Builds Turbo 1FZFE FZJ80 Build (5 Viewers)

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Hey Brett how is the truck driving? AFR's still looking good?
No. We were having issues with a knock sensor being bad. I had replaced one that was visually bad during the build, but the other that passed visual needs replaced. Timing was being pulled and causing high EGTs. We'll no more shortly...
 
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how could you tell it was a knock sensor? I ask because i'm getting an occasional PO420 code and even though i cannot hear any pinging, around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM i can feel the truck power cutting back. I'm assuming it's due to the O2 sensor with the CEL but i can't confirm that. I did have one of my knock sensors break when i was rebuilding my motor and i replaced it with a used one.
 
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how could you tell it was a knock sensor? I ask because i'm getting an occasional PO420 code and even though i cannot hear any pinging, around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM i can feel the truck power cutting back. I'm assuming it's due to the O2 sensor with the CEL but i can't confirm that. I did have one of my knock sensors break when i was rebuilding my motor and i replaced it with a used one.
Baktash checked the codes. Not sure which code it was, just that there was a knock sensor code. I just bought a new "OEM Toyota" knock sensor on ebay and when it arrived it was not OEM. Seller is refunding full price and I am sending it back. We bought the OEM (twice as $$$) to replace it. On an FI truck Baktash strenuously recommended the OEM knock sensor and it doesn't take much thought to agree with his reasoning.
 
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Yeah I replaced both of mine when I did it as well, they are in a precarious spot when doing all that work. Big builds like that always have some little bugs to work out, sounds like that is an easy one though.
 
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how could you tell it was a knock sensor? I ask because i'm getting an occasional PO420 code and even though i cannot hear any pinging, around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM i can feel the truck power cutting back. I'm assuming it's due to the O2 sensor with the CEL but i can't confirm that. I did have one of my knock sensors break when i was rebuilding my motor and i replaced it with a used one.
The knock sensors will detect knock way before you can audibly hear it.
 
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Baktash checked the codes. Not sure which code it was, just that there was a knock sensor code. I just bought a new "OEM Toyota" knock sensor on ebay and when it arrived it was not OEM. Seller is refunding full price and I am sending it back. We bought the OEM (twice as $$$) to replace it. On an FI truck Baktash strenuously recommended the OEM knock sensor and it doesn't take much thought to agree with his reasoning.

New OEM Toyota Knock sensor installed. No more codes, timing is not being pulled due to knock response anymore.
 
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The drive home was entertaining. The truck is a beast.

AFRs are much better now at 8psi. The truck now starts off in boost with NO LAG. The torque converter starts grabbing at about 2700 rpm (give or take 100 rpm) and the turbo is fully spooled. It sounds like a quiet race car now with the high stall and the straight thru Magnaflow in place of the baffled Flowmaster.

Transmission kit arrived yesterday. Next order of business is to get the tranny shifting tight.

More thanks to Baktash.
 
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The URD FTC was installed last week and I did some base mapping yesterday and today, while parked with the lap top plugged in for power. The AFRs are now safe staying in the 12s and below, but still not optimal with some low RPM areas (1500-2000) under load going too rich down to 9s and 10s. I have not yet been able to road tune due to a bad replacement lap top battery, but I am supposed to have a new battery by the end of the week. Once I can watch the fuel map while moving it should be pretty simple to finish tuning. Meanwhile, Thursday the Transgo shift kit and fresh synthetic fluid goes in along with 4 new U-Joints and balanced drive shafts.
 
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The URD FTC was installed last week and I did some base mapping yesterday and today, while parked with the lap top plugged in for power. The AFRs are now safe staying in the 12s and below, but still not optimal with some low RPM areas (1500-2000) under load going too rich down to 9s and 10s. I have not yet been able to road tune due to a bad replacement lap top battery, but I am supposed to have a new battery by the end of the week. Once I can watch the fuel map while moving it should be pretty simple to finish tuning. Meanwhile, Thursday the Transgo shift kit and fresh synthetic fluid goes in along with 4 new U-Joints and balanced drive shafts.

Buy a cheap inverter and plug the laptop on. Best investment for a tuner ;)
 
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Buy a cheap inverter and plug the laptop on. Best investment for a tuner ;)
Oh yes :clap:, I have a couple of those though the nice one needs to be hardwired in. The other one plugs into the cig lighter outlet. I'll check to see if it works tomorrow, but I still need to wait till Thursday for the U-Joints to get replaced. They are really bad now.
 
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Two things have caused a short delay.

The Transgo reprogram kit (a reprogram kit can be considered a shift kit, but a shift kit may not be a reprogram kit) required more modification than expected (Transgo makes a shift kit and a reprogram kit for the A343F). The reprogram kit requires drilling in the valve body, but the result will be even firmer shifts (probably too firm for stock hp and a stock TC) than the shift kit as well as the elimination of 3rd gear shifting to 4th without the O/D button being engaged. Apparently the reprogram kit takes twice as long or more to install than the more simple shift kit. BTW, Transgo makes their kits for the A343F, but not the A442F.

The other source for delay was that the rear drive shaft was slightly twisted as a result of a rock dent and shock load. The rock dent has been there for a while, but the new wave of modification probably contributed to the twist via increased shock load.

The new drive shaft is inbound from Houston and the truck should be back on Monday. Then it will be back to tuning...
 
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U-joints, drive shaft, and the Transgo reprogram kit were all done Monday. The transmission now shifts with very short, positive shifts and feels firm. I was finally able to take the truck for a spin without having to watch the gas needle visibly drop while I drive. The URD fuel timing calibrator was installed 2 weeks ago and I've spent several hours a day over the last few days tuning. I now have the AFRs in the high 14s low 15s while in vacuum crossing over 0 vacuum at 13 and into boost in the 12s, 11s, and down to high 10s as pressure increases. Still a little rich at the highest pressure, but very driveable. I should be able to get it even tighter tomorrow.

I plan to visit Baktash next week to track down a minor oil leak and also to change the spring in the waste gate for some more boost. :eek:

The truck runs very well cruising (starting out requires some technique and takes some getting used to with the high stall speed), but it opens up like an absolute beast from any throttle position. Looking forward to doing a dyno run in the not-so-distant future...
 

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