What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (68 Viewers)

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Finished up the rear brakes on the LX yesterday. New calipers and pads on both sides. Does that mandate new rotors as well?

Still have the maddening squeak when turning left at slow speeds. The search for silence continues.

Spent almost an hour getting a now 7ft tall truck into a 7ft tall garage door.

Step 1 - remove the lower handle on the door for clearance.
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Air down to 5-6lbs
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Step 3 - Add ballast to combat stinkbug
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Step 4 - Ease into the garage ever so slowly
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Step 5 - Beer, cause that was more work than it should have been
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Did you work the rear axle bearings recently since your noise? Had a truck in shop when I worked cruisers that had a rear noise coming in during turns. Figured out that had new bearings and one race was not seated all the way allowing the rotor to not sit straight so make slight contact to the caliper
 
@ajax1 - I haven't worked on the rear axles. Is there a was to add grease like the fronts w/o opening the hubs? Possible the stuck caliper generated enough heat to break down the grease?
 
Haha, I had to remove the wood trim on my garage entrance and change the limit on the door so it pulled all the way up for me to make it in.

I had to change the door limit as well. Only had ~2" to work with and it wasn't enough. First attempt caught the rear deflector on the wood trim and second caught it on the door handle. Not sure if it would have been easier to just put the 33" tires on it to see if it fits that way.
 
@ajax1 - I haven't worked on the rear axles. Is there a was to add grease like the fronts w/o opening the hubs? Possible the stuck caliper generated enough heat to break down the grease?
pull the axles and grease the hub and bearings
 
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You could prob pull abs sensor and add grease thru there but would likely then get grease on the abs sensor when out back in, or pull the axles and grease the hub and bearings. Could maybe go thru the abs then leave sensor out go drive with tape over the hole then pull tape and stick your sensor back in? I guess if you did it this way and then tripped a abs light you’d know it’s cause the dirty sensor in back

No, not at all.

The rear wheel bearings are mounted internal of the hub. The ABS sensor reads the reluctor ring on the inside end of the rear hub.

In order to grease the REAR wheel bearings, you jack it up, remove the wheel, pull the axle shaft, remove the spindle nut (different than the front ones), remove the brake caliper, slide the hub assembly off the spindle, remove the bearings and seals, clean and repack the bearings, fill the cavity with WB grease, install the packed bearings and new seals, and reassemble in reverse order. Torque WB to 35 LB-FT / 45 LB-Ft, install all parts and GTG.
 
installed new Ron Davis radiator, new WP, belts and hoses, smog pump delete, new O2 sensors, and also installed OEM hand throttle.
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any difference in temps? how bad was install? damn fine looking engine there.
 
any difference in temps? how bad was install? damn fine looking engine there.
Thanks! I have not had a change to take the rig out on the trail or hill climb/mountain roads yet, but from driving around town, the temp is right at 185F and have yet seen 190F so far in LA stop and go traffic. I am not expecting any difference in temp in City driving, hopefully on highway or steeper grade when i needed to maintain 65-70mph is where i am hoping to see sub 200F temp from this new unit. I will report back after.
 
While changing the oil this weekend, I noticed two things...can anyone help out a 80 newbie?
1. Holes with some kind of oil near them always make me nervous...on the front diff side of the transmission. Anything to be worried about?
2. A hanging hose on the back side of the front diff. I thought the breather at first, but I don't think so after looking at a parts diagram.

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Oil in that area is most likely from the engine oil pan. You can find threads about resealing that in this forum.

That is not a hose hanging down, but the wiring for your ABS wheel speed sensors with a protective bracket. Is the bracket loose, and being held in place by your hand? If so, it may have rusted off.
 
Oil in that area is most likely from the engine oil pan. You can find threads about resealing that in this forum.

That is not a hose hanging down, but the wiring for your ABS wheel speed sensors with a protective bracket. Is the bracket loose, and being held in place by your hand? If so, it may have rusted off.

Thanks for the help, Don!

Acknowledge the engine oil pan. In regards to the ABS, that makes sense maybe as my ABS light is on. The bracket looked sheared off to me, but it very well may have been rust too. Either way, it's not attached at that point.
 
Ordered DeltaVS panhard bracket.
so even with a 6in lift this delta bracket can reduce body roll? Is this sound right?
 
so even with a 6in lift this delta bracket can reduce body roll? Is this sound right?

Supposedly yes, they only have up to 5 inch bracket but should be close enough. At 6 inch tea gel if panhard is quite extreme so it should help a lot.

Anyone has experience with 5-6 inch lift with bracket?
 
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Drove it tonight, for the first time in months. I had coolant in the oil, so the engine got some work. While I had it apart, I replaced the water pump, lower thermostat housing, engine mounts, and hoses, with all Genuine Toyota parts. I also deleted the smog pump, and related parts. FYI, I plugged the air tube ports at the head, with 5/16" steel dowels and new collets. With this out of the way, I have room for dual batteries, a York compressor, or both? I addressed the oil leaks, and am pleased to say I have no more exhaust leaks.

HAPPY BIRF DAY ADAM! CHEERS BROTHER! :beer::beer::beer::beer:

Hope you get to use the tent this weekend and relax!

Jason
Thanks, Jason! Now that it's back on the road, I am going to do just that.
 
Thanks for the help, Don!

Acknowledge the engine oil pan. In regards to the ABS, that makes sense maybe as my ABS light is on. The bracket looked sheared off to me, but it very well may have been rust too. Either way, it's not attached at that point.

Just about every 80 I've seen looks like that underneath.

It's hard to tell from one picture, but there most likely is a few different areas to address. The upper oil pan gasket is a little more difficult as you need to raise the engine a bit. I would bet most the oil is coming from the oil pump seal (o-ring) at the front of the engine. Youtube videos from @Texasknowhow are very helpful. But yes, the oil pump seal and upper oil pan seal are most likely the 2 main contributors.
 
And the rear of the Valve Cover. That is a regular leaker also.
 
Just about every 80 I've seen looks like that underneath.

It's hard to tell from one picture, but there most likely is a few different areas to address. The upper oil pan gasket is a little more difficult as you need to raise the engine a bit. I would bet most the oil is coming from the oil pump seal (o-ring) at the front of the engine. Youtube videos from @Texasknowhow are very helpful. But yes, the oil pump seal and upper oil pan seal are most likely the 2 main contributors.

What he said. Let’s not forget about the valve cover gasket. It all flows downhill.

Edit: Bilt calls bingo first
 

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