1968 FJ40 Put 'er back together thread

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Spike Strip

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Acquired this 1968 FJ40 about 7 years ago and like many with Cruiser-fever had big plans: Promptly started pulling things apart and purchased lots of parts and read, read read. Bought an Orion that Mark of Mark's Off Road assembled and mated to a NOS early H41. This was going to be my down ' dirty trail rig. She seemed like good bones: A recently swapped in rebuilt 1977 2F (at time of purchase), OME lift/shocks. Some rust, but not too extensive. Nice-patina Capri Blue with Top and Doors in good condition for 45 years old. No documentation on the rebuild (local So Cal shop), but compression numbers were all around 160ish. Ran well, though a little sloppy, and price was fair.

Well, the world turned but I stopped. So she's sat since then, protected and covered with multiple tarps and local stray cats to keep the mice away. 🐈🐀

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I've found some new vigor and am back at it while the weather is accommodating. But my plans have changed.

I've never done a build thread, and this isn't going to be one exactly, more of a help me put-her-back-together in stock form thread. And rather than post individual questions, as I run into them, this seems to be a more organized way to document. Hopefully, those of you more familiar will follow along to provide guidance since it has been many years and some pieces of this puzzle aren't well-documented on MUD (I've searched) and my memory is a bit beer-addled.

Maybe this thread can help future others who may run into the same issues, as there seems to be a lot of 'unfinished' early FJ40 projects that pop up in classifieds. :)

At the time, I had Bought a nicely rebuild steering box from Mark's Off Road. Just this week installed it :D but it took a few days to puzzle out the three-on-the-tree reassembly. Unfortunately, I've misplaced the 'TOYOTA' horn button. :mad:

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Brakes:

When Rainey was still making brake lines, I pulled the front lines apart (4-wheel-drum) and sent him the bits to use a patterns. Well, I never got them back, including unions, or new lines, so I bought a 9mm SS kit from Cruiser Corps back then, and now have to puzzle that out using FSM and SOR diagrams.

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Looks like the brakes had been redone. Don't know if this is OE or aftermarket hardware

Anybody know the name of this type of lockout hub?

Is there a manual online?

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Ok Google image search wins:

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Appropriate Video:

 
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I just sent all my remaining Dualmatic hub parts to @Drake2. I would inspect them carefully before deciding to reuse them. I only ever saw one set explode, but the explosion was pretty dramatic.

It will be nice to see all those parts finally see the light of day. 😊

IMO, I would plumb in a dual circuit master while the brakes are that accessible. You can still use 90% of the kit you already bought. You just take the two 9mm fittings off the one replacement line that comes off the single circuit master and put one on each end of your yet-to-be-purchased Vatozone 10mm lines. The junction by the starter ground strap will service the rear, and you just seal off the front circuit at the 3way by the battery tray.
 
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If you’re not set on having an OEM Toyota horn button you might be able to snag a 3d printed one from a member on MUD.

 
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Yeah, I'm pretty bad with documenting stuff:

Some progress, though.

New SS lines are all in. This was quite a job as all the old flare nuts absolutely refused to be removed without vise-grips and a slide hammer. All the unions then needed to be hit with the 9mm tap. Used all new copper gaskets from Chyna as the Toyota ones proved hard to get, for some reason.

I also found that whatever brand of wheel cylinders the OP used, a couple of the bleeders were not machined correctly and were not drilled all the way through, so no wonder the OP couldn't get the brakes working.

BUT - the rescue came as the two speed bleeders Mark sold me 10+ years ago (bottom photo -- and I actually found them!). I couldn't believe the brown gunk that came out of those cylinders after properly bleeding.

NOS Japanese single Master Cyl that leaked out of the rear seal. Had to take it apart and remove all the machining shards. Rebuild kit and good to go.

Mark's rebuilt Steering box installed and filled with oil and after a lot of head scratching, the column shift assembly installed. I'm finding it very stiff for the 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. 1st and Reverse, no issues.


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Setback that may keep me down for a month:


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Filled up the Radiator and pressure tested the system and found it had more holes than Bonnie Blue. Took it to this excellent Radiator shop in Northridge:

For anybody in the Los Angeles area, this is the shop that does all of K&Hs radiators as well as SOR and bunch of other shops that restore antiques. Ask for Marshall.

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If you turn the flywheel a little bit, shifting might be easier. 1st/reverse only rely on the output shaft. 2nd/3rd relies on alignment between the input and output. Synchros obviously help, but you could be in that half-tooth no-man’s land.
 
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I've been squirting PB Blaster into the cylinders and turning the engine over by hand, but pretty sure the transmission is in neutral. Will try moving the gearbox and see how that goes.
 
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