TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)

[GLTHFJ60]

Turned out that everything inside my front axle was bad. Check this out:

But now everything is good. Cost about 10x what I expected, but everything is back together with a few upgrades:

 

[40LandCruising]

Turned out that everything inside my front axle was bad. Check this out:

But now everything is good. Cost about 10x what I expected, but everything is back together with a few upgrades:

Good lord you did have major water intrusion!

 

[JohnVee]

I didn't know Lexus made 60's. Or 1-tons.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Good lord you did have major water intrusion!

Yeah, surprised me too. That's what bad inner axle seals, and a lack of maintenance, will get you.

 

[40LandCruising]

Is it alright to use this grease to pack my knuckles? It says moly but also says ford Lincoln Mercury.

 

[jfz80]

Perfect. Thats what i prefer.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Perfect. Thats what i prefer.

I second that motion!

 

[40LandCruising]

Ok, I almost have one side down and I messed up. I don’t know where but I can’t pull my axle out enough to get the snap ring on. Any ideas?

 

[jfz80]

What year was donor and your truck?

You may have the earlier short birf and newer thicker drive flange but i thought they were both 94? Got an early flange? May have to tighten up the one you have to see as well. At least 3 nuts

Pull harder ?

 

[40LandCruising]

What year was donor and your truck?

You may have the earlier short birf and newer thicker drive flange but i thought they were both 94? Got an early flange? May have to tighten up the one you have to see as well. At least 3 nuts

Pull harder ?

I thought everything was 94, I’ll do more investigating after I eat lunch.

 

[40LandCruising]

I somehow needed up with the wrong drive flange. My other was good though so I guess now I have a spare thick one.

 

[roadstr6]

I somehow needed up with the wrong drive flange. My other was good though so I guess now I have a spare thick one.

Anderson,

I may have accidentally put the drive flange from my '97 axle onto the '94 housing when I swapped over the brake calipers. This has me wondering if I have the '94 flanges on my '97 axles. If I made that mistake in haste, I apologize. That whole axle swap was a blur.

Hey, 80 series gurus, Suppose I did swap the '94 flanges onto my '97 axle by mistake. Could that cause potential issues? Too much lateral movement of the axle? Inquiring minds want to know! @40LandCruising @4LowandSlow I may need to swap flanges with y'all. Let's see what the experts say. I will pull my front wheels tonight to see what flanges I have on there. Funny thing is, I got the snap rings on all the axles with no problems so I would think that if I had made this mistake, I would not have been able to get the snap rings on the '94 axle with the '97 flanges before I gave it to Garrett. Damifino??? I need to just look at what I have.

 

[roadstr6]

I just checked my drive flanges and they are correct for my truck. To be honest, I don’t remember there being a difference between the flanges on my ‘97 axle and on my ‘94. As I said, snap rings were installed on the ‘94 axle prior to Garrett taking it. Maybe my ‘94 axle was a factory fluke with long flanges, or maybe it was updated (replaced)? My truck is an 11/93 so it should be before the long flange changeover.

 

[40LandCruising]

I just checked my drive flanges and they are correct for my truck. To be honest, I don’t remember there being a difference between the flanges on my ‘97 axle and on my ‘94. As I said, snap rings were installed on the ‘94 axle prior to Garrett taking it. Maybe my ‘94 axle was a factory fluke with long flanges, or maybe it was updated (replaced)? My truck is an 11/93 so it should be before the long flange changeover.

So I have two different flanges on my truck, a skinny one on the passenger side with the birf from Garrett. And the wide on on the other side. And everything seems to fit perfect. The snap rings fit on just right.

 

[40LandCruising]

Completely finished the knuckle rebuild today, it was messy but I feel confident it is correct. But the brakes are another story. Got new rotors, pads, calipers, and soft lines installed on the front and bled. When the truck is turned off and you press the pedal there is pressure. But once you crank it and hit the pedal it goes to the floor. We checked all four corners and have a good stream of brake fluid coming everywhere. Any ideas on what’s going on? And it started idling rough again, I fixed this before with new 02 sensors but I’m not sure this time.

 

[fourtrax]

Did you bleed the lspv. Underneath the driver side, in front of the rear tire?
I usually bleed in this sequence
Pass rear
Driver rear
LSPV
Pass front
Driver front

 

[jfz80]

How did you bleeed the system?
Pedal pusher or mechanical? If you press the pedal all the way to the floor you can push the booster rod past its normal travel range and get a leak there. Hopefully not, but i always put a board or some stop to keep the pedal from going to the floor.

 

[roadstr6]

Anderson, you are not the first person who has had trouble bleeding brakes on an 80. For what it's worth, whenever I crack open the brake system, I take extra measures to limit the amount of air that can enter. The less you let in, the less you have to bleed out and the more likely you will get a firm pedal. Here's what I do:

Remove master cylinder cap and put a piece of plastic bag or saran wrap over the filler and re-install the cap. This acts like putting your finger on the end of a straw and will eliminate or at least slow down the amount of fluid loss at your broken connection point.

Clamp soft line ahead of your break-in point with a pair of vice grips to seal the system. If you are breaking loose a hard line, plug it with a golf tee to seal it up as soon as possible after you break the connection.

Pre-fill new calipers with brake fluid prior to install. You'll never get them totally full, but any amount of air space you can fill with fluid before bleeding is a good thing.

Bleed in the order Eric suggested above.

My theory (unconfirmed speculation) with bleeding 80 brakes is that the calipers hold more fluid than the master can pump. If you have dry calipers, the first time you push the pedal, they don't completely fill up. When the pedal is released, air from the caliper gets sucked up into the lines and it takes a lot of time and quarts of brake fluid to bleed out the trapped air.

Good luck!

 

[40LandCruising]

Did you bleed the lspv. Underneath the driver side, in front of the rear tire?
I usually bleed in this sequence
Pass rear
Driver rear
LSPV
Pass front
Driver front

I did not bleed the LSPV, I didn’t know that was a thing.

@jfz80 I bled using the pedal, I think I was careful to not overpress it, but I will look at he booster for a leak.

@roadstr6 I am going to try bleeding the LSPV first, and if that doesn’t work i’ll Have to go morenin depth. I lost a lot of brake fluid when chaning the softlines because he passenger side one took forever to get treaded into the hard line.

 

[roadstr6]

There is a soft line that drops down to the center of the axle from the engine bay (the one you either replaced with a longer one or extended the bracket when you did your lift...hopefully). If you clamp that one off next time, there will be less fluid loss and air intrusion. Same basic center soft line setup for the rear as well.

Several folks have had good success using a reverse bleeding tool which pushes the fluid from the calipers back toward the master cylinder. To me, this method makes a lot of sense as you are pushing the air bubbles up in the direction that they naturally want to go and not down toward the calipers. I've never used one myself.