What did you do to your pig today? (1 Viewer)

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It"s all because of Scraps , I did this yesterday !

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Finally got the rear window glass separated from the motor, a punch and hammer to push the pins out. Motor assembly pulled. Glass goes all the way down, but still can’t get the tail gate to open.

Here’s a video showing me pulling on the handle. Maybe the outside latches are frozen 🤔. Everything else look ok?

 
You'll need to get the 2 safety latches to open before you get the Tailgate open, one on each side of the gate. This is detailed in gary-s rear window thread

 
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You'll need to get the 2 safety latches to open before you get the Tailgate open, one on each side of the gate. This is detailed in gary-s rear window thread

Yea, I’ve been through that thread multiple times. I’m guessing the tail gate locks are frozen on both sides since there’s so much resistance. I’ll soak them with kroil and see if they’ll break loose.

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If the handle is not pulling the two rods enough to free the latch you may need to put the window up again so you can tighten the pices in the middle of the rod. Then try again.
 
You probably know this but don't pull on the tailgate handle. Lift the handle and pull on the tailgate. Pretty sure pulling on the handle is why so many of them have cracked over the years. Agree with @DTC72, prop the glass up with a 2x board and twist that central mechanism manually while someone holds the handle up. Those connecting rods have to move further to release the tailgate.
 
Yea, I’ve been through that thread multiple times. I’m guessing the tail gate locks are frozen on both sides since there’s so much resistance. I’ll soak them with kroil and see if they’ll break loose.

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You can disconnect the connecting rods at the connecting plates and then try to manually unlatch them.
 
You probably know this but don't pull on the tailgate handle. Lift the handle and pull on the tailgate. Pretty sure pulling on the handle is why so many of them have cracked over the years. Agree with @DTC72, prop the glass up with a 2x board and twist that central mechanism manually while someone holds the handle up. Those connecting rods have to move further to release the tailgate.
x2 - do not use the handle for pulling. Just for unlatching.
 
I drove the pig round trip to chico (hour and a half each way) made some money wrenchin' and came home with:
150 lbs of chicken scratch
150lbs layer pellets
25 lbs pancake mix
30 gallons of premium gasoline
20 pounds of Idaho russets
4 bags of groceries
1 fishing license.
And $3.28 more than I left with.

I saw my pal Jeff at the feed store and he wants me to check out the driveline In his FJ40, and he gave me his number, so now I can do that...

Stopped on the whomup the hill to try and help some folks who lost a wheel.
Got them out of the dirt, and told them what they need to do to get rollin and that if they arent rollin in 3 days, ill come make it happen...


All in all a good day.
 
Got them out of the dirt, and told them what they need to do to get rollin and that if they arent rollin in 3 days, ill come make it happen...
This is the kind of thing my son now does - early on when he was 16 he was driving my first 40, told him if he was going to drive it, he should know how it works - now whenever he sees a broken down vehicle he pulls over and asks if they have gas and a spark. Both boys can easily now swap engines and such, good times.
 
This is the kind of thing my son now does - early on when he was 16 he was driving my first 40, told him if he was going to drive it, he should know how it works - now whenever he sees a broken down vehicle he pulls over and asks if they have gas and a spark. Both boys can easily now swap engines and such, good times.
I make my living as a mechanic, and I often work out of the back of my FJ55.
Something called me to these poor folks, they look genuinely stuck and probably can't arlfford a pot to piss in, so I got briefly involved...
I hope they figure it out, because I'll need to find an axle shaft, backing plate, drum, and all of the brake hardware at a junk
yard.

Fortunately it's an F150 from about 1993, and the junkyards are stacked with compatible parts...
I'm optimistic that they'll figure it out without my continued involvement.
 
Finally got back on the pig this morning after repairing 2 water leaks on in-laws home and fixing all the floor damaged caused by months of a constant drip.

Anyhow, the twin stick is in and working. I had to make the bracket to mount to the 4l60e tranny and the aluminum block to shift the tcase from high to low. Next, is to modify the tranny hump. I hate modifying the hump bc eventually the plan is for an nv4500 and it’ll require more modifications then I’m sure.

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Victory! Tailgate is open! 🐷

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This is what I did today: took the cover off the voltage regulator….and increased my voltage output from 12v to 13v at idle, and 12.6v to 14.1v at about 2000rpms. I know this isn’t a long term solution, but does anyone have any idea what is going on? I can see the voltage drop as I slowly put the cover back on. And one time when I touched metal to metal, I blew the turn signal fuse. Other than this, the VR seems to function as expected, though it has never generated too high a voltage to natively cut out- but manually closing the cut out switch (lower spool) also opens the first switch (upper spool). I started this experiment in an effort to figure out why my voltage is so low under normal operating conditions.

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I went round and round with my '79 being weak like you describe. At night in the rain was a disaster. The alternator could not keep up. I re worked grounds and up graded to some new wires. Finally I bought and installed a GM 50 amp one wire with a volt meter added under the dash and it was one of the best mods ever. I have a vague recollection , ( most recollections are that way these days.) I read somewhere Toyota recommended charging the battery on the FJ55 from time to time after a lot of night driving.
 

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