Turn the key, no start...intermittent (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Threads
26
Messages
223
Location
Santa Barbara, CA USA + Todos Santos, BCS, Mexico
Website
www.johnalex.net
Have had this for a while.

Usually, but not exclusively, when starting for the first time each day turn the key and...nothing.

Wiggle key...nothing.

Hold key to the far right...nothing.

Then, LC just fires up. Most days, that's it. But, occasionally, this happens after turning off the ignition and coming back after shopping or stopping.

Have used different keys. Same results.

Do I need a new ignition module? Starter? Driver? ;)

TIA,

John in Baja
 
Do yourself a favor and run a jumper lead to the ignition prong on the starter solenoid :banana:

The next time you get a no-start, put a meter on the lead and see what kind of voltage it's getting as you crank :hmm:

If it's little or none, you'll know the problem lies either in the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch :meh:

Best of all, you'll be able to use the jumper wire to start it by simply touching it to the battery :cool:

If it's getting full voltage, then you'll have to work on the starter itself (check cables, connections, contacts, etc.) :wrench:
 
Identical symptoms to my 23 year old failed starter. Replaced it. No problems since.
 
Mine does something like this, Try seeing if you can put it in neutral.

I'll see if I can report my findings.
 
I had this too. Same advice as Snakeater. I actually ran a wire and a push button switch between battery positive and the starter solenoid. The problem is that your 20 year old wiring can't pass enough current from key to the starter solenoid to overcome 20 years of wear, dust, and grit within the starter contacts to make a sufficient connection. I assume you have plenty of battery when this thing won't kick over. Search on mud a little more and some guys wired in a relay from battery to starter solenoid to aid the weak key switch. Actually the weak key signal tells the relay to send battery positive to the solenoid so you can still start with the key. If the starter motor is strong, then you may also only need to replace the contacts. Pretty easy with the starter out on a bench. 3 small kits can be ordered from Toyota to rebuild the contacts.
 
I've had this same issue for a few weeks since replacing my starter contacts. I need to dig into it a bit more but it's looking like I just need a new starter. Sometime it starts on the first turn of the key, other times it takes a few times of cycling the key to get it to engage the starter, then it fires right up.
 
Do yourself a favor and run a jumper lead to the ignition prong on the starter solenoid :banana:

The next time you get a no-start, put a meter on the lead and see what kind of voltage it's getting as you crank :hmm:

If it's little or none, you'll know the problem lies either in the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch :meh:

Best of all, you'll be able to use the jumper wire to start it by simply touching it to the battery :cool:

If it's getting full voltage, then you'll have to work on the starter itself (check cables, connections, contacts, etc.) :wrench:


Awesome check list! Thanks!
 
I had this too. Same advice as Snakeater. I actually ran a wire and a push button switch between battery positive and the starter solenoid. The problem is that your 20 year old wiring can't pass enough current from key to the starter solenoid to overcome 20 years of wear, dust, and grit within the starter contacts to make a sufficient connection. I assume you have plenty of battery when this thing won't kick over. Search on mud a little more and some guys wired in a relay from battery to starter solenoid to aid the weak key switch. Actually the weak key signal tells the relay to send battery positive to the solenoid so you can still start with the key. If the starter motor is strong, then you may also only need to replace the contacts. Pretty easy with the starter out on a bench. 3 small kits can be ordered from Toyota to rebuild the contacts.

Is this the kit?
Amazon.com: Starter Repair / Rebuild Kit for Nippondenso 1.0kw, 1.2kw, 1.4kw, 1.6kw, 1.8kw 2.0kw Gear Reduction Starters (Inc. Plunger & Solenoid Contacts): Automotive
And, do I need more than one?
Or, should I order direct from Toyota? Dan?
 
I have the exact issue with mine. Also had the same issue with my 3rd gen 4R; replaced the starter on it and it never happened again.

Looks like I'm buying a new starter for my Angry Panda too.
 
The plunger in the starter doesn't like being cold. Or even cooler than in the summer. That is why you are noticing problems when it has sat. When it is hot, the starter (due to proximity to the motor) is warmer. Therefore the plunger works fine.

FWIW, I used a starter from AutoZone because I have heard numerous stories about the OEM reman starter coming dead in the box.
 

Actually, check out this link in the 80 Series FAQ's on how to replace starter contacts. Part numbers of the kit are in the thread. I buy OEM whenever possible cuz I hate fixing stuff twice.
Starter Motor Contacts
I gave Cdan a call and he knew what I needed on the spot. Just make sure you know if you have the 1.4 kW or the 2.0kW starter.
 
I ordered the contacts but I replaced the starter anyway. The contacts are just waiting to go back in. It takes 30 min to change out the starter. I'll do it when I get around to it.
 
Try shifting into neutral, does it start?
@Tools R Us why do you ask if it starts in neutral? I ask because I tried this & it started right up. I'm about to purchase a starter, but not sure it's really the starter. It seems like a senser or something... when she starts it a good quick start, everything sounds & feels like it should.
 
Literally just had the same issue. New starter fixed it.


Sent from my iPhone
 
What's up with the neutral trick though?
What trouble shoot trick is that?
Hmm, curious minds want to know...
 

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