What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (23 Viewers)

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Installing DeltaVS QPM. Blue tape locates the cubby on the LX450 trim (left), and where I want to put an external switch panel (right). I am putting the fuse panel behind the cubby door for access, as well as one end of the DC to DC convertor. It has buttons to change modes, and initiate charging the starting battery.

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Rivnuts going in. DeltaVS use much nicer rivnuts than what I use.
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Pulled it back out to install the DC to DC converter, fuse block, and fuse panel, and 120A relay (triggered by ACC).
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Blue Sea components, and LiTimes DC to DC Charger/MPPT and LiTimes 12V 100Ah battery.

Still waiting on stuff to finish up.
did you leave the plastic panel off leaving the RQPM open? if so how does it look with your drawer kit?
 
@COS80
I just installed my new Lutz kit last night.
Took about an hour because I had trouble unplugging my original harness due to tar, gravel, and other debris caked on the plug.

I knew my number was 5% so as soon as I had it connected, poked it 10 times, installed the cover, and drove it. Right on the money.
View attachment 3848671
Are those sheet metal screws or did you put nuts topside?
 
Are those sheet metal screws or did you put nuts topside?
The only screws are the ones that hold on the gasketed cover of the control box. They are supplied with the unit, including the zip ties.

The only thing I supplied was my labor, a tiny bit of dielectric grease, and the tape.

It is zip tied to the fuel lines to hold it in place. Then I zip tied the original harness to it to keep it up out of harms way
I used 3M #33 black electrical tape to wrap all connections and open loom.

Probably one of the easiest mods I've done on it.
 
The only screws are the ones that hold on the gasketed cover of the control box. They are supplied with the unit, including the zip ties.

The only thing I supplied was my labor, a tiny bit of dielectric grease, and the tape.

It is zip tied to the fuel lines to hold it in place. Then I zip tied the original harness to it to keep it up out of harms way
I used 3M #33 black electrical tape to wrap all connections and open loom.

Probably one of the easiest mods I've done on it.
I see, thanks. couldn't tell on small cell phone pic.
 
@COS80
I just installed my new Lutz kit last night.
Took about an hour because I had trouble unplugging my original harness due to tar, gravel, and other debris caked on the plug.

I knew my number was 5% so as soon as I had it connected, poked it 10 times, installed the cover, and drove it. Right on the money.
View attachment 3848671

Nice location for the box.

did you leave the plastic panel off leaving the RQPM open? if so how does it look with your drawer kit?

The plan is for the trim panel to be reinstalled.

I just happen to be test fitting today... all fuses accessible.

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As shown in the above image, I am using a 120 Amp Anderson plug, lower right, to transfer power from the electronics mounted on the QPM to the battery.

1740698473234.png


Here is what it looks like with the drawer sideboard installed with the trim in place. The 120 Amp Anderson plug is hidden below the side board, and 6 AWG cables come up through a pre-existing hole in the sideboard (not shown). The anderson plug in the above image is just a 50 Amp plug used for the 120V AC to DC charger.
 
Nice location for the box.



The plan is for the trim panel to be reinstalled.

I just happen to be test fitting today... all fuses accessible.

View attachment 3848772

As shown in the above image, I am using a 120 Amp Anderson plug, lower right, to transfer power from the electronics mounted on the QPM to the battery.

View attachment 3848773

Here is what it looks like with the drawer sideboard installed with the trim in place. The 120 Amp Anderson plug is hidden below the side board, and 6 AWG cables come up through a pre-existing hole in the sideboard (not shown). The anderson plug in the above image is just a 50 Amp plug used for the 120V AC to DC charger.
Super clean install. That looks great.
 
The only screws are the ones that hold on the gasketed cover of the control box. They are supplied with the unit, including the zip ties.

The only thing I supplied was my labor, a tiny bit of dielectric grease, and the tape.

It is zip tied to the fuel lines to hold it in place. Then I zip tied the original harness to it to keep it up out of harms way
I used 3M #33 black electrical tape to wrap all connections and open loom.

Probably one of the easiest mods I've done on it.
This is on our list too (the 62 needs this mod as well). Very clean install.
 
The only screws are the ones that hold on the gasketed cover of the control box. They are supplied with the unit, including the zip ties.

The only thing I supplied was my labor, a tiny bit of dielectric grease, and the tape.

It is zip tied to the fuel lines to hold it in place. Then I zip tied the original harness to it to keep it up out of harms way
I used 3M #33 black electrical tape to wrap all connections and open loom.

Probably one of the easiest mods I've done on it.
i installed mine a few months ago in the same exact way. zip tied body to the fuel lines, zip tied harness to the other harness for strain relief.

so simple and soooo much satisfaction for the speedo and odometer to be spot on, and i can correct all future tire rolling diameters.
 
The yellow box doesn't seem to exist anymore.

Am I correct that the Lutz will adapt to whatever gears I may have? It's just "whatever's there" +/- 1/2% per button push?
Yes! There's a thread on it somewhere. I have 35's and 4.88's. I did some rough calculations with GPS, pressed the button 7 times, and it was done. My speedo is more accurate than my wife's completely stock 2015 MDX.

Update: found it
 
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Swaped out the springs from a budget OME and spring packer setup done by the PO.

Swapped in some gently used Slinky heavies thanks @dogfishlake for putting them up for sale as take offs from a project of his. Shocks are still being debated. Also swapped the front panhard for an adjustable unit.

Picked up about an 1 1/2 in the front and 1 3/4 in the rear and now barely clears the garage door so long as I am selective with the angle I approach at.
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Too bad you missed resetting the trip meter when it hit 333,333. :)
 
Got my bride's '94 factory triple locked rig all but finished! Woo hoo! We're hitting the Kentucky Adventure Tour (KAT) a week from today, for a few days of wheeling. She's stoked, and I'm feeling pretty darn good. Saved this rig from the junk yard. Bought it as a rusted out, barely running hunk of junk. Now, she’s got a lot of years left in her.


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Got my bride's '94 factory triple locked rig all but finished! Woo hoo! We're hitting the Kentucky Adventure Tour (KAT) a week from today, for a few days of wheeling. She's stoked, and I'm feeling pretty darn good. Saved this rig from the junk yard. Bought it as a rusted out, barely running hunk of junk. Now, she’s got a lot of years left in her.


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Glad it was salvaged and given a new contract on life
 
Glad it was salvaged and given a new contract on life
Absolutely! Feels good to save it… and making my bride happy… the icing on the cake.
 
thanks for that :)
Having said that, could you use the locking rings and nuts from the front on the rear?

Do you want to?
Why or why not?
 

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