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What did you do on your 70 series today? (40 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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FJBen
SILVER Star
Great thank you! Is there a generic like T5 or style ?
Other than the OEM replacements, I haven't found anything aftermarket (LED or Non-LED). The locking base that @cruiserdan pointed out must be a Toyota or Yazaki thing only.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Thanks guys, guess I’ll be Toyota ordering 
You will need to go overseas for the 24 volt variant.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Good to know, thankfully the aussies got the 12v right so I’ll find a dealer here
I forgot yours is a 12V truck.
![IMG_20230519_204401~2[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='640' height='480' viewBox%3D'0 0 640 480'%2F%3E "IMG_20230519_204401~2[1].jpg")
What is the issue with them? Cannot get the screws out?
Back story
New to me HZJ77 with just over 130k miles, knew it was suffering from front axle inner seal issues as was evident from birf soup dripping down onto front tires.
Pretty much rust free, its unblelievable and a pleasure to work on a vehicle that is while older doesnt suffer from siezed/rusted EVERYTHING.
Before ordering gasket/bearing replacement and rotors....cuz why not I confirmed no birf clicking or clunking when turning tight radiuses while moving.
RF was worse then LF so I started there with the tear down.
My work environment is an open air garage with heavily compacted dirt floor.....its the land cruiser's native habitat.
Cover and body come off the electric hub no issue, hubs look good, plenty of contact materials
The electric face that holds the hub adj nut in place has 3 torx screws that hold it in place....torx and I have a long history of conflict....sorta like the english and the irish...lets not go there.
Based on the slightly deformed removal flats of the screws the PO had pulled apart front at least once.....every repair job is an installment of vehicle repair CSI......
I put a t20 bit into first screw and push hard into the hub face to ensure it doesnt weasel its way out and strip the flats it enguages with and apply pressure......<SNAP>
T20 bit snaps off not quite flush in the head......<lots of 4 and 5 letter words uttered> but its not quite flush and I was able to work the broken t20 head out and no damage to the screw.
Reach for a spare T20....rinse and repeat same method....<SNAP>.......SON OF A B*^&^*&%......second T20 bit snaps off but this time its flush......2 hours of creative persuasion trying to coax it out gently led to attempts to drill a hole into the remains of the hardened bit without damaging the surrounding screw.....
Yea.....y'all know how THAT turned out.....
It was having none of it....finally resigned to the dremel with a disk to slot it and managed to get it out with a flat head with minimal damage to the hub face....definately still usable but will have to procure more screws......anyone undertaking hub work on a vehicle with electric hubs should order several (all 6) replacements in advance....
I will be eliminating the electric hubs down the road sometime so no big deal and they are serviceable for a while.
Rest of the disassembly was pretty uneventful....essentally no grease left in the knuckle, it was all soup and not a lot of it at that unfortunately.
When I got to the inner seal it was obvious it had failed and the inner spring like structure had popped out and made contact with inner axle.
I'm inclined to say that the damage isnt enough to warrant axle
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You don’t need a new axle. Everything was classic and funny.
I would just clean up that axle with some Emory cloth. Get rid of any burrs especially as they would tear up your new seal.
And I would throw away whatever cheap Chinese toolkit your t20 bits came from and grab some good ones.
Kudos to you for your tenacity for sticking with it and getting the job done!
Owning a land cruiser has two potential results:
1. It will build character and help you learn a lot over time and you will create a bond with it and love it and keep it the rest of your life
2. It will drive you bonkers creating bitterness and eventually you will hate it and never own another
JDM Journeys
Moderator
I was supposed to go to OVERLAND EXPO in Flagstaff this year via the backroads, but a new job on May 1st made it difficult to arrange. I did manage to get out locally, though, and just came back from a 2-night weekender with my 9mo old puppy. She did great on her first trip, and slept soundly in her first two nights in an RTT...
270* awning was helpful for shade, and my Geyser shower was outstanding after a hot day yesterday.
But the stripes, despite all my reading to the contrary, didn't seem to add a single horsepower! Maybe I put them on wrong?
I do need to pull my cluster and check my grounds. The temp and fuel gauges did some moving around and when I was climbing hills on the highway, the temp rose suddenly to alarming levels, before coming back to half (which was still higher than comfort) so I don't really trust it. Okay, I never trusted it, but now even as a point of reference it's suspect...
270* awning was helpful for shade, and my Geyser shower was outstanding after a hot day yesterday.
But the stripes, despite all my reading to the contrary, didn't seem to add a single horsepower! Maybe I put them on wrong?
I do need to pull my cluster and check my grounds. The temp and fuel gauges did some moving around and when I was climbing hills on the highway, the temp rose suddenly to alarming levels, before coming back to half (which was still higher than comfort) so I don't really trust it. Okay, I never trusted it, but now even as a point of reference it's suspect...
@JDM Journeys …. “But the stripes, despite all my reading to the contrary, didn't seem to add a single horsepower!”
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That‘s a sure sign you installed them backwards.
** Your issue with the fuel gauge / temp gauge spiking together is not uncommon. Always seems to be a grounding issue.
—————————————————————————————————
That‘s a sure sign you installed them backwards.
** Your issue with the fuel gauge / temp gauge spiking together is not uncommon. Always seems to be a grounding issue.
Knuckle is in but it might be temporary
Upon disassemly there were two shims on bottom marked 30 each.....no shims on top
Bolts top and bottom torque to spec
Reassembled same......preload is barely hitting 5lbs and min is 6.6
Given the scale is new and probably isnt the most accurate piece of kit but I suspect its still on the low side
Probably gonna button it up and get my hands on the proper sst to sort out spec shims and do this side over in the near future.
Edit....gonna calibrate this scale against known weights and confirm source of issue
Edit Mon AM: Scale measures 1lb+ under known 8# weight....that brings pre-tension of the steering knuckle bearings up to maybe 6# and the mins range starts at 6.6
If anyone has any feedback on whether this is "close enough" or whether I should bit the bullet for the sst and do it by the book I would appreciate it.
In the meantime I need to find some "Castle Body Grease" (08887-02007) or equivalent which is allegedly "Molycote 44" for the electric hubs
Upon disassemly there were two shims on bottom marked 30 each.....no shims on top
Bolts top and bottom torque to spec
Reassembled same......preload is barely hitting 5lbs and min is 6.6
Given the scale is new and probably isnt the most accurate piece of kit but I suspect its still on the low side
Probably gonna button it up and get my hands on the proper sst to sort out spec shims and do this side over in the near future.
Edit....gonna calibrate this scale against known weights and confirm source of issue
Edit Mon AM: Scale measures 1lb+ under known 8# weight....that brings pre-tension of the steering knuckle bearings up to maybe 6# and the mins range starts at 6.6
If anyone has any feedback on whether this is "close enough" or whether I should bit the bullet for the sst and do it by the book I would appreciate it.
In the meantime I need to find some "Castle Body Grease" (08887-02007) or equivalent which is allegedly "Molycote 44" for the electric hubs
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New plates. So legal at least in this respect.
Used a little adapter for JDM to US plates. Drilled holes in the plate on my 77. Not legal in that respect.
Used a little adapter for JDM to US plates. Drilled holes in the plate on my 77. Not legal in that respect.
Well, decided to remove all doubt and spend more money cuz murphy struck on the knuckle shims and pre-tension was too low.....
SST ordered from trail tailor
Layout die for the SST ordered from the "G" vendor cuz nobody locally has any...$11 shipping for $12 spray can....
Replacement electric hub T20 nuts ordered along with replacement inner oil seal etc
Local dealership will have the precious overpriced Castle Body Grease" (08887-02007) tomorrow.....$70 for 7/10ths of a pound.....it as that or get it for $51 plus shipping.....its basically a wash either way.
Suggestion to anyone else who is servicing electric hubs....order replacement torx screws in advance....they're like $2 each.....3 per side. in my case they were p/n 90149-50055
Moral of the story....measure twice, cut once......I should have spent the coin on the SST right off the bat.....good news is that the second side should go faster.....and anyone doing a front axle for the first time might choose to do the right side first because it has the shorter inner axle attatched to the birf and is slightly easier to deal with.
OTRAMM has a great step by step on using the SST
Edit: Dont forget a set of calipers that can handle measurement greater than 6".....most sets handle UP TO 6 but you're going to have to be able to measure between 6-7" when using the SST.....
Surprisingly my local parts shops have nada.....
Found a couple options....you're gonna get made in china unless you spend a lot of money it seems
Grainger had a set I was least unconfortable with purchasing.....especially compared to the $50 harbor freight option.
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