Tricks/Tips for weatherstripping install wanted (1 Viewer)

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Jun 17, 2016
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Location
Oregon
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www.handselreid.com
Hello all. I am about to tackle the task of replacing the weatherstripping for all 4 sliding side/rear quarter windows on the troopy. Just wanted to see if anyone has any pointers before I get started?

I am going to (would like to at least) do it without removing the whole window frame so I assume the weatherstripping needs to be cut and done one half of the window at a time. Is there a certain glue or something I should be using to make sure the new weatherstripping stays in place in its track?

Thanks for any tips you can give me before I tackle this. I don't see it being very hard but that is some pretty expensive rubber so I would really love to get it right the first time.

For the part number lovers: These part numbers are the replacement for the older models. Newer year troop carriers sliding windows are the same.

WeatherStripping-1.jpg
Obviously these aren't in great shape.. This must have been the side of the vehicle usually facing the sun when parked. The other side is not as bad.
WeatherStripping-2.jpg
 
I am rebuilding sliding windows for my 60 series (pretty much the exact same design) and I can see no way of replacing those runs without removing the window. The center pillar/wiper has to come out to install the new runs. I wouldn't cut them up to install them. Also, I believe normal 3M weatherstripping glue would do the job to keep the runs in place but not make it impossible to remove later. Best of luck!
 
explain your plastic cover! mines all metal, you had some fancy trim there
 
image.jpeg

Obviously the previous owner was trying to pretend that he was driving an upscale 77 Series but of course he can't copy our rich Corinthian leather.
 
Hello, Did you successfully do this job? I took the advice of cruiserparts and got the frames along with the runner and weatherstripping for the job. I'll post pictures when it's done next week.
 
It's pretty straight forward from what I remember. Getting the glass out of the sliders is a little sketchy.......2 person job for us since we had 2 people. You kind of hold the bottom with your feet as you lift up on the top of the window...that allows the glass to come out. We had to cut something to length but I can't remember what. I feel like it was the channels....the OEM ones were long....we trimmed them down very carefully. The felt channels were a little ill-fitting but once the glass goes in, it presses it where it needs to go...but that's why you have to trim that felt carefully so you don't cut it short.

We used 3M butyl cord to secure and seal the slider windows(we have a pair of sliders and a pair of fixed windows). Kind of a 2 person job but not necessarily. Keep track of where the clips go as they hold the windows in pretty securely. Pretty easy to figure that out since there will be marks.

There was a really good write up I found somewhere....I'll see if I can't find it.
 
Found it.


Some other tips....

 
Timely information. I just noticed a leak incoming in at the bottom of my right hand side slider. I'm guessing the butyl seal is compromised, but hard to tell.
 
I seem to recall little drains in the felt channels to let water out...might want to make sure those aren't plugged allowing water to come in thru the window channels...not sure if that is even possible but I would think they're pretty important to keep clear.
 
Thank you for the quick response. Just judging off of the schematics, it looks like I might be comparing apples to oranges. The config on your rig has more of a different setup than I expected. I might have to start a new thread.
 
Thank you for the quick response. Just judging off of the schematics, it looks like I might be comparing apples to oranges. The config on your rig has more of a different setup than I expected. I might have to start a new thread.

Hello,

There is no need to cut the weatherstrips. They come out easy if you pry them gently with a flat screwdriver. Make sure you cover the tip with painter's tape.

Your Troopie has the "sash" type windows. It is an option on some 75 Series. This particular window has an adhesive (or double sided butyl tape) to hold it in place. You will need a scraper to cut the adhesive/tape in order to remove the window after the weatherstrip is out.

Disassembling the windows is a two-person job but it can also be done by just one person:
  1. Remove the center weatherstrip and its channel by removing the fixing screw (on the bottom, if memory serves.)
  2. Slide both glass windows to the center of the frame.
  3. Place two pieces of cloth in the extremes.
  4. Step on the cloth to hold the frame. Do it gently.
  5. Push each piece of glass downwards, then outward. Be very careful, they try to get away from your hands.
Clean and assembly following the above steps in reverse order (from 5 to 1)

You will need sealant or double sided butyl tape to attach the window to the body .

Hope this helps.





Juan
 
Last edited:
Hello,

There is no need to cut the weatherstrips. They come out easy if you pry them gently with a flat screwdriver. Make sure you cover the tip with painter's tape.

Your Troopie has the "sash" type windows. It is an option on some 75 Series. This particular window has an adhesive (or double sided butyl tape) to hold it in place. You will need a scraper to cut the adhesive/tape in order to remove the window after the weatherstrip is out.

Disassembling the windows is a two-person job but it can also be done by just one person:
  1. Remove the center weatherstrip and its channel by removing the fixing screw (on the bottom, if memory serves.)
  2. Slide both glass windows to the center of the frame.
  3. Place two pieces of cloth in the extremes.
  4. Step on the cloth to hold the frame. Do it gently.
  5. Push each piece of glass downwards, then outward. Be very careful, they try to get away from your hands.
Clean and assembly following the above steps in reverse order (from 5 to 1)

You will need sealant or double sided butyl tape to attach the window to the body .

Hope this helps.





Juan

Hey Juan,

Thanks for the input. Like I said I might want to create a new thread so it's not confusing everything. My install is going to include new frames, weatherstrip and the window runs. Here's the part numbers for it.

1602511570100.png


What i'm hoping is that the newer strips look like the image on the example, vs what I have. Mine has an exposed and corroding frame and the butyl is cracked and probably leaking water. There's noticeable rust accumulating under the car where the water could be going. This unfortunately is a bit of a guess, as I can't easily track water leaking into the window and then rusting underneath. There's two schematics that I'm finding for the replacements. One has a list of parts that have been discontinued, this is hopefully the approach that was originally used during manufacturing and has since been updated to resolve what is supposedly a common issue.

newer rear weatherstrip example.jpg


Window Schematic.jpg


seal.jpg
 
I personally would NOT use screwdrivers to take the sliding windows out. Harbor Freight sells a set of plastic trim knives for a very cheap price and you will use 4-5 of the plastic knives stabbed in to take the sliders out. This is an easy job. 3 out of 10 on the difficulty level. I was a bit apprehensive as you are the first time around. But it is a easy job.

To install the new weather stripping.. just use old school clothes line and some "Dove" dish soap on the clothes line. The window frame will pull right in. Just have wife, girlfriend, or dinking buddy have their hand on the outside applying a little pressure and ensure the window doesn't drop on the ground as you pull the rope around the frame.
 
Hey Juan,

Thanks for the input. Like I said I might want to create a new thread so it's not confusing everything. My install is going to include new frames, weatherstrip and the window runs. Here's the part numbers for it.

View attachment 2463224

What i'm hoping is that the newer strips look like the image on the example, vs what I have. Mine has an exposed and corroding frame and the butyl is cracked and probably leaking water. There's noticeable rust accumulating under the car where the water could be going. This unfortunately is a bit of a guess, as I can't easily track water leaking into the window and then rusting underneath. There's two schematics that I'm finding for the replacements. One has a list of parts that have been discontinued, this is hopefully the approach that was originally used during manufacturing and has since been updated to resolve what is supposedly a common issue.

View attachment 2463329

View attachment 2463330

View attachment 2463331

Hello,

It gets easier if you want to replace the sash.

Non-sash windows have a different weatherstrip. It wraps around the window and then goes into the body. No butyl strip.

When you finish assembling the windows and frame, just push the strip bit by bit until the frame is inside it.

Then you can put the windows into the body using the piano wire technique. A dab of Vaseline in the body lip helps the windows to slip in.

You can also push the window bit by bit into its position, working from the inside of the truck. This is an option if piano wire is not available.





Juan
 

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