Builds Uglina is Back Thread ('78 Mustard FJ40) (4 Viewers)

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Good Restoration

This is not ugly, but the BEST restoration that I have ever seen.

Congratulations !



Here are a few pics I took today after putting the top on and cleaning her up a bit.

Enjoy!

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This is not ugly, but the BEST restoration that I have ever seen.

Congratulations !

Thanks, I appreciate hearing it. She photographs very well.

However, I don't think you've seen very many restorations, because I think _these_ are far better (and much deeper):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/203231-1981-fj40-restoration.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/52396-1973-restoration.html (It's a crying shame the photos for this thread are no longer available!!!!?!??!)

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/39575-1965-fj45lv-build-up-resto-thread.html
(Not a FJ40, but shockingly good).
 
Just joined forum and had to thank you for the great build thread. I bought a 78 40 also mustard about two weeks ago and am inspired by your work. Mine is also very original and needs work. So far all I have done is replace the water pump, belts and hoses. Thanks again for the thread.
FJ 002.webp
 
Just joined forum and had to thank you for the great build thread. I bought a 78 40 also mustard about two weeks ago and am inspired by your work. Mine is also very original and needs work. So far all I have done is replace the water pump, belts and hoses. Thanks again for the thread.

Welcome - nice truck - did you pick it up in the Bay Area?
 
Back to my original question:

Originally Posted by TEQ
A PO had installed a weber/OME carb. The most recent PO had removed it and put the original factory carb back on. I noticed tonight that the air cleaner assembly is not bolted to the block where it should be. The two pictures below illustrate. Note the missing fastners. It *feels* secure, but clearly this can't be good, right?
I've looked more closely at this. Bull thought maybe the air cleaner was from an older model, and that is why the bolts don't align. I actually don't think that's the case...the air cleaner looks different than his because the intake tube is missing the flex piece and final "horn". But the air cleaner appears to be the same model.

But those bolts don't align, and no amount of torquing will get them to.

The PO also had the manifolds machined to fix an exhaust leak. I thought maybe they really ground down the manifolds such that the carb was closer to the block, causing the mis-alingment. They would have had to take off 1/3" or so for this to be the case, and looking at the manifolds they don't look that thin. So I don't think that's it.

I think the carburator is the wrong one for this model. This would also explain why there are two emissions tubes (those little rubber guys about 1/4" diameter) that are not plugged into anything. In fact the whole emissions stuff looks horribly disfigured :confused:.

So: Is it likely that a carb from an older model mounts the air cleaner slightly further to the right, causing the misaligned bolt holes?

Going way back to a post from the first page of this thread...

This weekend changed my oil and while there I put the air cleaner housing I had purchased from a member on. Those paying attention will remember that I attempted to source one from a '78 and found one.

It fits! I have not yet installed my 'new' carb (which is also from a '78) but the 'new' air filter housing fits correctly on the '76 carb that is on the truck. It now is actually bolted into place!

Of course, being pulled from a parts truck it is really rough. I will be getting it sand blasted and powder coated at my first oppt.

In other news, I plan on taking the rig to a guy to install my '78 carb and hook up all the vacuum stuff for me. I simply do not have the time these days and with summer coming I don't want to run the risk of 'breaking' the rig and not being able to drive it. I'm taking it in to the guy this morning...
 
HELP -

My tcase has continued to leak via the shaft and I have had a mechanic pull it for me. He discovered the bearing races were shot.

In addition I've increasingly had problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. My synchros are clearly going.

While he had the tcase out of the truck, I asked him to also check the synchros and re-do the tranny.

He has discovered that "part # 33306-36016 ring sub assy" is no longer available through Toyota.

What is my best source of this part?
 
TEQ

Trying to find a exploded diagram of the transmission with that part number. I have found in the past that the assembly is no longer available, but the individual parts are.

Might be the case here.

I'm doing family crap this AM, but may have something for you tonight.

Might be a good time to convert to a H55 ;)
 
Hope they're legible.
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Last two pages.
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2nd Gear

Mechanic says the syncrhos, 1st gear & 2nd gear should be replaced.

Using SOR to source parts, using USED parts where possible, I'm going to be at close to $1000 just for parts! Nevermind labor.

s***.

So now I'm learning about H55s. A rebuilt H55 with rebuilt tcase is about $2900. E.g.
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat066.tam?xax=177&page.ctx=cat066.tam
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/transmissiontransfercase5speedrebuilt.htm

It looks like disc brake parking brake kits are available for about $300:
http://tsmmfg.com/4065.htm

Egads.

Maybe this is where I stop and step back. ... And cry...
 
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I have a 76 4-spd that's in pretty good shape. I'll pm you later with specifics.
 
I thought I had found a great deal (shipping!) on a newly rebuilt tranny/tcase via a friend. He had it rebuilt and then decided to go with a V8+auto.

I've been patiently waiting for him to get it shipped while my rig sits without an tranny in it and it's just not coming. His guy back east is apparently giving him a runaround...

So now I need to move to plan B.

The problem is I don't want to have spent all this time and just end up with a used tranny of questionable origin.

What is the best source of a rebuilt/tested transmission/tcase? Digging through the classifieds just seems like too much work with too great a chance of getting something that's not much better than the POS I pulled out of the rig.

From SOR: Rebuilt tranny $980 + Rebuilt tcase $995

At $2000 and the amount of time (and $) I've already wasted an additonal $900 for an H55 + $300 for the disc brake kit starts to make sense (in a stupid way).

sigh.
 
No. The H55 is ~4-5" longer than the H42, and you need a split case t-case to mate to the H55.

However, you do lose the park brake off the back of your 1 piece case.

So I think the distance is close, but I would budget for some driveshaft mods.

Also, the shifter on the H55 comes out a little closer to the rear of the vehicle unless you can find a top shift plate from an original equip H55 40...

And you need to mod the park brake cable to reach the rear axle - make sense?

Keep us posted!
 
I need to find a mechanic for this.

What's the current hourly rate for a good wrench who knows these rigs?

Any recommendations in the Seattle area. I'd do the work myself but life's other priorities mean I do not have the time. I want this rig back on the road ASAP.
 

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