Changed front/rear diff fluid, oil, and threw on some niched needed new OEM belts - wash and wax after.
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And using the right tools for the job! Pocket holes and glue in this case.It's so nice to see someone who knows the value of solid wood.
Those should all be dovetail joints. All of them…And using the right tools for the job! Pocket holes and glue in this case.
Sorta the same as my daughter, years of indifference and then she takes it to a climbing comp in Richmond, VA and is suddenly the coolest kid on the block. She owns it now.I've not posted to this thread for a long time. But this weekend I drove my '95 for the first time in 2 years, 7 months, and 18 days. I had a HG failure and parked it. In January this year, I pulled the head. Just got it buttoned up this weekend. Joy To My World! Funny thing, my (at the time) 14 year old boy did not give a rat's ass about the Cruiser. Now that he's 17, he's dying to drive it...![]()
That's a good idea. Mine came with those cheap, red, Walmart Hellas, which sound like someone stepped on a chipmunk. Link to horns?Forgot to note it a couple of weeks ago, but I changed out the horns; upgraded to the same FIAMM 130db Low and High horns which are in my 2011 Avalon.
Now it sounds like a PROPER horn for this vehicle.
Really easy…half ain difficulty; about 10-15 minutes in time.
ALSO…changed the AT filter.
That took about three hours (using a full lift)…I’ve had her 10 years and hadn’t changed it but it was very apparent that the PO never changed it because the bolts still had the factory pink gunk on them when I pulled the tranny pan off.
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LS 400 horns are cheep and are plug and play. Run them on mine and love them. easy to find on E-bayThat's a good idea. Mine came with those cheap, red, Walmart Hellas, which sound like someone stepped on a chipmunk. Link to horns?
I actually like this better than the oem one. No slider interference, plus I can actually tuck this between the body and the slider on the trails to avoid getting ripped off, and it only cost $20.That's the downside to losing flares and running boards. Although, there is a non-running board version of the OEM mudflap.