Builds Uglina is Back Thread ('78 Mustard FJ40) (4 Viewers)

[KY Longhunter]

What about flipping the springs? I've heard it will gain you an inch or more, but might have to relocate shock mounts.

Not recommending this, just throwing out on the table for discussion.

 

[subzali]

There is a locating pin through your spring packs that keep the axle located fore/aft wrt your springs. You would have to redrill your spring pack in order to move it back. I'm pretty sure your fore/aft positioning of your tire is correct; at least it should be with OME springs. You should be in good shape there.

To recenter your steering wheel you can also just pull the wheel off the column, move it a notch or two, and tighten it back down.

On the 2cm of threads, I would want there to be at least enough threads so that the clamp covers the full thread depth. 2cm seems slightly too narrow to allow that, maybe 2.5 or 3 cm would be needed?

 

[TEQ]

There is a locating pin through your spring packs that keep the axle located fore/aft wrt your springs. You would have to redrill your spring pack in order to move it back. I'm pretty sure your fore/aft positioning of your tire is correct; at least it should be with OME springs. You should be in good shape there.

Ok, I'll leave it is as is. Never mind.

To recenter your steering wheel you can also just pull the wheel off the column, move it a notch or two, and tighten it back down.

Didn't know that. Thanks!

On the 2cm of threads, I would want there to be at least enough threads so that the clamp covers the full thread depth. 2cm seems slightly too narrow to allow that, maybe 2.5 or 3 cm would be needed?

The clamps definately cover the full thread depth plus some. So I think I'm good.

 

[bsevans]

To recenter your steering wheel you can also just pull the wheel off the column, move it a notch or two, and tighten it back down.

Although you can do this, it is not the correct method. When done this way the roll pins that cancel the turn signals are not in the correct positions to cancel the turn signal as designed. One will take more steering wheel rotation and the other less rotation. This can result in the turn signal not canceling or canceling too soon.
The correct method is to have the front wheels oriented forward and then loosen the Bolts locking the Pitman arm and rotate until the steering wheel is centered. It does not take much if your steering wheel is close to being centered. As far as the bolts that control the wheel rotation/stop, you can put longer bolts in.

 

[PabloCruise]

I got it all figured out and fixed.

There's no lateral force on the drag link so I'm not too concerned about the fact that there's only about 2cm of threads inside the link on either end. Right?!?!

I would want a thread insertion of at least 1.5x the diameter of my relay rod in there. 2 cm sounds a little light...

Ok, another n00b question (although I don't really think I qualify as a n00b after almost 4 years of owning and working on my rig ).

After installing my lift it appears my rear axle is slightly too far forward. See in the picture below:

It appears this is easy to fix: Simply loosen the bolts holding the leaf springs to the axle and slide the axle to the rear about an inch.

Am I on the right track here? Am I missing something? Why shouldn't I do this?

I have seen this on many lifted 40's and I do not like it.

I opted to flip my rear spring pack. It gave me 4 inches of wheelbase. I had to lengthen my rear drive shaft and open up my rear wheel openings. I love it. It looks like how the factory should have done it.

You can read more here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/45757-downey-4-inch-lift.html

Although you can do this, it is not the correct method. When done this way the roll pins that cancel the turn signals are not in the correct positions to cancel the turn signal as designed. One will take more steering wheel rotation and the other less rotation. This can result in the turn signal not canceling or canceling too soon.
The correct method is to have the front wheels oriented forward and then loosen the Bolts locking the Pitman arm and rotate until the steering wheel is centered. It does not take much if your steering wheel is close to being centered. As far as the bolts that control the wheel rotation/stop, you can put longer bolts in.

On my '78 40, the roll pins are on my steering wheel, so when I pull my wheel to re-center it, it puts the roll pins back in the correct placement.

 

[Jacket]

You can also use one of these relocation plates to try and re-center your axle:

Toyota Axle Relocation Plates - Sky's Off-road Design

Not sure if this application will fit the FJ40 leafs tho, but there might be other options out there if not.

And in case it isn't obvious - for the steering wheel removal, you'll need a puller to pop it off.

 

[TEQ]

In order to fund the purchase of a lift for my garage I'm selling stuff. I've decided I'm probably never going to install the soft-top/bimini I purchased way back. So it's for sale.

I've just posted a classified for my Ehsan khaki canvas soft top, bimini top, and bows: https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/454825-khaki-canvas-paki-soft-top-bows-more.html

 

[TEQ]

Not only did I fund the lift with the proceeds from selling the top, I got a KILLER deal on the lift. It's a very slightly used Backyard Buddy 7000lb extended height lift. I paid $1000 for it!

I guess it's not what you know, but who you know...

[/IMG]

 

[Mikesta]

Not only did I fund the lift with the proceeds from selling the top, I got a KILLER deal on the lift. It's a very slightly used Backyard Buddy 7000lb extended height lift. I paid $1000 for it!

I guess it's not what you know, but who you know...

[/IMG]

Awesome TEQ, I'm in kirkland, I'll be over once every 3k miles to do an oil change!

 

[1978FJ4O]

Do you park the Porsche underneath it?

 

[TEQ]

Do you park the Porsche underneath it?

I will. It came with drip pans!

 

[1978FJ4O]

I will. It came with drip pans!

hahahahaha

 

[TEQ]

I've continued to have coolant leaks. Recently it got worse and looking under the rig as the motor was running showed it was coming from the water pump.

I could not tell if the water pump was bad or it was the gasket but I decided to just buy a new water pump and hoses just to make sure. I had replaced the hoses back in 2007 or so, so they still should be good, but I figure while I have everything apart to replace the pump I might as well put new ones it.

Today I started (and I hope to finish) the job. So far I have everything off and I'm ready to start putting things back together.

Here are some pics with commentary.

Using search here on Mud I found that I did not need to remove the front panel to get at the pump, what others recommended was to remove the hoses and belts, then the shroud, then the fan, and then the pump. This worked well with a few exceptions that are unique to my rig, I think.

Here's the new kit:

Here's what it looked like at before I started (note I still have to get that 'new' air cleaner cleaned up and powder coated...):

Evidence of the leak. I think the coolant I see on the drain nut has found its way there by running down the hose from the leak in the water pump. I am considering taking my radiator in someplace to have it tested. Do you all think this is a worthwhile thing to do?

Tinkle, tinkle, tinkle...

The bizzaro steering pump bracket that CCOT put on this rig back when they restored it continues to haunt me. When I loosened up the bolt that lets the air pump move to loosen that belt this bracket just fell free. As far as i can tell it was never welded into place, it was just jammed up under the steering pump bracket in such a way that when tightened down the air pump would not move. Total half-assage. I am not going to bother fixing this as it seems to work ok and doing it right would require removing the PS pump (again) and I really don't care to do that.

Even with the air pump loose, the PS pump bracket is such that it prevents the air pump from really moving as far as it should to loosen the belt. Getting the belt (i'm going to put new belts on since I'm in here) on is going to be a bitch.

The bolts for the water pump where REALLY tight. Thank God for air tools and thank God none of them broke. They were really rusty and I will use new ones when I re-assemble.

There was quite a bit of old gasket material stuck on there. I used a scraper and a wire brush to clean it up.

That's it for now. I'm going to head out and find some bolts and belts and get back to it.

Since the new pump came with a gasket, i'm not sure if I should use it or Toyota FIPG (?) gasket in a tube?

Do I take the metal plate off the new pump and seal it up too, or do you think it's good to go?

Thanks.

 

[bsevans]

You might want to consider Stainless Steel bolts. Since I went SS on the pump and thermostat housing I have not had any issues removing any of the bolts. I do use antisieze on all the bolts. If there is rust on the internal threads, I would clean them up with a tap before re-assembly.

 

[TEQ]

Good call on the SS bolts. Found some at Ace.

Done for the day; off to the Sounders match.

I still would like people's thoughts on whether

1) I should remove the provided gasket that's between the plate and the pump and use some FIPG.

AND

2) I should use the gasket SOR proviced with the pump or use FIPG (or both).

Thanks.

 

[TEQ]

On my way to the garage now to put the pump on. Given no direct answers here, I'm going with mixed advice from other threads and using both a little FIPG and the gasket between the pump and block. I'm leaving the gasket between the plate & pump as-is.

If you think this is wrong, speak up now...

 

[TEQ]

Woo-hoo! I did it. New water pump installed and leak free.

ALTHOUGH, that damn radiator drain plug continues to have a tiny leak. I wonder if it's not the plug but where the stem connects to the radiator. I knew I should have taken the radiator to be tested while I had it out. At least now I know how easy it is to remove the radiator.

I followed bsevans advice and re-tapped the bolt holes in the block. Pic:

I discovered that on of the new SS bolts which have larger heads than the OEM bolts wouldn't accept a socket head due to the design of this Aisan pump. On the factory pump it would have worked fine. So for one of the four bolts I used one of the old bolts.... but I cleaned it up good first. Oh well.

Here's a pic of the new pump in place. Shiny!

The biggest bitch getting everything back together was that air pump, as expected. Because the bracket that lets you adjust the air pump belt is not welded on I had to enlist my son's help for another set of hands with a crow bar to push the air pump to the side while I held the bracket in place and tightened the bolt. It's as secure as it was before (which isn't saying much except that the belt hasn't come loose in 4 years).

Having the lift was super-useful for this job. I was able to alternate between working from above and below with ease. Although I think next time I'll park further back on the lift so that the front cross bar isn't in my way. Still learning...

I'll continue to monitor that drain plug and if it continues to drip I'll just bite the bullet and pull the radiator out again and take it somewhere.

 

[TEQ]

Oh yea...

As I was checking the rig out after test driving it a while, I noticed something really shocking: The PS/AC/Alternator belt was rubbing (hard) against the air pump pully.

The power steering pump bracket is not straight (never has been; again it's a total hack job by CCOT) but I certainly don't remember noticing the belt touching the pully before. I know it didn't touch when I first got the rig. I suppose it's possible that it has been touching since I put the rebuilt power-steering pump back in. The old belt didn't show any obvious signs of wear.

I am pretty confident I didn't change anything else. But here you can see how badly the belt was rubbing. This is clearly not acceptable.

As I looked things over and pondered how this could be I was struck by two things:

1. Those idiots at CCOT are idiots. The biggest culprit is the PS pump bracket which is WAY out of alignment and can't be moved.
2. The guy who rebuilt my PS pump put the pully on backwards (or I put it on backwards if I shipped it to him without; I don't remember).

Note these two pics of the pully; you can see that it clearly "sticks out" more one side. Reversing how it's mounted would make a big difference in pushing the belts apart. So I reversed it.

This side WAS facing the pump.

This side is NOW facing the pump.

After reversing it the belt didn't touch the pulley anymore, but it was still really close. I decided that I wanted a little more safety margin so I crafted a washer for the pump spindle that would hold the PS pulley out a bit more. The spindle has a spine on it so I used a file to cut a groove in the washer:

Here's the washer on the spindle:

The down-side of putting a washer there is the bolt for the spindle now doesn't go on all the way. But enough of it does that I don't think it will come off. I put some locktite blue on there as well:

Here's a pic showing that there is now a nice gap between the belts. This pictures was taken with the motor running...

I love this s***.

 

[AATLAS1X]

Is there 3 bolt holes on the front left upper section of the block behind the nice PS bracket, I can't tell.

Shane

 

[TEQ]

Is there 3 bolt holes on the front left upper section of the block behind the nice PS bracket, I can't tell.

Shane

Why do you ask?

From before: Do these answer your question?