Bad bushings will cause some of that...and those are bad. That shackle mount does look a little out of whack too. Check the frame where that steering box attaches. They can develop cracks and weaken the frame if they are not reinforced properly.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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40LandCruising
Anderson
My frame has big plates welded inside and outside on either side of the front frame horns so that’s good. And that picture is deceptive but in person the shackle hanger appears flat. I guess my best bet is to order bushings and install them and if it’s straight great and if not order new spring hangers. I just don’t want to ruin new bushings once I install them
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Another 60 body up on the twirler getting the fire wall and underside stripped and primed. Lizard Skin Ceramic (sound control) and heat shield to follow, all topped off with a couple coats of black paint.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Caveat emptor! OTC is now officially the worst tool supplier in the country. After three months and two vendors, my OTC orders were never filled; the vendors blamed it on OTC's warehouse move (which they also claimed was complete in July). Call me crazy, but if your business model is buying, stocking and selling specialty tools, maybe being able to keep track of them should be important to you.
Even though it's not the prettiest, at $25USD (and solid steel) and only one week to ship from the Antipodes, I'm calling it a 100% value increase over the $98USD OTC version (which I still do not have in hand).
Finally, the longest tool order fulfillment in history is complete! ...and the rear wheel bearing job can be completed.
![20210925_104356[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1440' height='1920' viewBox%3D'0 0 1440 1920'%2F%3E "20210925_104356[1].jpg")
Even though it's not the prettiest, at $25USD (and solid steel) and only one week to ship from the Antipodes, I'm calling it a 100% value increase over the $98USD OTC version (which I still do not have in hand).
Finally, the longest tool order fulfillment in history is complete! ...and the rear wheel bearing job can be completed.
Out with the old and in with the new. New radiator and water pump on the black 80.
Expansion tank seems to have a small rusty crack..... got a new one, turned off water drained the tank. Cannot get the old one off and if I break the pipe it's on I'll have to open up the wall to replace...... s o for the first time ever ill.need to call "some guy" to my house to take care of it as I'm too busy for the next two weeks to worry about it.
Maifold back from the ceramic coater.... getting closer.
Filter is temporary before I get a custom box built.
Just need to get the egr probes one and order on more hose and I'll have all the needed parts.
Filter is temporary before I get a custom box built.
Just need to get the egr probes one and order on more hose and I'll have all the needed parts.
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You prefer the lizard skin over the rubber stick down stuff? My 80 needs some sound and heat control. Going to pull the interior and spray the floor and debating products. Opinions welcome.Another 60 body up on the twirler getting the fire wall and underside stripped and primed. Lizard Skin Ceramic (sound control) and heat shield to follow, all topped off with a couple coats of black paint.
I see Paris, I see France....Another 60 body up on the twirler getting the fire wall and underside stripped and primed. Lizard Skin Ceramic (sound control) and heat shield to follow, all topped off with a couple coats of black paint.
Helped install front and rear bumpers from MetalTech on a friends GX yesterday. Still have sliders to install. Can’t say enough good things about the build and fit of the MetalTech bumpers.
40LandCruising
Anderson
I present, the pinnacle of the redneck engineering I’ve done in my apartment parking lot in Clemson. Made only from the finest scavenged goods. Cheap angle iron I found 2 years ago in a trash pile on campus. Wrenches I found in a tool bag on the side of the road in the mountains. And nuts and bolts provided by the SC DOT street sign department. And now I can use my half doors!
And yes I filed down the nasty edge from my grinder cut job.
And yes I filed down the nasty edge from my grinder cut job.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
might want to radius that elbow slicer
40LandCruising
Anderson
Yeah I give it 5 days tops before I jab myself and take it back off and smooth it out
Clemson Engineering major?
Well that didn’t last long. Had a used arb with 9.5k winch pop up on marketplace.Well, I wasn’t planning on messing with the silver on the bumper since I plan on installing a ARB or something in the future. It looks kinda weird being mismatched for now though.View attachment 2731156View attachment 2731157
I still have to do the wiring and a few other things but it’s on.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Tex has had the floor and fire wall stripped, cleaned within an inch of it's life, primed and a double dose of Lizard Skin. The doors, quarters and roof will get similar treatment.
Before I dedicate a thread I thought I would toss this out here. Battery goes bad, I replace it. Test the alternator, it fails, I replace it. Drive to AutoZone to pick up a voltmeter, install it at home and it shows 17 volts at 2000 rpm. Confirm with my multimeter that it is closer to 18. That explains going through 3 batteries in three years. Ordered a OEM VR from Toyota dealer but it won't be here for a couple weeks, meanwhile I got a solid state VR from Napa.
Plug it in and now my alternator/battery is showing 12.5v at idle on up, drops to 11.9 if I turn on every accessory I've got. I disconnected the wire from the battery to the alternator (it doesn't go through ammeter) and the alternator output slowly dropped to zero, I expected it would kick up to 14v when the battery got down close to 12v.
Battery gets down to 11.9, I hook the cable back up to the b post on the alternator and everything is back to 12.5.
A couple questions. 1) I was to understand that it really should be closer to 14.5v at idle. It's a solid state VR just THAT GOOD that it keeps it within 0.5v no matter what?
2) did I potentially fry something in the new alternator by driving it about 3 miles with it cooking at 18v
3) the PO did some wiring. My blue/white wire comes out of my harness and goes straight to my battery. The alternator is wired straight into my battery. It's my understanding the blue and white should go from the B+ on the alternator through the ammeter on the dash, and back out to the battery. Is something wonky going on potentially with it hooked directly to the battery?
Plug it in and now my alternator/battery is showing 12.5v at idle on up, drops to 11.9 if I turn on every accessory I've got. I disconnected the wire from the battery to the alternator (it doesn't go through ammeter) and the alternator output slowly dropped to zero, I expected it would kick up to 14v when the battery got down close to 12v.
Battery gets down to 11.9, I hook the cable back up to the b post on the alternator and everything is back to 12.5.
A couple questions. 1) I was to understand that it really should be closer to 14.5v at idle. It's a solid state VR just THAT GOOD that it keeps it within 0.5v no matter what?
2) did I potentially fry something in the new alternator by driving it about 3 miles with it cooking at 18v
3) the PO did some wiring. My blue/white wire comes out of my harness and goes straight to my battery. The alternator is wired straight into my battery. It's my understanding the blue and white should go from the B+ on the alternator through the ammeter on the dash, and back out to the battery. Is something wonky going on potentially with it hooked directly to the battery?
What is the battery resting voltage?
The alternator should put out upper 13s or low 14s when charging. The voltage will drop with accessories and headlights on, but with all that off, you should be reading upper 13s at least.
Are you saying the alternator control wires are connected directly to the battery? That's an issue. The alternator positive output going directly to the battery is not an issue AFAIK, that's how my truck has been for forever. Not sure if a 40 is different.
Probably didn't fry anything more than some bulbs by running it at 18v.
The alternator should put out upper 13s or low 14s when charging. The voltage will drop with accessories and headlights on, but with all that off, you should be reading upper 13s at least.
Are you saying the alternator control wires are connected directly to the battery? That's an issue. The alternator positive output going directly to the battery is not an issue AFAIK, that's how my truck has been for forever. Not sure if a 40 is different.
Probably didn't fry anything more than some bulbs by running it at 18v.
Thanks for the reply.
Resting voltage is about 12.4, I can confirm that this afternoon.
Wires going from the VR to the Alternator are going through the original oval green plugs (and conversion pigtail that came with). The only wire leaving the alternator goes from the B post to the battery (minus an extra ground strap I installed on the alt bracket).
It sounds like I may have just gotten a bad VR then.
