What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (7 Viewers)

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Well. Things have spiraled a bit here….. im glad I did this, it will just get worse.


Any one have any tips on. Recreating the drip rail?? I’ll have a few sections I’ll need to cut out and fix.

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I love seeing this. Been wanting to go down this path on a few 60’s. Will check to see if you have a build thread. If not, definitely do one so we can all follow along.
 
I love seeing this. Been wanting to go down this path on a few 60’s. Will check to see if you have a build thread. If not, definitely do one so we can all follow along.
@kelly saad may have a solution for you
 
Well. Things have spiraled a bit here….. im glad I did this, it will just get worse.


Any one have any tips on. Recreating the drip rail?? I’ll have a few sections I’ll need to cut out and fix.

View attachment 3087932

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Nice! Good job. This is the ONLY way to truly repair these rusty roof issues. I have removed a few of roof panels just like this also. I would use the spot weld cutter, and remove all of the gutters, sand blast them clean, zinc primer and reinstall. Once the gutters are off, you can sand blast everything and the repair will be 100%. Also, with the roof off, its easy to see all the rust underneath, and repair it on a stand before you reinstall it. I love this. I will be doing a roof job like this coming up this winter. Awesome!
 
Well. Things have spiraled a bit here….. im glad I did this, it will just get worse.


Any one have any tips on. Recreating the drip rail?? I’ll have a few sections I’ll need to cut out and fix.

View attachment 3087932

View attachment 3087933



This is a great perspective on how to correctly fix the rust in these areas. To re-make the drip rails, which I believe are 20 gauge steel, a die set to use on a pullmax would be ideal. The side profile of the drip rail is such that it has a very sharp kink at the bottom of the rail (probably to hold the chrome trim in place) and the top part folds over on itself. I have seen drip rails made for other vehicles using draw dies and reciprocating machine dies, but alot of these are homemade. Its an intricate, time-consuming process but well worth the reward to make a set of dies that will give you an exact replica shape. Most body shops cut corners on drip rail repairs and hope the owner doesnt notice. But then many owners arent willing to pay for the time it takes to make a correct set of dies for their drip rails either, so its understandable. I might look into having a die maker make me some dies I can use to shape the drip rails when I get to this stage of my project. Please continue to post on your progress, this is a great effort and contribution to make to the 60 owners community as we are all now or will be dealing with this at some point in our trucks lifecycle.
 
Nice! Good job. This is the ONLY way to truly repair these rusty roof issues. I have removed a few of roof panels just like this also. I would use the spot weld cutter, and remove all of the gutters, sand blast them clean, zinc primer and reinstall. Once the gutters are off, you can sand blast everything and the repair will be 100%. Also, with the roof off, its easy to see all the rust underneath, and repair it on a stand before you reinstall it. I love this. I will be doing a roof job like this coming up this winter. Awesome!

Just removed 2 of the drip rails and looks like they are all salvageable with some welding and grinding. Super happy I did this before they were too far gone. I think I’ll sandblast them as well like you recommended. The roof isn’t super bad, I’ll need to replace a few sections, not sure what to do with all the spot weld holes. Used a flattened copper pipe ( cheap spoon) and plug welded everything on the cowling I removed last week. May just be easier to zip off the edge and tig weld a new strip on?

Probally worth starting a build thread. I’ll see what kind of time I have this weekend. This one is up there for rusty truck revivals. I’ll have to take a pause for a 3 or 4 month house project here in October.
 
Just removed 2 of the drip rails and looks like they are all salvageable with some welding and grinding. Super happy I did this before they were too far gone. I think I’ll sandblast them as well like you recommended. The roof isn’t super bad, I’ll need to replace a few sections, not sure what to do with all the spot weld holes. Used a flattened copper pipe ( cheap spoon) and plug welded everything on the cowling I removed last week. May just be easier to zip off the edge and tig weld a new strip on?

Probally worth starting a build thread. I’ll see what kind of time I have this weekend. This one is up there for rusty truck revivals. I’ll have to take a pause for a 3 or 4 month house project here in October.
You have to do a build thread. Those of us looking to do this will follow along closely.
 
Just removed 2 of the drip rails and looks like they are all salvageable with some welding and grinding. Super happy I did this before they were too far gone. I think I’ll sandblast them as well like you recommended. The roof isn’t super bad, I’ll need to replace a few sections, not sure what to do with all the spot weld holes. Used a flattened copper pipe ( cheap spoon) and plug welded everything on the cowling I removed last week. May just be easier to zip off the edge and tig weld a new strip on?

Probally worth starting a build thread. I’ll see what kind of time I have this weekend. This one is up there for rusty truck revivals. I’ll have to take a pause for a 3 or 4 month house project here in October.

Does a tig torch fit in the space between the roof and drip rails for plug welding the roof back on to the drip rails? Otherwise it may be easier to weld that strip you mentioned and then spot weld back on. Might need to find a thin set of tongs/tips for the spot welder though, its a tight space. Looking forward to that build thread! :)
 
Found my uphill overheating problem, got it solved ! :)

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:rimshot:
 
Does a tig torch fit in the space between the roof and drip rails for plug welding the roof back on to the drip rails? Otherwise it may be easier to weld that strip you mentioned and then spot weld back on. Might need to find a thin set of tongs/tips for the spot welder though, its a tight space. Looking forward to that build thread! :)

build thread started ( I think )
 

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