TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)

[Malleus]

Current project: rebuilding a Kawasaki FD501V, water cooled, V-twin from my John Deere LX188 lawn tractor (not mower, the mower works fine, it's the tractor I have a problem with).

Current situation: the resident geniuses at JD decided, in their infinite wisdom, that sandwiching the frame between the lower engine case and the drive pulley/PTO would be an ideal design solution. Note: this requires anyone wishing to remove the engine to first remove the bolt in the lower end of the crankshaft, remove the PTO and then remove the engine drive pulley, prior to removing the engine, which is required for access to the pistons, camshaft, oil pump, etc.

Current problem: after fabricating a puller (neither my 2-jaw nor 3-jaw pullers did more than bend the flanges), I now have drive pulley separated from its shaft, and the engine on the bench. I now have to remove the drive pulley shaft from the lower end of the crankshaft, so that I can continue with the teardown. As you can see from the photo, the pulley shaft (a far-too-complicated and expensive part, IMPO) has a 1.5" hex (across flats) and is situated 0.185-inch from the lower case face. Neither of my pullers will fit in there, and if I grind the jaws down to fit in, I have no confidence that they won't break.

I could grind the shaft off the crank, (which, BTW, isn't hardened and is NLA), but I can't reach the upper end, even with a small die grinder wheel. The best I could do it get to within 0.5-inch of the top and then I'd still have a 0.25-inch thick section, 0.5-inch long, to deal with. So far, the Oxy torch has proven useless. I can't pry against the case; it's cast AL (and NLA).

Short of fabricating a means (welded ears) to grab the pulley shaft, I'm at a loss to remove it with the tools at hand.

Any suggestions leading to a removal would be appreciated.

 

[Malleus]

EDIT: FWIW, the only solution I've come up with (short of welding, that is) is to use a split bearing puller (which I don't have).

For those with a burning desire to know more, the crank journal below and under the pulley shaft is Ø1.00-inch and the journal above the hex is Ø1.25-inch. The hex and shaft is 2" long and the crankshaft extends 1.125-inches below the pulley shaft.

The lower case, at its nearest point is 2" above the hex, so even if it were set up on a mill (with the crank horizontal), I'd need a 2" deep shell mill cutter to cut through it, or else a really long 2.5" end mill (which I wouldn't try, but that's just me).

Based on what I see, and what I've read, the pulley shaft is RIP (rusted in place); which is a real PITA, because this thing's been in NC since it was new (I bought it used form the dealer who sold it new). It should be a slip fit. The PTO fell off in my hand.

 

[jamesurq]

Simple stuff here. I'm going to swap out the motor mounts and here's my problem:

front axle is in the way to use a jack to lift the motor
Tall truck - I don't have a hoist at all - pretty sure most wouldn't be tall enough anyway.
Any creative solutions?

 

[Malleus]

So, on a lark, and because I had an hour in the middle of my day that I wasn't using paying my mortgage, I trucked down to Harbor Freight to pick up a bearing puller. Because who doesn't love an excuse to buy a new tool (not that a tool can be bought at Harbor Freight).

PSA: the Pittsburg branded Harbor Freight bearing puller is not made of steel, although it appears to be steel. I believe it is actually made of something very near salt water taffy. At least, it performs like I would expect salt water taffy to perform, if it were used as a bearing puller. The fork threads stripped easily, as did the spindle threads. Hard to see in the photos, but the joining studs, which hold the two puller halves together, bent until the halves hit the pulley shaft. Then they stopped bending.

FWIW, my fabricated puller, made of 1/2" CRS, and the Gr. 8 bolts I spec'd did not fail.

Result: another trip to Harbor Freight, this time to pick up the $45 dollars I loaned them against the tool they pawned me. The shaft is now 0.205-inch away from the lower case, a gain of 0.020-inch. And I still don't know how to get this thing off.

I did manage to use about half a short bottle of acetylene, too.

Another stat, for the curious: the hollow shaft wall over the key is 0.075-inch thick. So that's where it's getting cut, as soon as I figure out how to do it.

I big hooray to the Ebay seller who sent my replacement pulley. Two days before it was due. Thank heaven for small favors.

And that is absolutely the last time I consult a lark for tool or repair advice.

 

[roadstr6]

Finished up Bucky's roof rack.

 

[Malleus]

After ten good minutes with a 2" die grinder...Success!

This is, without a doubt, the Rube Goldberg-iest tool setup I have ever been responsible for.

...and, if anyone can explain why this spindle is needed to support the engine drive pulley (the one with the hex is OEM, the one beside it is the Eaby prealcement, supposeodly of the same model), I'm all ears. You cannot, BTW, reach the hex to hold the flywheel to remove it (which would have been a great idea...if you could reach it, but you can't because the pulley's in the way).

There may be a tool I own that I didn't use, but I can't think of what is was.

 

[FJ Noob]

Not technically “wrenching” per se, but made some good progress on the 80 in between soccer games and other events.

Got the headliner pulled out and pulled the factory luggage rack off. After removing all the adhesive from the center strips and hitting the top side of the rivnuts with a flap disc, I was able to get all holes welded up.

I cleaned up the inside of the roof and hit all the welded areas with a healthy shot of primer. I even had enough time to get about half of the inside roof covered in sound deader. I think another couple days and we can finally start getting the interior reinstalled.

 

[FJinTegaCay]

As my job has been requiring long hours during the week, and my honey-do list is lengthy, I somewhat happily paid Dean’s guys at H&H Automotive in Charlotte to (finally) replace my rear main seal, clutch, oil pan gasket, and motor mounts.

As the 40 is my daily driver and the likely original seatbelts were already quite sun-bleached when I purchased the truck nearly 12 years ago, I sent the seatbelts to Safety Restore to be re-webbed and serviced while it was under the knife. Thanks to @roadstr6 for the recommendation. They were returned in exactly one week. As promised, they stitched the OEM tag to the new material.

 

[FJ Noob]

 

[White Sheep]

View attachment 2631982

Same as everytime I think something will be easy to change or fix

 

[FJ Noob]

Same as everytime I think something will be easy to change or fix

Haha....remember...you’re always only one broken bolt away from that 20 min project turning into a weekend long ordeal!

 

[FJ Noob]

Welding is done and two layers of sound-proofing went in tonight. First some Kilmat butyl and then some 250+ mil closed cell foam hood insulation.

Not a ton of work done, but a little bit every night keeps the progress moving forward.

 

[White Sheep]

Welding is done and two layers of sound-proofing went in tonight. First some Kilmat butyl and then some 250+ mil closed cell foam hood insulation.

View attachment 2632235

Not a ton of work done, but a little bit every night keeps the progress moving forward.

Damn your going to work on that. Are you sure its your wife's? Im sure your going to do a lot more to it, why don't you make a build thread?

 

[FJ Noob]

Damn your going to work on that. Are you sure its your wife's? Im sure your going to do a lot more to it, why don't you make a build thread?

Minus the welding, I just supervise and provide technical assistance. I probably will start a thread though.
Her’s is in the garage, so I have to wait until good weather to work on my 60 project and will need to set her off on her own. We’ve got big plans that involve both trucks if we can get them ready in time...MTF.

 

[White Sheep]

Minus the welding, I just supervise and provide technical assistance. I probably will start a thread though.

Ah. . ok. Good deal.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Replaced the oil pressure switch and temp switch in the 40 as to have working gauges on my way to meet n greet

I should have stopped there...

Sheared both thermostat bolts.
Does anyone know off hand the size bolt to replace these. Gonna try and get to Ace before it closes

 

[GLTHFJ60]

M8x1.25 off the top of my head. Not sure on length unfortunately.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Thanks!

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

A few heat cycles last night and multiple Kroil applications.

I let it soak in Kroil overnight. Fingers crossed I get these out easily and on the road to meet and greet

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Not going anywhere. Have fun at Meet n Greet.