TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

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No point in separating the two past easier inspection and cleaning if youre not switching sides, which i do not suggest unless you have some clicking.
 
Pretty sure Only upper shims on an 80 axle as they were designed.

From a mud post soewhsome.


Toyota got smart with the later Curisers-on the 80 series it runs no shims on the bottom, so you don't need an SST and you just add or subtract the top shims to get the preload you want. It's a much easier design to work with.

You are 100% correct. I was mistaken in my post above, I will correct it. Looked it up in the FZJ80 FSM just now. Exploded diagram for reference.

Good to know!!

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Good to know this info about the 80 knuckles. I assumed they were like the 40/60/62 with upper and lower shims and all that fun stuff. "Relics" are all I've had open to this extent before. Thanks for the update. I'll file this away in a dark corner of my brain for future use.
 
Ok, I'm glad I wandered over here into the middle of this discussion as I am getting ready to rebuild the knuckles on the 40. I have only ever messed with 80s to this point so this talk of bottom shims and centering tools is new to me. So am I to understand that if I want to rebuild the knuckles on our 40 that I need the SST to make sure things go back together properly? Or can I just keep up with the shims to put it back the way it came apart?

Thanks
 
@jynx as long as you are keeping the same knuckles as you took off, and keep the shims in the same position as they came off, then you'll be fine. Only time you need to use the knuckle centering SST is when you change knuckles or knuckle balls (housing).
 
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So I’ve noticed my 80 likes to mark its territory and I did a little investigating as to what all was going on. I knew I had a front pinion leak and a power steering leak. I already have the front pinion seal and plan to do that after my knuckles and brakes. The power steering wasn’t as clear though. It appears it is leaking from where a rubber line off the resivoir enters the pump(?). I don’t know what this entails but I hope I don’t have to replace the pump.
 
I jave a rebuilt pump avail as well as a core if you want to tackle the rebuild and drop in when ready.
 
A good spray down with simple green and then pressure washing will make it so you can locate the source of the leak much easier. I try to keep engine/trans/t-case as clean as possible at all times for that reason.
 
i've never had 100% success in stopping ps pump leaks. I've replaced them entirely, new hoses, new clamps, new o-rings... still every time they leak some eventually. I've even replaced the cap on the reservoir but eventually, there is PS fluid leaking on something.

One thing i've seen somewhere and i've actually considered is making a shield for my alternator so if it get's dripped on with PS fluid it will protect it from ruining the alternator. I've seen it done with a simple cutting up of a plastic soda bottle and zip tying it.
 
Did you get your power issue fixed?
For the most part ,but I'm going to get my pump and injectors rebuilt as a preventative measure.
 
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Started on my knuckle rebuild, got it on jackstands and pulled the tires last night. I’m starting with the passenger side, today I got the hub and rotor pulled and discovered some things. My wheel bearing was trashed! And I mean as bad as it could be. Someone has also been in there before, the nuts were slightly boogered before I started and it was missing three of the cone washers on the hub. I think I may need a new spindle as well, once those nuts came off the threads are looking iffy.
 
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Grease Question- once I get to reassembly, is this grease good to pack my knuckles with. It was the only moly grease they had at Napa, I bought two tubes. Figured I could use a grease gun to fill the knuckle through the fill plug on the top of the knuckle.
 

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