What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (61 Viewers)

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Went out to Imperial Valley for season opener.
Yes....I got my limit.

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My 12-point 24 worked just fine.. those are big bolt heads and allow for a lot of wiggle between the socket/head.

But yes, you don't need to remove the bolt completely. I'd probably do one axle at a time. Loosen all 8 bolts on the front (axle-end of the radius arms isn't as important, but technically there can be some slight misalignment if the truck gained or lost any lean when the ride height changed).. push/rock the truck around a bit just to get a bit of suspension movement and let stuff settle, then torque everything back down.

Same thing on the rear, only it's 10 bolts.

NOTE: the 22mm bolt on the axle-end of the radius arm has bumps on the flange-side of the bolt head intended to dig in and keep them from backing out. DON'T loosen the bolt-head first! It really won't mess anything up badly, but it will require a lot more torque and score the faces of the radius arm brackets.


I KNOW I used that stupid 27mm socket on something on this truck and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what it was. Though yes, it does seem it wasn't on the links/radius arms. Could have been as a seal driver or something.. but I'm really starting to wonder about my memory sometimes.

27mm = this sensor is 27mm. On the transfer case.


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27mm ... knock sensor



You lost me. 8 bolts?
I thought there are 3 per side.

Panhard rod.

And I'm pretty sure I didn't use a socket for the knock sensor or CDL indicator.. big crescent for both of those. I learned my lesson by breaking a brand-new coolant temp sender by putting a socket onto the thing. That stung.
 
My 12-point 24 worked just fine.. those are big bolt heads and allow for a lot of wiggle between the socket/head.

But yes, you don't need to remove the bolt completely. I'd probably do one axle at a time. Loosen all 8 bolts on the front (axle-end of the radius arms isn't as important, but technically there can be some slight misalignment if the truck gained or lost any lean when the ride height changed).. push/rock the truck around a bit just to get a bit of suspension movement and let stuff settle, then torque everything back down.

Same thing on the rear, only it's 10 bolts.

NOTE: the 22mm bolt on the axle-end of the radius arm has bumps on the flange-side of the bolt head intended to dig in and keep them from backing out. DON'T loosen the bolt-head first! It really won't mess anything up badly, but it will require a lot more torque and score the faces of the radius arm brackets.


I KNOW I used that stupid 27mm socket on something on this truck and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what it was. Though yes, it does seem it wasn't on the links/radius arms. Could have been as a seal driver or something.. but I'm really starting to wonder about my memory sometimes.


I hope we are talking about the same thing here.

this is what I was referring to as having 3 bolts.

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I hope we are talking about the same thing here.

this is what I was referring to as having 3 bolts.

Yes, but if you are going to reset the bushing position in those, you also need to do the same for the two bushings on the panhard rod on each axle.
 
Even if did not mess with the rear?

Probably not, unless the lean was really significant.

That said.. with how much these trucks settle it may not be a bad idea to reset bushings if it's never been done before.

And obviously if you lift.

Edit; we are totally clogging up this thread. Send PMs if needed.
 
Probably not, unless the lean was really significant.

That said.. with how much these trucks settle it may not be a bad idea to reset bushings if it's never been done before.

And obviously if you lift.

Edit; we are totally clogging up this thread. Send PMs if needed.


Lateral control rod torque 127 lb-ft
The two front leading arm bolts at 127 lb-ft
Rear bolt at 130 lb-ft


Rear control rod torque is at 130 and 181 lb-ft

This is going to be a head scratcher. I don't have a lift for the car and I don't trust doing this job on a jack stand, be it a 6 ton one. And I have no idea when I would hit that torque spec with my impact gun.

I really hope whoever installed the suspension did this work, so I don't have to do it.
 
After cleaning the carpet, fixing the passenger seat gear, installing a steering wheel cover, installing new plates, installing a new phone mount, installing new kayak holders, building sunscreens for the driver and passenger windows, wiping down the snorkel, and finish welding on the sliders, I was ready to enjoy some fun in the sun with the family and friends on the lake.
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Lateral control rod torque 127 lb-ft
The two front leading arm bolts at 127 lb-ft
Rear bolt at 130 lb-ft


Rear control rod torque is at 130 and 181 lb-ft

This is going to be a head scratcher. I don't have a lift for the car and I don't trust doing this job on a jack stand, be it a 6 ton one. And I have no idea when I would hit that torque spec with my impact gun.

I really hope whoever installed the suspension did this work, so I don't have to do it.

Just drive it! Snorkel will do the rest!
 
I installed Trail Gear's Chromoly Spindle Nut kit and OME steering stabilizer. The hardest part was getting the castle nut on the relay rod tight when reassembling. The stud would spin inside the tie rod and the nut wouldn't tighten. Ended up having to place a jack under the tie rod to apply enough pressure on the tapered stud that it wouldn't spin. Even then it was hard to get tight. I took it apart twice to make sure I wasn't cross threading it. It finally got tight enough to get the cotter pin in without force. I'll keep an eye on it. Maybe it's time to replace the relay rod tie rod ends. The grease boots look good, but the joint is a little loose.
 
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I got a 15/16" impact socket today and it fits a little better than the 24mm I already have.
If time permits, I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Is there a certain procedure to follow when doing this job? Start with the front one? The rear one first? Doesn't matter...
Should I loosen them all up, but not take the bolts out? Never done this in my life and I still want to go wheeling in a couple of weeks at Big Bear.

loosen them all up, but not take the bolts out... yep just did this yesterday on my rear with a 15/16 & 7/8 combo wrench & my foot.
You got this, GetRdone.
 
Cruiser got a lot of action this long weekend. Put maybe 500-600 miles on the new turbo including a lot of dirt and some real off road. My wife has been recovering from surgery most of the summer, so now that she's feeling better, we're trying to pack in as much activity as possible so it doesn't feel like the whole summer was lost.

Took thursday off and went up to rainbow lakes for a hike with the wife

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Took Friday off and headed up to White River NF and set up camp near Vail
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Got rained out and headed home late Saturday night. Then Monday we headed up to the East Portal to check out the needle's eye & Jenny Lake. Debated on whether or not to run Jenny Creek Trail, but it turned out to be fortuitous that we did. A father and his 7y.o. son broke an axle on their ATV and were in for a VERY LONG walk... nobody else on the trail, so we picked them up and gave them a ride down to their truck.

Jenny Creek-wow, really tight. Do not attempt if you have good paint. I'm surprised I made it through with my fender flares :eek:

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Good company at the parking area below Needle's Eye
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Hit the Tahoe end of Rubicon at 9pm Friday and wheeled in to Buck Island Reservior through the night, alone. It took 6.5 hours, a couple of winches and high lift Jack sessions and one shattered rear hatch window but very rewarding as there is little room to error especially when you are solo. I spent three nights on the trail and headed out the Loon Lake end Monday. As usual I met lots of great people and saw some nice rigs. My photos are boring as I can't snap cool pics while I'm drive but I'll work on it. :)
 
Rotated tires, changed the oil, greased the driveshafts, drained and refilled the front differential (to remove the birf soup), refilled the knuckles with moly, and changed the gas tank (the original tank got the dreaded crack a year ago and I've been short-filling for that long), and changed the evap canister and hoses.

The fitting for the high pressure line on top of the gas tank was boogered inside from it being seated too hard. It stripped the threads out of the old hose as I removed it. The new hose would not thread on, do I had to chase down a 14 x 1.5 die to rethreaded the male fitting before installing the new hose.
 
View attachment 1317627 View attachment 1317623 View attachment 1317625 Hit the Tahoe end of Rubicon at 9pm Friday and wheeled in to Buck Island Reservior through the night, alone. It took 6.5 hours, a couple of winches and high lift Jack sessions and one shattered rear hatch window but very rewarding as there is little room to error especially when you are solo. I spent three nights on the trail and headed out the Loon Lake end Monday. As usual I met lots of great people and saw some nice rigs. My photos are boring as I can't snap cool pics while I'm drive but I'll work on it. :)
Going backwards against the grain to pass every rig going up... your such a REBEL...
 
I trust the Allen bolts more than I do that thin washer in the little groove on the spindle. I know they tried to copy what goes on with our rear spindles but back there the washer is 3x as thick.
This came up in a conversation I had with some friends last week. Has anyone actually tried to use the rear "indexed" washer on the front? IIRC the size is the same.
 

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