little smaller than the width of the gear that was left untouched on both sides plastic gear ,There is no need for a plastic gear ,It should have been metal. I cut 25 small stainless steel rods I use to make clasps around teeth to hold partials in the mouth with . I used the same size as the hole I cut . I put a small arch in the rods to raise them up in the middle so they would be at the same height as the ends that were untouched my the other gear bar that the white cap holds in place . Then I mixed up a runny mix of acrylic and surrounded the rods I had in place . Once the acrylic hardened I took my disk and cut in some groves all the way around . I could have just added acrylic with out the rods but I though it would make the repair last a lot longer . Here are some pictures .
Interesting fix.
 
Did a little morning shooting at Big Fork. Added Slee spring spacers last night to my OE ride height OME springs. Was a great morning.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1421599662.874620.jpg
 
Interesting fix.
Thanks Mr Cimarron, If this doesn't last then there must be a lot of pressure on the gears . If I have to fix it again I'm just going to build up the gears with wax to look like new gears and sprue and invest the burn out the plastic and cast it into metal so all the plastic will be metal . Once I do that it will last for ever. I'm a dental lab tech so I have every thing I need to make it metal .If it was my seat instead of the passenger side I would have just cast it into metal . If my side stops working I'll take some photos of it going from plastic to metal so you can see how I do it . This gear being made of plastic in my opinion is just plan stupid and a cheap way out of doing something right. I think the whole part should have been made of metal the housing and the gear . A plastic gear is nothing but a money maker for the parts department . If anyone has a old drives side or passenger side part that was replaced and you still have it would you message me I know its just a matter of time before my seat strips out and I would like to go ahead and cast it into metal and have it ready to replace. Thanks Steve
 
Last edited:
Keep in mind that its plastic for a reason. Its VERY likely that it was intended on being the "fuse" for the entire system. Non-metals would prevent it from binding and causing serious damage to the linkage, screws, pivots, etc. I've considered the same and could just machine it out of aluminum but after looking at the overall design I thought against it.
 
I stopped and offered to help a disabled Jeep Cherokee Thursday night. Actually, it was on my way back from getting drive-through. On the way out, I was already past him before I realized that the hood was up and the driver was just standing there. He was in a back parking lot, it was misting/drizzling, I was wearing a suit, I figured he'd already called for help, so I didn't turn around. I told myself if he's still there on the way back on 10-15 minutes, I'll stop.

Well, on the way back, there he was, so I pulled up and rolled down my window. Turns out he'd lost a freeze plug, but he'd already put in a temporary plug and was refilling the radiator with water in order to limp home. Then he tells me that he noticed me drive by the first time, and compliments me on having a nice rig!
 
Cleaned up some wiring under the hood. The wiring going to my windshield washer pumps was kind of dodgy to say the least. Looked like something was tied in to it at one point (maybe radio components or alarm or something stupid). I don't know. I've had my truck since day one so I have no idea. But it's been bothering me for years. Like 10. Tonight I cleaned it all up like how Mr. T designed it. Poured some fresh windshield washer fluid in because it was low. Installed my new rear seat cover finally and noticed a puddle of windshield washer fluid in front of my right front tire. Looked and couldn't see a leak from in the bay. I guess ill pull the reservoir tomorrow and see if it's cracked. It holds some fluid but leaks about half way is my guess.

Anyway, love my new seat covers. Finally installed the back seat. Kind of wish I had gone with the woodland camo to match my brown and tweed. Oh well. I'm ready for the zombie apocalypse now. :)

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1421632599.658180.jpg
 
After poking and prodding from @Qball finally decided to go ahead and install the Safari Snorkel. Now I've done this twice before, both were N/A trucks, both were the old style and both were easier to do than this go around. We had a few snags trying to get this in. What should have been 2hrs turned into 4. Embarrassing.

• Decided to use pop-rivets because the stupid square nut are ghey
• Forgot to put the air filter back :doh:
• Forgot to plug in the MAF plug :doh: again
• Had issues getting the elbow in place
• Had issues getting to the new stud/nut locations
• Found a bad wire that goes from the harness to the oil pressure switch and the A/C unit. Need to get a new one.

IMG_9671.JPG
IMG_9672.JPG
IMG_9673.JPG
 
Keep in mind that its plastic for a reason. Its VERY likely that it was intended on being the "fuse" for the entire system. Non-metals would prevent it from binding and causing serious damage to the linkage, screws, pivots, etc. I've considered the same and could just machine it out of aluminum but after looking at the overall design I thought against it.
I looked over the system also .And having a non-metal gearing is the only reason it would be in a bind and in fact causes the binding to happen because when it wares it stop turning causing the binding to happen. If it was metal it would never bind. There is no reason to have a weak point at the gear to gear connection. The only reason the system fails is because of this weak point . The system is design to move both sides at the same time and should never not move together. Just like in a manual seat where pulling a lever allows both sides to move at the same time , both rails are welded together and as far as I know never fail to slide on the rails. This could be accomplished on this seat by welding or screwing a metal bar in the back and one toward the front to make the now independent rails to work as one . I think the only reason they went with the independent rails was to allow room for the motor and blower under the seat . I also think if the two sides were welded together in a few places where room allowed that this would help take pressure off the gear that is plastic and is trying to move the rail at the same rate as the other side and being welded together would just make it work as one ,and even if the plastic gear was to ware the seat would still move with out it . But for me making a all metal gear is the way to go . Once my other seat fails because of the cheap plastic gears wearing out ,I'm going to weld a bar and connect both sides together along with making my gears metal because both rails should always move at the same time . Sometimes the reason for plastic parts is because of the cost involved in making a all metal parts .
 
The 80 has pretty much replaced my Subaru as my daily driver, it's a much more enjoyable vehicle to drive., IMHO. I continued to pick away at baselining/personalizing the 80; installed new rear sway bar links and bushings as well as hood struts, replaced worn rear brake rotors and pads and trimmed OEM front splash guards to fit with the Slee sliders.
 
Finally went out and screwed around at the local orv park. It was very slippery, probably 3-4in of melting snow. Made it up some hill climes and gave the dog a good run. I didnt do anything crazy but the truck never rubber with my new 35s on 4in bs.
For a 900 dollar rig this thing is a blast :)



 
Helped NLXTACY install his safari snorkel that sat in the box for any years.

Here is what I can say about the safari snorkel and the install:
1. The plastic on the safari snorkel is REALLY thick, almost unecesarily thick. It will not deform even if you stand on it, my OEM snorkel will bend slightly if i push hard with my hand.
2. The safari snorkel is major pain in the a$$ to install.
3. The design is somewhat flaw with the pillar brace, square plastic insert? Stupid!




Point of no return!
image.jpg


Using rivets instead of the retarded SQARE plastic insets
image.jpg



Ahhh........MUCH better!
image.jpg



Due to the usual unforeseen delays we didn't finish till dark so NXLTACY will post the finished product tomorrow. After a quick drive it is very obvious the intake temp is no more than 5-10 degrees above ambient temp which should help his over heating problem.
 
Last edited:
Yeah this install felt different from my first two Safari installs. Both of those were N/A trucks (bone stock) and both were of the old design. This install was oddly more difficult but that could easily be attributed to all the s*** I have installed under the hood.

BTW, yes my IATs are much lower than normal. Heat soak, after turning off the truck, drives the temp up but it crashes right back down after driving for a few mins.

I'll reserve judgement til we have another 90deg+ day.

Thanks again @Qball
 
Did some further field testing on the yodaTEQ Gull Wing Door

The Gull Wing Door replaces the rear window allows easy access to your load area via the side of your vehicle.

yodaTEQ Gull Wing Door1.jpg






yodaTEQ Gull Wing Door2.jpg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom