Hey Brett how is the truck driving? AFR's still looking good?
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No. We were having issues with a knock sensor being bad. I had replaced one that was visually bad during the build, but the other that passed visual needs replaced. Timing was being pulled and causing high EGTs. We'll no more shortly...Hey Brett how is the truck driving? AFR's still looking good?
Baktash checked the codes. Not sure which code it was, just that there was a knock sensor code. I just bought a new "OEM Toyota" knock sensor on ebay and when it arrived it was not OEM. Seller is refunding full price and I am sending it back. We bought the OEM (twice as $$$) to replace it. On an FI truck Baktash strenuously recommended the OEM knock sensor and it doesn't take much thought to agree with his reasoning.how could you tell it was a knock sensor? I ask because i'm getting an occasional PO420 code and even though i cannot hear any pinging, around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM i can feel the truck power cutting back. I'm assuming it's due to the O2 sensor with the CEL but i can't confirm that. I did have one of my knock sensors break when i was rebuilding my motor and i replaced it with a used one.
The knock sensors will detect knock way before you can audibly hear it.how could you tell it was a knock sensor? I ask because i'm getting an occasional PO420 code and even though i cannot hear any pinging, around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM i can feel the truck power cutting back. I'm assuming it's due to the O2 sensor with the CEL but i can't confirm that. I did have one of my knock sensors break when i was rebuilding my motor and i replaced it with a used one.
Baktash checked the codes. Not sure which code it was, just that there was a knock sensor code. I just bought a new "OEM Toyota" knock sensor on ebay and when it arrived it was not OEM. Seller is refunding full price and I am sending it back. We bought the OEM (twice as $$$) to replace it. On an FI truck Baktash strenuously recommended the OEM knock sensor and it doesn't take much thought to agree with his reasoning.
The URD FTC was installed last week and I did some base mapping yesterday and today, while parked with the lap top plugged in for power. The AFRs are now safe staying in the 12s and below, but still not optimal with some low RPM areas (1500-2000) under load going too rich down to 9s and 10s. I have not yet been able to road tune due to a bad replacement lap top battery, but I am supposed to have a new battery by the end of the week. Once I can watch the fuel map while moving it should be pretty simple to finish tuning. Meanwhile, Thursday the Transgo shift kit and fresh synthetic fluid goes in along with 4 new U-Joints and balanced drive shafts.
Oh yes , I have a couple of those though the nice one needs to be hardwired in. The other one plugs into the cig lighter outlet. I'll check to see if it works tomorrow, but I still need to wait till Thursday for the U-Joints to get replaced. They are really bad now.Buy a cheap inverter and plug the laptop on. Best investment for a tuner