No start 8/93 production date (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Jun 26, 2005
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124
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800
Location
Wet side of Washington
Last year my 94 stopped starting while in park, It’s not a daily it’s mostly in storage.
Recently it stopped starting in N , it seemed like a battery issue.
Would charge it for a day and it would crank right up.

No it just won’t start with the key, I disconnected the wire at the solenoid.
Tried a jumper wire and it fired right up,
I have tried searching, and found several threads about neutral safety switch. They all seem to apply to the other style neutral safety switch on the later model.

Is there any known? Wiring harness issue I could take a look at for starters.
I use my meter on the back of the key. It doesn’t appear to be the key switch.
 
I have tested the fuseable link.
I strongly suspect a harness issue. With the evolution, from not starting in park to not starting a neutral. Just leads me to believe there’s some kind of issue in the wiring.

When I say, I used to jumper and it started right up, I put an alligator clip on the battery
And removed the wire that would go to the ignition from the starter solenoid
With the key on, and making contact at the solenoid it turned over and started right up
 
Look in the front drivers side wheel well between the firewall and the top of the transmission. It’s just below the PHH. I bet you have corroded connections for the NSS plug. Hopefully yours doesn’t look mine did before I fixed it. The pics are from my 93. I replaced the crimps with new oem connectors and solved the issues I was having. I hope this helps.

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ill have to look for the part number. I couldn’t find it on my phone. there might be a connector list in the resource section.
 
I replaced that connector just last weekend. I finally have reverse lights and the PNDR12 on the dashboard. Same issue, coolant corroded the connection.

Hope you can find one. I got mine from the junkyard but honestly you can just cut it out like shown above. Just use waterproof butt connectors and tape it well and you'll be fine.
 
Input requested, I separated the plugs and all the terminals look fine. So I didn’t cut the harness.

Here’s were I am at, Initially the rig stopped starting in P.
About a year later it stopped starting in N intermittently (I chalked this up to a weak battery)
It would start in N if I changed the battery overnight

Then this stopped working as well, I had assumed originally that my NSS was bad

I have a good battery, have tried to jump the started from the battery (car starts right up)

I was thinking I had corrosion at the harness plugs at the NSS. They look clean no indication of corrosion,

I don’t want to jimmy rig a starter button, any other input on were to look?

Is there a way to test the ignition switch?

HELP

Tested the ignition switch, seems to function correctly no issues.
Now to figure out the path from there.
NSS? how to test it
 
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Have you measured the resistance across the park neutral switch? Either at the switch, or at the connector, or even further up at the ECU? If it's more than 1 Ohm or so it's no good.

See table with which pins should have connectivity when, here: Neutral Start Switch (NSS) Removal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/neutral-start-switch-nss-removal.1344958/post-15610374

Also note that the park/neutral safety function has two pins completely separate from the gear indicator switch. In practice this can mean that e.g. "P" or "N" is lighted up in the dash, but you still can't start the engine bc those other two pins for the park/neutral safety are not making contact. I have it in mine that the "P" position is a bit itchy like that, maybe slightly misaligned.
 
So to review- I am a dumbass
Somehow I elected to ignore the imitation symptom.
The initial symptom was the vehicle would not start in park, it would only start in neutral.

Somehow, I ignored that and went ahead and went into the rabbit hole of corroded harness plugs,bad key switch, corrosion in the fuse block.

If I had just troubleshot the original problem, check the continuity of the NSS in Park. I would’ve quickly learned my NSS was bad.

I took a spare NSS I had a part, clean the terminals put some new grease. Carefully inspected the connections, tested it prior to installation. And its working correctly, the NSS isn’t that hard to
swap. I really don’t understand what my issue was,

I did read the FSM, on how to test the switch as well a couple right ups here on Mudd.

I was ready to let it go, I was tired of looking at it and frustrated. Fortunately, it’s not for sale.

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