What did you do on your 70 series today? (25 Viewers)

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Had the old Fox shocks rebuilt, rears are around 50mm too long, as PO probably wasn't keen on calculations.
Valving is a bit conservative and high on the rebound relative to compression, but will probably do with this slow vehicle.

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Took it for a short test drive with the refurbished used wheels and new 235/85R16's and rebuilt shocks.
Everything seemed OK.
Articulation is fairly good having the sway bar removed, probably needs more weight, as loaded for a trip, to get the most of it, will probably need some rear bump stop spacers to accommodate for the too long rear shocks.
Found a nice spot to reflect on the suspension.

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Took it for a short test drive with the refurbished used wheels and new 235/85R16's and rebuilt shocks.
Everything seemed OK.
Articulation is fairly good having the sway bar removed, probably needs more weight, as loaded for a trip, to get the most of it, will probably need some rear bump stop spacers to accommodate for the too long rear shocks.
Found a nice spot to reflect on the suspension.

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Truck looks nice. I made a simple swaybar disconnet link on one side of my BJ73. Takes about 1 minute to remove the link. You get full articulation when it's delinked and then you hook it back up when you go back on the road for the trip home. A lot less body roll in turns and curves on the road with it connected.
 
I got this TLCA plaque as a Christmas gift last year but couldn’t quite figure out what to do with it so I had the folks at Odd Iron fabricate it into a receiver cap. 😁
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Truck looks nice. I made a simple swaybar disconnet link on one side of my BJ73. Takes about 1 minute to remove the link. You get full articulation when it's delinked and then you hook it back up when you go back on the road for the trip home. A lot less body roll in turns and curves on the road with it connected.
That is a great idea, and it is on my bucket list, however my rig drives so slow....and only about 2000 km per year, it will wait at least until I eradicate all the rust that is eating it, which is first priority.
Thanks for sharing 👍
 
Truck looks nice. I made a simple swaybar disconnet link on one side of my BJ73. Takes about 1 minute to remove the link. You get full articulation when it's delinked and then you hook it back up when you go back on the road for the trip home. A lot less body roll in turns and curves on the road with it connected.
@robmobile73 - do you have a pic that shows your custom disconnect link?
 
Finally go to use my winch today. I was checking out a route for tomorrows bike ride and ran into a bit of snow. I wasn’t really stuck but every time I tried to move forward I would slide farther over the edge.
I happy not to have my RTT mounted.

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@robmobile73 - do you have a pic that shows your custom disconnect link?
2x $15 rod ends from the "specialty hardware drawers" at a good true value hardware store mounted to the bar and chassis mount. Link is a piece of scrap I had with 2xbolts welded to it. Have to use unlock nuts. I can turn the wheel to the right and remove/install quickly with a crescent wrench. If you make it too big it will hit the leaf spring in articulation. Too thin and it will bend. Mine is a thin piece of angle reinforced with 1/4 rod and weld
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That looks really nice. Having those nylon pouches up above on the window is a great Idea as that area of vision is often covered up by spares/swingouts etc....

The OGS position is pretty much egal to the 2 spare on my rear bar so this nothing is sacrifice... however once I get the maxtrak and the outside pouch it might be a bit obstructed next week...
 
Decided while I'm replacing my dash plastics, I should stop putting it off and remove my heater core. Bought the truck with it bypassed. The rear one is still plummed, but pretty slow to warm the cabin. Oh man... I didn't know there were this many fasteners in the whole world.

I followed the decade old Mud post here, which was extremely helpful. I'm still a bit stuck trying to get the actual heater core out, won't separate from it's tubing 🤔

Planning to post a guide with photos when I'm done to help others doing this in future.

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@inalittlebit and I followed @Tigris tutorial on flushing the transmission on the KZJ78. Thank you for putting that together. It was a :banana: job with 2 people. Transmission was noticeably quieter and smoother on test drive. Would recommend to anyone baselining a new to them truck.

Now to order more parts to continue the baselining of that truck.
 
Update: I am stupid. The heater core tubing separates when you lift a little spring clips off that keeps them retained. I only discovered this after detaching my AC lines (thankfully already completely empty) and pulling the evaporator housing so that I could pull the heater core housing forwards enough to remove core with hoses fitted.

Also uncovered a hideous previous soldering job. Not surprised it was bypassed. Off to the radiator repair shop for rodding out and resoldering. Then to figure out where all these fasteners go...

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Also uncovered a hideous previous soldering job. Not surprised it was bypassed. Off to the radiator repair shop for rodding out and resoldering. Then to figure out where all these fasteners go...
When I did the heater core on our 80, I disassembled one weekend, reassembled the next...ended up with a few 'extra' fasteners. No rattles, so I called it a win.
 
Anyone know of a source for stainless brake lines for a 75 Troopy? Trying to replace all of the rubber lines w stainless. No luck w Cruiser Outfitters.
 

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