Well aware! Heat alone takes much longer to clear windows. My suspicion though is that the heater will be a much easier fix. Please correct me if I'm wrong though?
What did you do on your 70 series today?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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your prolly not wrong, you already suspect fouled parts and the belt could be disco'd because the compressor is s***. having said that, it sure is worth the price to repair it.
ATL Cruiser
GOLD Star
Good question. Replacing the heater core is fairly easy. That's a DIY project in the garage one afternoon.
Diagnosing A/C can be tricky on your own. Thankfully, we have all the equipment at the shop. But if I had to do it with cans from AutoZone, I would be dreading it as well.
All finished up. works great. It was about 85 when I test drove it. Noticeably more power on the hills. I ended up wiring the
Water pump to the no longer used spill valve relay. Now I need to get a boost compensator so I can crank up the fuel a bit.
Water pump to the no longer used spill valve relay. Now I need to get a boost compensator so I can crank up the fuel a bit.
Relay end replacement put up a fight....didnt want to separate from the pitman arm......as usual a tool issue.....the best tool wasnt to be had.
One TRE remover would flex and slid off and the other was too wide to grip the edges
Solution?
Slide a pickle fork in to use as a spacer for the wider TRE remover to grip and BANG....we have separation.....but it was probably 3 trips to the parts store.....
Unfortunately I now have a collection of TRE pullers and none of them are very good.
Pic of OE and 555 replacement side by side.
Paint will happen soon
One TRE remover would flex and slid off and the other was too wide to grip the edges
Solution?
Slide a pickle fork in to use as a spacer for the wider TRE remover to grip and BANG....we have separation.....but it was probably 3 trips to the parts store.....
Unfortunately I now have a collection of TRE pullers and none of them are very good.
Pic of OE and 555 replacement side by side.
Paint will happen soon
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prwillard2
SILVER Star
I was planning to replace my TREs on my troopy. Just bought the entire setup from the middle east instead
Another good thing about AC in winter is it pushes the lubricant around in the pipes which keeps the rubber seals in good order.
Many vehicles have the defog connected to ac.
What would folks consider to be normal longevity (mileage) of oil seals on front axle before you start seeing leaks/birf soup and its time for R&R?
I'm inclined to say that 130k (miles) isnt premature for oil seal failure.
This vehicle doesnt appear to have seen much if any use off road or time in 4WD
Front vent was plugged and had gear oil in the tubing leading to the vent which I've cleaned out and continue to see seepage.
I'm debating whether to spend the money on the knuckle allignment sst's or just R&R with new seals/bearings
I'm inclined to say that 130k (miles) isnt premature for oil seal failure.
This vehicle doesnt appear to have seen much if any use off road or time in 4WD
Front vent was plugged and had gear oil in the tubing leading to the vent which I've cleaned out and continue to see seepage.
I'm debating whether to spend the money on the knuckle allignment sst's or just R&R with new seals/bearings
If it is about oil seeping only: Full knuckle job with seals and bearings is sufficient imho.
Just make sure you keep the original shims sorted and put back in accurately.
The adjustment with SST is only necessary if the shims are really badly corroded or damaged and/or your knuckle housing has been replaced, or you suspect something being messed up, e.g. you experience issues in tire wear you can't fix with normal wheel alignment.
Cheers Ralf
loaded question, new from factory? replacement seals with oil seal grooving starting on shafts?
manual hubs letting the axle shafts stay stationary? or drive hubs rotating the axles?
off road use shouldnt make much difference but plugged vent certainly does.
New to me 77
Vehicle is in unbelievable condition
Electric hubs which work and would produce a light on dash when enguaged
Based on condition it doesnt look like 4WD was hardly used
Havent torn it down yet....hoping to do so this weekend.....will report on whether or not there is grooving of axles
Have standard replacement seals and a set of heavy duty in case there's grooving/wear
From a 4x4 forum down under. You can’t say the Aussies don’t have a sense of humor. 
Hi RHINO, do you know anything about the process to convert a 1985 24V BJ70 to R134a? Hearing mixed information about what parts I'd actually need to swap. Are the R12 replacements any good?
sure, in a nutshell you HAVE to replace the dryer and all o-rings. you MAY need to replace the compressor, pressure switch and filter, but you dont have to for the swap, you just might need to soon after. you need to get 134 adaptors. then completely flush out the system and refill with R134 and oil.
use the guages to get proper fill pressures, you can also multiply the r12 charge by .9 and then subtract .25lbs for 134 equivalent but use guages
i have been lucky finding R12, and even have enough to do another refill if i need to replace a component, but i will most likely be swapping to 134 in the future myself, some folks have good luck, others never get a real cold a/c without replacing darn near every component.
@Honger did a good writeup on the Troopy specifically a/c 134 swap with pics ect..
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I found a shop with recovered R12 on tap.
AC is great for now.
AC is great for now.
You also HAVE to replace the expansion valve... they are gas specific.
Since I had the electric hubs swapped out for manual hubs, I had wanted to swap out the button in the dash to the single “H4” type, deleting the “hub lock” button.
I finally got around to doing it today.
The wiring harness surprisingly had the end female terminal for the single “H4” button. The terminal for the combo H4/hub lock is different. I guess the wiring harness was wired for both from the factory.
The “H4” is lit because my headlights are on.
I finally got around to doing it today.
The wiring harness surprisingly had the end female terminal for the single “H4” button. The terminal for the combo H4/hub lock is different. I guess the wiring harness was wired for both from the factory.
The “H4” is lit because my headlights are on.
Feels like its been a while since I've done anything on my 70 series...
Finally got the winch I 'won' at an auction last year operational and mounted up. Still need to finish up a few things on it, but it's bolted up and off my workbench.
Finally got the winch I 'won' at an auction last year operational and mounted up. Still need to finish up a few things on it, but it's bolted up and off my workbench.
Does anyone know what that bulb is that goes in there? Mine is out.