What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (46 Viewers)

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Step 1) Read this in its entirety How to Flat tow your 80 series... safely.
Step 2) Put Trans in P and Transfer case in N.

Bottom line. Blue OX 10K-LB pull bar, Roadmaster InvisiBreak, Modified ARB for Blue OX. Also needed a receiver extension with a lift....

Tow vehicle is a Jayco Seneca.
 
The 80 threw it's first code!

:bounce2:
 
Put the drive line back in.
Z0cE7Hj.jpg
 
Step 1) Read this in its entirety How to Flat tow your 80 series... safely.
Step 2) Put Trans in P and Transfer case in N.

Bottom line. Blue OX 10K-LB pull bar, Roadmaster InvisiBreak, Modified ARB for Blue OX. Also needed a receiver extension with a lift....

Tow vehicle is a Jayco Seneca.

Ok just making sure. I saw the picture and I got concerned but seems you are all set ;)
 
Ok just making sure. I saw the picture and I got concerned but seems you are all set ;)

No original thoughts on this one :-) i was not going to go out on a limb with that project....
 
I fabed up a CB antenna mount today after the second trail run i did in the truck :)

20160905_185917 by Andrew Turner, on Flickr
20160905_190547 by Andrew Turner, on Flickr
I decided to cut out the curve for fear of the sharp part hitting the body when the antenna bends around as it does.
20160905_200501 by Andrew Turner, on Flickr
20160905_200450 by Andrew Turner, on Flickr
Sorry the pictures are not of great quality, it is starting to get darker early and you can start to feel fall creeping in.
 
on anything related to control arms, radius arms and panhard bolts, you will need a 22mm and a 24mm.
They are definitely not standard. 24mm on mine.




Even if the bushings aren't limiting downtravel they are binding more than they would which increases chances of tearing.

Hmm
I got a 24mm socket for the diff oil plug, but it's not impact. I'll give it a try.

The 24mm fits.
There is no way in hell I can loosen that up while the car is not jacked up. I cannot turn that breaker bar at all.
I'll go to HF tomorrow to get a 15/16" impact socket (which pretty close in size to a 24mm - which seems to be just a tiny bit loose on that nut) and try again.
15/16" is just a smidget smaller in size than a 24mm socket. I think it would be a perfect fit. I'll find out tomorrow.

I am slowly becoming a fan of impact guns.

My cheap HF plug in impact gun proved to be invaluable to me lately. We'll see if it can successfully tackle this control arm job.


I got a 15/16" impact socket today and it fits a little better than the 24mm I already have.
If time permits, I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Is there a certain procedure to follow when doing this job? Start with the front one? The rear one first? Doesn't matter...
Should I loosen them all up, but not take the bolts out? Never done this in my life and I still want to go wheeling in a couple of weeks at Big Bear.
 
Couldn't finish the door panel without the help of the master tech... :cheers:

image.webp
 
^^
Nice...

I've been following "the hound" on FB..
 
Finally wired up my switch panel, only took 4 years. :confused:

Just need to get some more lights now and finish up the wiring next month when it cools off a bit.

20160905_171502[1].webp
20160905_173916[1].webp
 
We took a trip out to Ruby Falls with 5 other rigs for the Sept long weekend. Was a great trip with all the ingredients: good weather, bad weather, scenery, family, friends, food, beverages, plenty of trails and some carnage. Even rappelled down a waterfall and felt like i stopped my heart swimming in frigid waters below another set of falls.

View attachment 1317192 View attachment 1317193 View attachment 1317194 View attachment 1317195 View attachment 1317196 Found treasure at the end of the rainbow!
That is a very cool trip!!
 
Got back on the road again. Smaller supercharger pulley is nice. Mostly installed intercooler in/out guage (proves it really does help). Downloaded the Car Performance app. and got one good 0 to 60 run. Time to be done with this and hit a couple more maintenence items so I can get out!
Screenshot_20160905-092748.webp
 
I got a 15/16" impact socket today and it fits a little better than the 24mm I already have.
If time permits, I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Is there a certain procedure to follow when doing this job? Start with the front one? The rear one first? Doesn't matter...
Should I loosen them all up, but not take the bolts out? Never done this in my life and I still want to go wheeling in a couple of weeks at Big Bear.

My 12-point 24 worked just fine.. those are big bolt heads and allow for a lot of wiggle between the socket/head.

But yes, you don't need to remove the bolt completely. I'd probably do one axle at a time. Loosen all 8 bolts on the front (axle-end of the radius arms isn't as important, but technically there can be some slight misalignment if the truck gained or lost any lean when the ride height changed).. push/rock the truck around a bit just to get a bit of suspension movement and let stuff settle, then torque everything back down.

Same thing on the rear, only it's 10 bolts.

NOTE: the 22mm bolt on the axle-end of the radius arm has bumps on the flange-side of the bolt head intended to dig in and keep them from backing out. DON'T loosen the bolt-head first! It really won't mess anything up badly, but it will require a lot more torque and score the faces of the radius arm brackets.


I KNOW I used that stupid 27mm socket on something on this truck and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what it was. Though yes, it does seem it wasn't on the links/radius arms. Could have been as a seal driver or something.. but I'm really starting to wonder about my memory sometimes.
 
Did you spray the paint on? Looks good, are those Tacoma steelies?

@erse , Yep just spray canned the paint on. They are Tacoma steelies if I remember right, all the holes are circular (whereas I think Tundra steelies have an oblong hole or two, mixed with circular).
 
My 12-point 24 worked just fine.. those are big bolt heads and allow for a lot of wiggle between the socket/head.

But yes, you don't need to remove the bolt completely. I'd probably do one axle at a time. Loosen all 8 bolts on the front (axle-end of the radius arms isn't as important, but technically there can be some slight misalignment if the truck gained or lost any lean when the ride height changed).. push/rock the truck around a bit just to get a bit of suspension movement and let stuff settle, then torque everything back down.

Same thing on the rear, only it's 10 bolts.

NOTE: the 22mm bolt on the axle-end of the radius arm has bumps on the flange-side of the bolt head intended to dig in and keep them from backing out. DON'T loosen the bolt-head first! It really won't mess anything up badly, but it will require a lot more torque and score the faces of the radius arm brackets.


I KNOW I used that stupid 27mm socket on something on this truck and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what it was. Though yes, it does seem it wasn't on the links/radius arms. Could have been as a seal driver or something.. but I'm really starting to wonder about my memory sometimes.


27mm ... knock sensor



You lost me. 8 bolts?
I thought there are 3 per side.
 

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