What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (51 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Installed OME 850J front springs in a Lexus LX-450.
Note: front drive shaft is removed, rear tyres are chocked front and rear, Grateful Dead is playing, cold Guinness is in hand, gloves and eye protection on;
Step 1: detach steering linkage from steering box control arm side;
Step 2: remove front sway bar completely;
Step 3: slacken bolts (on rear) of front control arms;
Step 4: check temperature of Guinness;
Step 5: slacken front lug nuts;
Step 6: raise vehicle with floor jack under pumpkin. Support frame both sides aft of control arms with 3 ton jack stands;;
Step 7: support pumpkin with floor jack to relieve stress on panhard bolts;
Step 8: remove front panhard bolts and bar;
Step 9: remove front tyres;
Step 10: remove fasteners for bottom of shocks, both sides;
Step 11: remove fasteners for spring bump stops, both sides;
Step 12: remove bolts for front brake line supports, starboard side (Yankee vehicles);
Step 13: lower floor jack until mushy stock springs are floating;
Step 14: pull out mushy stock springs with bump stops;
Step 15; check temperature of Guinness;
Step 16: safely compress OME 850J springs;
Step 17: insert bump stops into new springs;
Step 18: position new springs onto bottom seat with end in position on seat;
Step 19: check temperature of Guinness;
Step 20: raise floor jack, compressing new springs, until fasteners for bottom of shocks can be engaged;
Step 21: install fasteners for spring bump stops;
Step 22: remove spring compression devices;
Step 23: install bottom shock fasteners;
Step 24: check temperature of Guinness;
Step 25: raise floor jack to align panhard bar bolts;
Step 26: install panhard bar bolts, leave bolts slack;
Step 27: check temperature of Guinness;
Step 28: reinstall brake line support fasteners;
Step 29: reinstall front tyres;
Step 30: raise vehicle with floor jack under pumpkin, remove jack stands;
Step 31: lower vehicle weight onto tyres;
Step 32: check temperature of Guinness;
Step 33: reinstall front sway bar;
Step 34: reinstall steering linkage at steering box control arm and torque, pin;
Step 35: tighten and torque rear bolts of front control arms with full vehicle weight;
Step 36: tighten and torque front panhard bolts with full vehicle weight;
Step 37: check temperature of Guinness;
Step 38: queue up Kenny Loggins "Highway to the Danger Zone";
Step 39: plan caster correction plate kit installation;
Step 40: plan steering damper kit installation;
Step 41: plan adjustable panhard bar installation.

View attachment 2963899

View attachment 2963900

View attachment 2963901

View attachment 2963902

View attachment 2963903
:bang:
 
That looks like CRAP! Why would you do something non-OEM on this truck?

What's wrong with you?








;):moon:;)



Yep I know, I originally ordered it for my son’s 80, but I think I will put it one of mine and give him a good used one!!!

Plus he hasn’t paid me for it!!
 
Enjoying lunch in the boonies on my tailgate, such beautiful views everywhere I look.

20220403_135034.jpg
 
I will always be a proponent of OEM parts. IME the difference in quality when you look at them side by side is more drastic than most would guess.

That said, even I have admittedly made an exception - my truck has amazon hood and hatch struts. I did say 80 Hail-Mary's though before install. God help me.
Agreed, my experience with LC's is also that OEM is usually much better quality. Funny on the struts though - here is a good example why this forum is great. I bought some struts off the interwebs but quality was poor and struts not strong enough. I ordered OEM hood and hatch struts, they work a lot better (than the ones I bought). I would have loved to know which part numbers you bought, I'm sure I had to pay more for the OEM.

The cool thing is, we have this forum where others can share experience and part numbers of aftermarket things that worked well as a replacement - but we also have the experience of those that have been cruiser owners for decades and can recommend when OEM is best. I can come and read and choose to heed the advice or do my own thing - pretty silly to be offended by it.
 
Last edited:
I realize we've started to derail the thread a bit into Oem vs. non territory here. A lot of the hype is generated by people buying high-milage trucks and finding things that are still functional or maybe on their way out and sticking with the tried and true. I did Strong Arm lift struts and they seem fine so far (2-1/2 years old) all 4 were less than just the oem hood pair at my time of purchase. I did the Rein high pressure steering line. I experimented with the Bosch "universal" O2 sensors ($36 for the pair) for a brief time and had a lot of problems so I went back to NGK(NTK?).
@Dusten keep updating your thread man. Let your Fastenal freak flag fly. Just remember that many non-oem parts will cause head gasket failure for us gassers so there's a real fear there.:p

As for weekend progress for me; I've started a tentative list for an OBA system. I've been flirting with selling my York stuff, but I never gave it a ton of research before.
 
Got everything buttoned up with the new axle including my sophisticated driveway alignment....drives great, ready for Utah!

IMG_20220403_115313.jpg


IMG_20220403_115309.jpg


IMG_20220403_115317.jpg
 
Had the Hudd Expo kill switch sitting around since December and got that in. Used an OEM switch so it would blend in and disappear. No pic, but it looks good. I think I want to rig one up for the EFI as well. So it will turn over, but without fuel. Multiple layers and all that.

Put in the Engine Guardian monitor i've had also had sitting around. I only put on the block sensor, but it'll take an oil pressure switch input as well if I get bored someday. I used the rear bolt that mounts the PAIR tubes to the head. So exhaust side, maybe cylinder 4-5 area. Drove it around a bit, got to 185* city driving. In driveway I ran 2000rpm for a few minutes and got it up to 190*. Nothing to see here. After shutdown the heat soak effect was easy to see and it got up to 207*. The monitor has an audible alarm that goes off at 203*. I'll probably set it a bit higher, but all this is nice and interesting since I dont have OBD2. The alarm feature is a winner for me.

This is what 203* looks like on a modified '94 temp gauge (ie. Still right in the dead zone)

PXL_20220404_005309847.jpg


And the monitor display (need a home for it)
PXL_20220404_005306753.jpg
 
Oh yeah, installed delta rack last weekend and parked next to a very clean 60 this morning during our monthly mall cruiser run. Sorry, no better pic of delta rack, but it looks good and is strong af. On month 6 waiting for my rear bumper, so sorry my butt is naked
PXL_20220403_171544232~2.jpg


Edit: snagged a shot with the delta rack
Screenshot_20220403-212550.png
 
Last edited:
I realize we've started to derail the thread a bit into Oem vs. non territory here. A lot of the hype is generated by people buying high-milage trucks and finding things that are still functional or maybe on their way out and sticking with the tried and true. I did Strong Arm lift struts and they seem fine so far (2-1/2 years old) all 4 were less than just the oem hood pair at my time of purchase. I did the Rein high pressure steering line. I experimented with the Bosch "universal" O2 sensors ($36 for the pair) for a brief time and had a lot of problems so I went back to NGK(NTK?).
@Dusten keep updating your thread man. Let your Fastenal freak flag fly. Just remember that many non-oem parts will cause head gasket failure for us gassers so there's a real fear there.:p

As for weekend progress for me; I've started a tentative list for an OBA system. I've been flirting with selling my York stuff, but I never gave it a ton of research before.

Like I said oem has it's place. But there are reputable alternatives to certain parts. There is also finding who makes the OEM and buying that
 
Since Woody has chat screwed down so tight, for entertainment we are left with new members who debate with folks that have worked with, on, and had Land Cruisers in various predicaments for decades.


Back to tech and cool 80 stuff, I just got my steering wheel back from Craft Customs I am very pleased with the quality. I opted for black stitching, hoping for more of a contrast.View attachment 2970499View attachment 2970500

That first picture is an odd angle. I thought it was wood and leather together. Lol

I'm not going to debate being new, but just because I'm new to a forum doesn't mean I don't have mechical skills and knowledge.
 
I work on airplanes day in and day out. I understand the need for correct and high quality hardware. I also have no doubt that the Toyota hardware is high quality.

But the amount of shame that people here out on others for *gasp* non OEM parts is one of the most off putting things about this forum.

It's made me stop my build thread.
Wait... I thought your build thread wasn't a build thread? Now I'm confused. 🤣
 
View attachment 2970531

Thanks!!!

The additional $35 was to eliminate the rolling/looseness that many of them have at the top.

They indicated approximately 12 business days, it was closer to 3 weeks.

The customer service was great. A tech calls when they receive to review the repair and they text pictures and shipping invoice when completed.
What did you find was the best way to get hold of them? I messaged a couple of times off their website last year with no reply.
 
I can't wait for the snow to clear so we can get to some of the cooler areas around here.

Sadly another 24" is hitting the mountains tonight.
Sounds like a good excuse to go snow wheeling. If I'd been home for more than a couple of days this week I'd have gone and messed around in that!
 
Sounds like a good excuse to go snow wheeling. If I'd been home for more than a couple of days this week I'd have gone and messed around in that!

I'm still unlocked. I'm still winchless. I'm friendless.
That's a bad recipe for snow s***.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom