TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)

[SFROMAN]

ASKING FOR SOME HELP PLEASE!!!

replaced the brakes on my ferd becasue my rear passenger caliper seized on me.
so I replaced both rear calipers pads and rotors.

going to go ahead and replace pads and rotors in the front tomorrow.

here is the problem. I bled the brakes as I usual and they are still not working very well it still feels like there is air in the line. I have to push them al the way for them to barely work.
Not sure what I did wrong or if possibly the master brake cylinder is shot?
Not sure. But I need the tow rig working perfectly because I need to head to Wisconsin Saturday very early in the morning.

I am hoping I’m just an idiot and didn’t bleed the brakes correctly or it’s something that can be easily diagnosed and fixed.
Either way. I am really in a bind and would appreciate the help tommorow, any time that works for me.

 

[NCFJ]

Hey Del, Best I can tell you is bleed them one more time. I've done just that more than once and the brakes came up. Just takes one stray bubble.

 

[SFROMAN]

Yeah. That’s the plan tomorrow. Like I said. Hope I’m just an idiot and messed something up

 

[JohnVee]

@SFROMAN Did you let the master cylinder, or whatever more modern vehicles have (accumulator?), get low? That would probably mean it needs a bench bleed AFAIK. Otherwise, check that your connections aren't leaking and bleed again.

 

[SFROMAN]

It never got close to being low.
I already bled them 4 times.
no dice.
not very easy by myself though.
I am sure I can recruit someone that lives near me to come by tomorrow to lend me a hand.
really need this truck working properly. Will be hauling long distances every weekend for the next month.

 

[mtweller]

It never got close to being low.
I already bled them 4 times.
no dice.
not very easy by myself though.
I am sure I can recruit someone that lives near me to come by tomorrow to lend me a hand.
really need this truck working properly. Will be hauling long distances every weekend for the next month.

I can probably swing by tomorrow night Del. Maybe 8ish.

 

[FJ Noob]

With help from @MyWhiteSheep today, we got the front end torn apart and started going after the usual 80 series oil leak culprits and staging for new parts install. Pretty uneventful overall...just 2 oil pump cover screws needed to be drilled out...but it felt good to make some meaningful progress today.

 

[lt1fire]

It never got close to being low.
I already bled them 4 times.
no dice.
not very easy by myself though.
I am sure I can recruit someone that lives near me to come by tomorrow to lend me a hand.
really need this truck working properly. Will be hauling long distances every weekend for the next month.

Get a motive power bleeder. Worth its weight in gold.

 

[FJ Noob]

I acquired a new tool today that allowed me to convert a factory oil pump cover bolt hole into a $30 oil pump cover bolt hole!!

I also managed to install the new water pump, put on a new crank pulley, and clean a lot while everything is out of the way. Tomorrow should be valve cover gasket, dizzy gasket, and put things back together.

 

[White Sheep]

I acquired a new tool today that allowed me to convert a factory oil pump cover bolt hole into a $30 oil pump cover bolt hole!!

View attachment 2688583

I also managed to install the new water pump, put on a new crank pulley, and clean a lot while everything is out of the way. Tomorrow should be valve cover gasket, dizzy gasket, and put things back together.

@FJ Noob ensure you mark and see where the distributor (and rotor) is prior to pulling it out. This will save you a huge headache with the engine starting/timing.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@FJ Noob ensure you mark and see where the distributor (and rotor) is prior to pulling it out. This will save you a huge headache with the engine starting/timing.

Can confirm.

 

[SFROMAN]

Get a motive power bleeder. Worth its weight in gold.

I borrowed Sean’s.
Thanks Sean!!
I most def have to get one now.

 

[fourtrax]

not sure what adapter you have for the power bleeder but, this one has served me well over the years

Toolsource.com - Toyota Brake Bleeder Adapter TOY18B - Assenmacher Tools

SpecificationsManufacturer: Assenmacher Specialty ToolsModel Number: TOY18BProduct Name: Brake Bleeder Adapter for ToyotaWeight: 1 lbDimensions: 4 x 4 x 4 inchesKey FeaturesPrecision Fit: Designed specifically for Toyota vehicles, ensuring a secure and leak-free connection during brake bleeding...

www.toolsource.com

Assenmacher TOY18B Toyota Brake Bleeder Adapter for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Assenmacher TOY18B Toyota Brake Bleeder Adapter at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[NCFJ]

The 18B fits the 80 series size MC cap. Anyone have a part # for one that fits the 60?

 

[lt1fire]

The 18B fits the 80 series size MC cap. Anyone have a part # for one that fits the 60?

Not sure about the 60 but I do know there are some vehicles that don't have one yet. I had to build my own for the LS430

 

[fourtrax]

whats the diameter of the 60 inside lip of the plastic reservoir ?

 

[JohnVee]

not sure what adapter you have for the power bleeder but, this one has served me well over the years

Toolsource.com - Toyota Brake Bleeder Adapter TOY18B - Assenmacher Tools

SpecificationsManufacturer: Assenmacher Specialty ToolsModel Number: TOY18BProduct Name: Brake Bleeder Adapter for ToyotaWeight: 1 lbDimensions: 4 x 4 x 4 inchesKey FeaturesPrecision Fit: Designed specifically for Toyota vehicles, ensuring a secure and leak-free connection during brake bleeding...

www.toolsource.com

Assenmacher TOY18B Toyota Brake Bleeder Adapter for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Assenmacher TOY18B Toyota Brake Bleeder Adapter at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Same here. Works great on the 80’s, when I can find whoever I’ve lent it to! I probably purchased it at your recommendation.

 

[NCFJ]

Installed 62 power windows in a 60. Hardware will be replaced with low dome pan head screws
Turn down your sound before you hit play

 

[White Sheep]

Giving a big thanks to @fourtrax and @4LowandSlow for changing my rear output shaft bearings on my transfer case. I've been having a terrible growl for yrs and got worst when adding height.

We went for a test drive and thought everything was solved. Well at the speeds it use to growl during acceleration/deceleration, it doesn't. Now it's at higher speeds and a lot less severe. This is still a win in my book.

 

[Malleus]

The holiday weekend's project: replacing Sarah's starter (the solenoid was sticking).

A little background first: during last month's cold snap, Sarah called from Tuscaloosa and said her '94 wouldn't start. It was parked in the lower level of the parking garage. She called back later that afternoon to say it had started, and to ask if it would be OK to drive. I told her to have at it and park it in a surface lot or on top of the deck (I suspected a solenoid gremlin). Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I pulled the starter off my '95 and put all the tools in my bag, gassed up the (other) truck and lit out for Tuscaloosa. Sarah was due to leave after graduation the next weekend and I didn't want a call from the road saying she was halfway to Auburn and the truck wouldn't move (for some other reason).

On the (IMHO) very unlikely case that the babbitt at the bottom of the ignition lock cylinder was toast, I pulled that too.

Got to Tuscaloosa, crawled under the truck and cracked the front (upper) mounting bolt loose. I could get the rear (lower) mounting bolt loose, but couldn't get it out, no matter what I did. I declared failure and prayed for warm weather. I did get lunch at Newk's out the deal, though.

I ordered a new solenoid and took to the road again.