What did you do on your 70 series today? (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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CT drivers are zombies.
The driver was probably consumed with worrying if he had enough juice to make it home.
Found a small bubble in the paint near the rain gutter. I will have it fixed before the summer. I will not let rust get a chance to gain a finger hold. 
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Many stories to come... 8700 foot passes are no friend of Betsy. But we are on our way home.
Hey glad you are safe and sound, safe travels home bud! Look forward to the pictures, and all the tall tales of terrific terror!
Mocking up things to finalize the drive line swap.
Replaced injectors on the HZJ77 today
Not a lot to the job other than following the manual, hitting things with pb blaster a day before, taking photos of before state case of brain fart.
I was sure to label the pipes at the injector end and the IP end.
Keep things as clean as possible, I vaccuumed out the top of the head to eliminate possible contamination.
Loosten the lines at the injector and IP and remove the line retainers so you can move things out of way as needed.
Remove the return line
Started with #1, removed the injector, the silver colored seat/gasket that sits in bottom will come out with magnet, the brass colored seat will come out with a pick/small flathead.
Inspect and carefully clean out seat in prep for replacements with beefy q-tips you can get for cleaning firearms.
Seat the silver gasket and drop in the brass colored new replacement washer and screw in the new injector and torque to 47 foot lbs and put the plastic cover on the supply end to prevent contamination.
I put a very small amount of copper colored high temp anti sieze on the injector threads to prevent any future removal issues.
Rinse and repeat for other 5.....#6 is a bit challenging, you will need a small mirror to get things cleaned/seated in prep for the new injector
Reinstall return line, torque spec is 22 foot lbs
Hardest part imho is reconnecting and torquing the hard lines at the IP end
I reconnected the lines at the injector end and semi snugged them, made sure they were properly routed so the retainers could be reinstalled then started reconnecting the lines closest to the block and torquing to 11 foot lbs then work my way around towards the fender side which is more accessible.
Torque the injector side of the hard lines and reinstall the retainers/brackets and button up the rest/reconnect batteries.
Turned over the motor for ~3 seconds and stopped, rinse and repeat to get fuel to the new injectors
On the 4th cycle it fired up and ran perfectly
Inspected for leaks at IP and Injectors and found none.
Need to bring it up to temp and take it for a ride/reinspect but I dont expect issues.
torque wrench and flare nut like attachments are your friend....as well as patience.
Observations: The 77 has just over 130k miles on it
Injectors I had pulled were marked 1-6 which leads me to believe that they had been serviced or at least inspected at least once prior.
The old ones dont look terribad but they are going to the local diesel shop for assessment and R&R for a future project.
Better safe than sorry and burn up a piston.
Not a lot to the job other than following the manual, hitting things with pb blaster a day before, taking photos of before state case of brain fart.
I was sure to label the pipes at the injector end and the IP end.
Keep things as clean as possible, I vaccuumed out the top of the head to eliminate possible contamination.
Loosten the lines at the injector and IP and remove the line retainers so you can move things out of way as needed.
Remove the return line
Started with #1, removed the injector, the silver colored seat/gasket that sits in bottom will come out with magnet, the brass colored seat will come out with a pick/small flathead.
Inspect and carefully clean out seat in prep for replacements with beefy q-tips you can get for cleaning firearms.
Seat the silver gasket and drop in the brass colored new replacement washer and screw in the new injector and torque to 47 foot lbs and put the plastic cover on the supply end to prevent contamination.
I put a very small amount of copper colored high temp anti sieze on the injector threads to prevent any future removal issues.
Rinse and repeat for other 5.....#6 is a bit challenging, you will need a small mirror to get things cleaned/seated in prep for the new injector
Reinstall return line, torque spec is 22 foot lbs
Hardest part imho is reconnecting and torquing the hard lines at the IP end
I reconnected the lines at the injector end and semi snugged them, made sure they were properly routed so the retainers could be reinstalled then started reconnecting the lines closest to the block and torquing to 11 foot lbs then work my way around towards the fender side which is more accessible.
Torque the injector side of the hard lines and reinstall the retainers/brackets and button up the rest/reconnect batteries.
Turned over the motor for ~3 seconds and stopped, rinse and repeat to get fuel to the new injectors
On the 4th cycle it fired up and ran perfectly
Inspected for leaks at IP and Injectors and found none.
Need to bring it up to temp and take it for a ride/reinspect but I dont expect issues.
torque wrench and flare nut like attachments are your friend....as well as patience.
Observations: The 77 has just over 130k miles on it
Injectors I had pulled were marked 1-6 which leads me to believe that they had been serviced or at least inspected at least once prior.
The old ones dont look terribad but they are going to the local diesel shop for assessment and R&R for a future project.
Better safe than sorry and burn up a piston.
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Ready to go on another trip. Hopefully this weekend for a few days
Sent a long term project home!
@stayalert flew in from VT and picked up truck and ready for a roadtrip.
Enjoy the HZJ74, Rob!
@stayalert flew in from VT and picked up truck and ready for a roadtrip.
Enjoy the HZJ74, Rob!
Now that the truck is mostly set up, I've been making good on my vision to use it for actual truck stuff. First was a load of firewood for next winter, about 2000lbs I'm guessing, hauled through steep mountain dirt roads. Then me and two friends (that's right, 3 adults in the front row!) took it to a mountain bike race with all our gear for the weekend. It was a hoot.
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I hate this design. Accessing wheel bearings and hub should be a straightforward job, but due to the hardline section being mounted to the brake shield, it makes it necessary to disconnect your caliper and brake shield fluid lines. It would have cost nothing to put the first hardline mount on the knuckle, and save an hour of cleaning and brake bleeding every time. Would love any hints on this job for future.
Been procrastinating finishing my winch PTO job - No fun crawling around on a wet driveway after dark. So I ordered a big box to replace interior bits that have been bugging me. Cracked dash and instrument plastics, a missing air vent, rubbers for the sliding windows, and a few little things to make the cruiser a bit more habitable.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I had a mechanic friend double check my rear drum brake adjustments.
He said they were set okay.
Brake pedal still slowly sinks under heavy pressure even after major bleeding operations.
Still cannot lock up fronts or rears.
[No pics of failure required.]
He said they were set okay.
Brake pedal still slowly sinks under heavy pressure even after major bleeding operations.
Still cannot lock up fronts or rears.
[No pics of failure required.]
Are you putting new felt dust "shields" over the bearings? I need to look at mine and see if they are encouraging rust beneath.
Probably the master cylinder bypassing internally.
