What brand master did you buy?
Two pumps to make front brakes work??
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It sounds like leakage between the front and rear chambers. Also, I have to ask....the master is a single cup style not a dual cup?
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- #23
Yes, single cup, with the little hose to the front circuit.
I forget the brand. Cardone?
The problem is essentially no different than it was with the old OEM master, however.
I forget the brand. Cardone?
The problem is essentially no different than it was with the old OEM master, however.
Have you tried adjusting the pushrod to the master? start by lengthening it a little
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- #25
Found the problem.
See anything wrong in this pic?
See anything wrong in this pic?
brian
SILVER Star
don't be silly, those are drum brakes.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
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- #29
Oh har har. I removed the caliper.
I guess I should have said "what don't you see?" in the pic. For example, the usual ridge of rust around the outside of the disk??
Wheel bearings on that side were baaadly loose. The disk was wobbling all over the place, retracting the pads, and eventually striking the caliper. I have no idea how I didn't notice this sooner!
No noise, nothing.
I guess I should have said "what don't you see?" in the pic. For example, the usual ridge of rust around the outside of the disk??
Wheel bearings on that side were baaadly loose. The disk was wobbling all over the place, retracting the pads, and eventually striking the caliper. I have no idea how I didn't notice this sooner!
No noise, nothing.
All I can say is, "I'm glad you're ok"... Could have been very bad.
Hate to bring this up but I'm having the exact same problem. I have replaced calipers with Toyota remans and aftermarket (cruisercorps) master cylinder. Bled the brakes 100 times EXACT symptoms as described. Also my brake indicator light on the dash is coming on when pedal is depressed.
roma042987,
I too am having this problem. I have a 1971 FJ40 with stock rear brakes and front disc conversion, actually used the front axle out of a 1977. I bought a porportioning valve for discs from SOR and a new booster and master cylinder (2 cup style), both aftermarket. Ever since the build was done the brakes felt a bit off to me. No visible fluid leaks but the pedal goes about half way down with almost no pressure then gets stiff. I can press hard and it will stop but not very well. If I pump them a couple times and stomp on them the rear brakes will lock up. I too have the light on the dash coming on when I press the pedal about 1/3 of the way to the flood. I bought the FJ in pieces so I cant say what they felt like before. I thought it was air so I bled it twice but still felt off. I brought it to a garage here in town and they bled it and it flet better but still not right. I thought the booster might be a dud but I dont want to throw one of those at it until I can confirm. I havent adjusted the booster since the initial install. Any help would be great as I recently had to park this since it is getting worse and is now unsafe.
I too am having this problem. I have a 1971 FJ40 with stock rear brakes and front disc conversion, actually used the front axle out of a 1977. I bought a porportioning valve for discs from SOR and a new booster and master cylinder (2 cup style), both aftermarket. Ever since the build was done the brakes felt a bit off to me. No visible fluid leaks but the pedal goes about half way down with almost no pressure then gets stiff. I can press hard and it will stop but not very well. If I pump them a couple times and stomp on them the rear brakes will lock up. I too have the light on the dash coming on when I press the pedal about 1/3 of the way to the flood. I bought the FJ in pieces so I cant say what they felt like before. I thought it was air so I bled it twice but still felt off. I brought it to a garage here in town and they bled it and it flet better but still not right. I thought the booster might be a dud but I dont want to throw one of those at it until I can confirm. I havent adjusted the booster since the initial install. Any help would be great as I recently had to park this since it is getting worse and is now unsafe.
Loose wheel bearings will do that.
skully3
SILVER Star
Not sure of the set up you have. Make sure that the calipers on on the correct side. If the bleeder is on the bottom instead of the top you will never get all the air out and have spongy front breaks.
I checked the wheel bearings and they are right. I do have a bit of movement from the trunion bearings on the passenger side so will need to throw a kit at that. The calipers have the bleader at the top so that's OK. The one thing I did see on both sides is what looks like a bit of fluid leaking from the year old calipers. Not a lot of fluid but shouldn't be happening. Think this could cause pedal loss? Seems to me I would lose the pedal and not get it back with a leak.
That could be the problem. If fluid can get out air could get into the system.
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This.
Same problem, except mine is all drum, single stage master cylinder, 1970 FJ40. The brakes have about 14K miles on them. The master, wheel cylinders, shoes, etc. are a Cool Cruiser complete kit which was installed by the mechanic doing so much work on this rig from December 2012 until March 2014 when we finally got it registered. But......the brakes have ALWAYS required pumping to get good stopping action. Recently I moved many new parts from my '70 to my '79. With it done and working I wanted to move my $1,000 worth of brake stuff over. I took the right front off of the '79, then did the same to the '70. Oops, the '79 has FJ45 front brakes, lines are different, drums are larger, shoes are wider. So I put the right front back on both vehicles. On the '79 I followed a tip I found here on Mud about adjusting the shoes up tight on the drum before bleeding. I then used my Mity-Vac without success. So I used the jar with a hose approach. The same tip for adjusting the shoes spoke about immersing the hose into the fluid in the jar and cracking the bleeder and then slowly pumping the brakes and then tightening the bleeder screw. This worked fine, good brakes. So now the '70 is back together but of course I need to bleed the brakes since I had the right front cylinders off. Such fun trying to adjust the front shoe on the front side of an FJ40. It just flat sucks. The only way I can find to do it is to remove the drum and adjust the front shoe until you can just get the drum back on, which isn't as close to the drum as one really wants that shoe. So I crack all eight bleeders and slowly pump the pedal and put a stick between the tool box and pedal to keep it from coming up and sucking air. This of course allows brake fluid to dribble down the inside of the tire, but it gets fluid moving through the bleeders. Then I close them up and start at the right rear. After going around twice I found that I still had some bubbles at the right rear. So I decided to use two hoses and one jar and went around twice again. Of course anytime you move from one wheel to the next you now have air in the bleeder hose so as soon as you crack the bleeder under pressure you are going to get bubbles as the fluid pushes through the line. So by slowly pumping the pedal and then holding it down with a stick (the pedal will of course come up some because of the length of the stick, but not all the way up) I move about half a master cylinder of fluid through the lines. But, there is always the "but", when I'm done the pedal will push nearly to the floor, two pumps and it is hard as a rock. If air in the lines is spongy, why do I have to pump to get a hard pedal?
Whi
You cannot get all the air out through the nipple as there is a chamber above the port.
I pulled the top piston out and raised the fluid till it was level with the top of the cylinder then reinstalled the seal and piston slowly pushing it down whilst holding up the two lower pistons.
Which rear brakes fo you have? If you have the 1 1/8 double piston ones you have to bleed them either on a bench or with the shoes off.
You cannot get all the air out through the nipple as there is a chamber above the port.
I pulled the top piston out and raised the fluid till it was level with the top of the cylinder then reinstalled the seal and piston slowly pushing it down whilst holding up the two lower pistons.
If the brake pedal is spongy, it needs bleeding. If it is firm, it needs adjusting. Don't screw around with bleeding gimmicks that don't work. Use the two person method that works all the time, even if it means you have to get a friend, family member, small child or girl friend to help out.
