You mean you have an underbody rust prevention system in place!
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (63 Viewers)
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Grounded, no offroading this full-moon weekend 
Finally changed the light bulbs on my AC control panel.
Finally changed the light bulbs on my AC control panel.
Picked up wood rounds for the fireplace. Not bad at all for 15 rounds (roughly 700 lbs). OME 850/863's. 4x4Labs rear bumper is needed soon though so I can buy a trailer and stop loading into the cab. This one didn't come with a tow package
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So ready for summer in SW Montana!
Rotten....look new to me. At least new England standards. Ha
Did it on Friday so I could wheel on the weekend
Replaced all my old rotted exhaust hangers to get everything back to tight like it should be.
They have lasted for 4 years so I replaced with the exact hangers. Should be good for another 4 years
View attachment 1418336
yes there the XXi ones, seem well made
Jungle80farmer
Jungle Fruit Farmer
Drove down Yankee Jim's road from foresthill to Colfax. Looking for waterfalls.
So my not so educated guess is that it was run low on oil at some point (you bought it leaking like a sieve, right?). Not enough to lose oil pressure, but enough to limit oil splash up the cylinders and has prematurely worn rings/cylinders. Hope it is less than that but makes sense.
Steve D
SILVER Star
The poor gal has been sitting on the lift too long.
My rear brake-a-palooza is finally finished! New pads, rotors, calipers, parking brake shoes, rubber lines at each wheel, e-brake drop block, and frame-to-axle braided line. Whew! I am glad the fronts are good for a while!!
Tomorrow I hope to tackle The Great 2017 Steering Refresh. Wish me luck.
6 weeks to Moab and I'm not sure my list is getting any shorter.
My rear brake-a-palooza is finally finished! New pads, rotors, calipers, parking brake shoes, rubber lines at each wheel, e-brake drop block, and frame-to-axle braided line. Whew! I am glad the fronts are good for a while!!
Tomorrow I hope to tackle The Great 2017 Steering Refresh. Wish me luck.
6 weeks to Moab and I'm not sure my list is getting any shorter.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Well, I'm not sure I'd say it is premature. It does have 337k on it.
It could've been run low at some point. I bought it with 312k on it. I had the low oil light come on a few times but always pulled over right away and added 2-3 qts.
It is what it is. It doesn't owe me anything. I'll probably change the oil next weekend when it warms up and send another sample off to Blackstone just to see what it says. It'll have 3k miles on it then.
Interestingly, I have put about 1500 miles on it since the oil change and have been checking the oil level every couple of days (or about 200ish) miles. Oil level hasn't dropped at all. Strange.
And this is with 4 qts of make up oil! Damn!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Just had a customer emergency. Guy calls up on a trip down in Baja Mexico. Steering started getting squirley so he pulled over. Two studs and hardware are completely missing from his right knuckle and the other two are loose.
Of course he has no spares but there is a small hardware store not terribly far from him. A quick measure with the studs I have here in stock and the knuckle-side of the stud is M12 x 1.5
The emergency solution is to get a set of 40mm long bolts to replace the two missing studs and tighten the two that are still on and use the new bolts in place of the studs.
The thing I made sure to keep in his mind is that Toyota does not spec a torque for the stud into the knuckle itself. It's just...tight. The clamping force and torque is on the nut and cone washer. The bolt could be threading into the knuckle which is why Toyota uses a slightly thicker shoulder to prevent that.
It's a good emergency solution if you have the correct bolt but definitely needs to be replaced when back at home. In fact all of the knuckle hardware needs to be replaced because it's been compromised.
Of course he has no spares but there is a small hardware store not terribly far from him. A quick measure with the studs I have here in stock and the knuckle-side of the stud is M12 x 1.5
The emergency solution is to get a set of 40mm long bolts to replace the two missing studs and tighten the two that are still on and use the new bolts in place of the studs.
The thing I made sure to keep in his mind is that Toyota does not spec a torque for the stud into the knuckle itself. It's just...tight. The clamping force and torque is on the nut and cone washer. The bolt could be threading into the knuckle which is why Toyota uses a slightly thicker shoulder to prevent that.
It's a good emergency solution if you have the correct bolt but definitely needs to be replaced when back at home. In fact all of the knuckle hardware needs to be replaced because it's been compromised.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Although I have a horse in this race I find the solution intriguing but like you the first thing I thought about was direct impact. For the Aussie crowd it seems it's less of an issue.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Yeah, but my HG didn't go!! No coolant! The <1% H2O is from when I got it confused with my 3FE and started to piss in the crankcase...
Sounds like 4x spare studals, cones and nuts would be a wise spare kit investment. I've seen a few threads about those studs now.
I've read enough posts about problems with knuckle studs that they, and cone washers are going into my spares box, which will ensure that I will never need them!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I've read enough posts about problems with knuckle studs that they, and cone washers are going into my spares box, which will ensure that I will never need them!
You shouldn't do long as you check torque after every outing
