Went out to Imperial Valley for season opener.
Yes....I got my limit.
Yes....I got my limit.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
My 12-point 24 worked just fine.. those are big bolt heads and allow for a lot of wiggle between the socket/head.
But yes, you don't need to remove the bolt completely. I'd probably do one axle at a time. Loosen all 8 bolts on the front (axle-end of the radius arms isn't as important, but technically there can be some slight misalignment if the truck gained or lost any lean when the ride height changed).. push/rock the truck around a bit just to get a bit of suspension movement and let stuff settle, then torque everything back down.
Same thing on the rear, only it's 10 bolts.
NOTE: the 22mm bolt on the axle-end of the radius arm has bumps on the flange-side of the bolt head intended to dig in and keep them from backing out. DON'T loosen the bolt-head first! It really won't mess anything up badly, but it will require a lot more torque and score the faces of the radius arm brackets.
I KNOW I used that stupid 27mm socket on something on this truck and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what it was. Though yes, it does seem it wasn't on the links/radius arms. Could have been as a seal driver or something.. but I'm really starting to wonder about my memory sometimes.
27mm ... knock sensor
You lost me. 8 bolts?
I thought there are 3 per side.
My 12-point 24 worked just fine.. those are big bolt heads and allow for a lot of wiggle between the socket/head.
But yes, you don't need to remove the bolt completely. I'd probably do one axle at a time. Loosen all 8 bolts on the front (axle-end of the radius arms isn't as important, but technically there can be some slight misalignment if the truck gained or lost any lean when the ride height changed).. push/rock the truck around a bit just to get a bit of suspension movement and let stuff settle, then torque everything back down.
Same thing on the rear, only it's 10 bolts.
NOTE: the 22mm bolt on the axle-end of the radius arm has bumps on the flange-side of the bolt head intended to dig in and keep them from backing out. DON'T loosen the bolt-head first! It really won't mess anything up badly, but it will require a lot more torque and score the faces of the radius arm brackets.
I KNOW I used that stupid 27mm socket on something on this truck and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what it was. Though yes, it does seem it wasn't on the links/radius arms. Could have been as a seal driver or something.. but I'm really starting to wonder about my memory sometimes.
I hope we are talking about the same thing here.
this is what I was referring to as having 3 bolts.
Yes, but if you are going to reset the bushing position in those, you also need to do the same for the two bushings on the panhard rod on each axle.
Even if did not mess with the rear?
Probably not, unless the lean was really significant.
That said.. with how much these trucks settle it may not be a bad idea to reset bushings if it's never been done before.
And obviously if you lift.
Edit; we are totally clogging up this thread. Send PMs if needed.
Lateral control rod torque 127 lb-ft
The two front leading arm bolts at 127 lb-ft
Rear bolt at 130 lb-ft
Rear control rod torque is at 130 and 181 lb-ft
This is going to be a head scratcher. I don't have a lift for the car and I don't trust doing this job on a jack stand, be it a 6 ton one. And I have no idea when I would hit that torque spec with my impact gun.
I really hope whoever installed the suspension did this work, so I don't have to do it.
I got a 15/16" impact socket today and it fits a little better than the 24mm I already have.
If time permits, I'll give it a try tomorrow.
Is there a certain procedure to follow when doing this job? Start with the front one? The rear one first? Doesn't matter...
Should I loosen them all up, but not take the bolts out? Never done this in my life and I still want to go wheeling in a couple of weeks at Big Bear.
Hit the Tahoe end of Rubicon at 9pm Friday and wheeled in to Buck Island Reservior through the night, alone.
Going backwards against the grain to pass every rig going up... your such a REBEL...View attachment 1317627 View attachment 1317623 View attachment 1317625 Hit the Tahoe end of Rubicon at 9pm Friday and wheeled in to Buck Island Reservior through the night, alone. It took 6.5 hours, a couple of winches and high lift Jack sessions and one shattered rear hatch window but very rewarding as there is little room to error especially when you are solo. I spent three nights on the trail and headed out the Loon Lake end Monday. As usual I met lots of great people and saw some nice rigs. My photos are boring as I can't snap cool pics while I'm drive but I'll work on it.![]()
This came up in a conversation I had with some friends last week. Has anyone actually tried to use the rear "indexed" washer on the front? IIRC the size is the same.I trust the Allen bolts more than I do that thin washer in the little groove on the spindle. I know they tried to copy what goes on with our rear spindles but back there the washer is 3x as thick.