Builds 2L-T vs 2L-TII LJ70 Build

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I am starting a new thread to prevent LJ70 owners from unneccessary suffering.

My original 2L-T had 300,000 km on the clock and so I decided it was time to drop in a new engine.
I saw a "2L-T" with R151F attached for sale in the next state over from a JDM Importer for 2K delievered to my house. I thought, wow, how fortuitous. Turns out what was delivered was a 2L-T2.

Both engines have 2L-T emblazoned on them, but that is really where the similarities start to end from what I can tell at this point. So to avoid doing what I did, to differentiate the 2 engines:
1> Look for the 2L-T on the valve cover itself, not the turbo cross over tube.
2> 2L-T Turbo has a flange on the Turbo over the valve cover, 2L-T2 does not.
3> 2L-T has the valve cover bolts in the center of the valve cover (valve cover probably black)
4> 2L-T2 has the valve cover bolts around the valve cover (valve cover probably gold)
5> Injection pump on 2L-T has no coolant lines running to it as the 2L-T2 does.

If you ask any JDM importer details about these engines, such as type and what year vehicle it came out of, they can not or will not elaborate. This makes is more difficult sourcing parts for that particular motor. Moveover, Toyodiy does not seem to differentiate between 2L-T and 2L-T2. Best I can tell, if it is post 1990, and says, 2L-T (on toyodiy), it is probably a 2L-T2. I tried researching my motor on Toyodiy, on the Japanese model, and it jumps right from old school 2L-T to 2L-TE.

I'm gonna try and make this work or else I have a 2k paperweight. My big concerns right now are:

1. Matching my LJ70 wiring harness to the 2L-T2 wiring harness.
2. Remove all the vacuum and EGR crap.
3. Remove butterfly valve/throttle plate inside the intake on the 2L-TII.
4. The flywheel, pressure plate, and friction plate are different on each model.
5. The Injection Pump on the 2L-TII motor has a TPS and Coolant line inputs. Will It run correctly after all the EGR inputs are removed.
 
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Please can you post a picture of the engine you bought, and a picture of the injection pump in particular? This will help identify the exact version you have. Once we know the version for sure, we can help with ideas on how you can work with it. Picture is worth a 1000 words as they say. :)
 
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Top of both motors.

Sorry, I started to dismantle both motors prior to snapping pics.

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So as you suspected, you definitely have a 2LT-II there. The major difference is the cylinder head design has changed from the old 2LT. The newer engine has a shim over bucket design, where the cam drives the valve directly. The older head has a rocker cam setup. The newer motor has a better turbo which spools faster and flows better. I believe the newer injection pump can move a lot more fuel also compared to the older one. I think the crank is stronger on the newer motor too, with a 8 bolt flywheel instead of 6 bolt flywheel on the 2LT. Although some late 2LT's did come with the stronger 8 bolt crank also.

It should not be too hard to wire in. I think once you have a look at the schematic it'll help. Probably a lot of the wiring was just for the emissions stuff which you no longer need anyhow. I'll hunt down the schematics and post a link to them when I find them. It should not be too hard at all to adapt it to the 2LT truck.
 
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OK, download this manual if you have not already: _KZJ70_HZJ_PZJ_chassis_body.pdf

On page 579 the schematics start. These include the 2LT-II motor as it is wired for the LJ7X series trucks. I just took a very quick look, and it seems to me like there is an emissions computer. I will take a closer look when I get some time, and give you some ideas about wiring. Your motor is probably from a Hilux Surf and not a Prado though, so the wiring might be a little bit different.
 
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Nick, Thanks for the technical and moral support. I couldn't do this without other LJ enthusiaists like you.
As you pointed out, yes, the Flywheels are definitely different. Both have 8 bolts and both have 101 teeth, but the 2L-T2 has springs inside/integral to the flywheel and what appears to be an additional friction plate that sets inside. I'll be looking for a part number on that. Thanks for the link!! Here are som pics of the 2 flywheels in question.

2L-T fly.jpg


2L-T2 fly.jpg


2L-T2 friction.jpg
 
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Nick, Thanks for the technical and moral support. I couldn't do this without other LJ enthusiaists like you.
As you pointed out, yes, the Flywheels are definitely different. Both have 8 bolts and both have 101 teeth, but the 2L-T2 has springs inside/integral to the flywheel and what appears to be an additional friction plate that sets inside. I'll be looking for a part number on that. Thanks for the link!! Here are som pics of the 2 flywheels in question.
You're welcome.

I forgot about the dual mass flywheels, but yes, as Rosco said, most people scrap those for a regular single mass one. You could probably just use the one off your old engine as they are both 8 bolt.

Here are links to the engine manuals as well. They cover the 2L,3L,5L and 2LT-II. First one is the main manual, and second is a supplement manual that covers some 2LT-II specifics.

Dropbox - 2L 3L 5L ENGINE RM520E.pdf

Dropbox - 2L%2C2L-T%2C3L%2C5L ENGINE SUP. RM582E.pdf

This is an older 3L 2LT supplement manual, I have not looked to see what the differences are between this one and the ones above. But hey, better too many manuals than not enough!

http://www.toyota4wd.dk/Teknik/J70/Toyota Motor Manual 2Lt.pdf
 
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Nick and Rosco, I removed pressure plates from both engines. They both came off easily. The fly wheels, however, are torqued on pretty tight. Just sprayed both with liquid wrench to soak for the night. I am up for suggestions as for which way to go, Dual Mass vs Single.
I never noticed any vibration from the single mass but I know all the part numbers (one plus). On the other hand, Toyota put the dual mass on the 2L-TII, so maybe it is better. If anyone else on the forum has experience and a preference please feel free to chime in.

Also, the Oil Cooler is different on both engines. The 2L-T oil filter mounts vertically to the "Tee" style Oil Cooler, and the 2L-TII oil filter mounts horizontally to the oil cooler. My manual says the horizontal style is for 4 wheel drive but that can't be true. I've seen both styles on 4x4 vehicles. Would it be correct to say, the horizontal sytle mount is for RHD vehicles and verical for LHD? Does anyone know for sure?

I am leaning toward swapping the coolers out. The horizontal sytle that came with the 2L-TII look like it may interfere with my exhaust coming off of the turbo. Any opinions on this?

2L-T vertical cooler.jpg


2L-T2 Horizontal.jpg


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Nick and Rosco, I removed pressure plates from both engines. They both came off easily. The fly wheels, however, are torqued on pretty tight. Just sprayed both with liquid wrench to soak for the night. I am up for suggestions as for which way to go, Dual Mass vs Single.
I never noticed any vibration from the single mass but I know all the part numbers (one plus). On the other hand, Toyota put the dual mass on the 2L-TII, so maybe it is better. If anyone else on the forum has experience and a preference please feel free to chime in.

Also, the Oil Cooler is different on both engines. The 2L-T oil filter mounts vertically to the "Tee" style Oil Cooler, and the 2L-TII oil filter mounts horizontally to the oil cooler. My manual says the horizontal style is for 4 wheel drive but that can't be true. I've seen both styles on 4x4 vehicles. Would it be correct to say, the horizontal sytle mount is for RHD vehicles and verical for LHD? Does anyone know for sure?

I am leaning toward swapping the coolers out. The horizontal sytle that came with the 2L-TII look like it may interfere with my exhaust coming off of the turbo. Any opinions on this?
I've heard the dual mass type flywheel can fail (spectacularly?). Toyota would have done it to make the engine smoother I guess. But hey, it's a diesel, just enjoy it for what it is!

To get the flywheel bolts out, you could try putting a breaker bar on the crank pulley to keep the engine from rotating. Then use an air impact tool to get the flywheel bolts out.

I really like the vertical filter system better, because you can pre-fill the new filter with oil when you do a change. This makes it so your engine is not starved of oil on first start up after a change.

Is this engine going in a 70 series? If so, the exhaust pipe does not interfere at all with the filter.
 
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Yes, it is going in a LJ70 (LHD). The older 2L-T had the vertical style oil filter/cooler, so I will probably swap the old one in the 2LT2. Easy enough to get out and fill like you said. Horizontal type looks like it could be messy.

Still on the fence with the dual mass flywheel. Just reading through the old threads. Starting to lean toward single mass.
 
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Are your clutches the same on both flywheels? My 5l runs the bigger v6 toyota clutch and my 2lt ran the same clutch as the 22re. The bigger clutch might be an advantage if the newer engine also runs the larger clutch/flywheel. Otherwise Id run the single mass. for simplicity. Check on the tooth count of both your starters too. One of mine was 10 and the other 11 I think. Might be good to keep them paired with the original flywheel if they are different. Both my flywheels were 8 bolt and the same (or very very similar) OD as well.

Also, regarding the oil filter, my 2lt had the horizontal mount and my 5l has the vertical. I decided to keep my vertical style (same concerns about turbo and exhaust clearance, only to find that the filters are like $38 and always out of stock instead of $7 on the other style. Adds up over the life time of the vehicle...
 
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Got both Engine Harnesses off and cleaned up today. The old 2L--T harness is about 25% the size of the 2L-T2. It is less intimidating if you just study the old style harness. I have a couple questions but I think it can be sorted out. It started getting dark and I was out of electrical contact cleaner.

Here are some pics if anyone is curious.
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Advlars, which style oil filter did you find to be more common and cheaper? I had been using a Bosch 3500 from Autozone on the vertically mounted style. They run under $10 bucks. I and considering leaving the horizontal mount and put a "real" external oil cooler on that. I have to get this engine started first before I cross that bridge.

Yes, the flywheels are different on the engines. Both 101 teeth and both have 11 tooth starters. The 2L-T2 is dual mass and I am gonna put my single mass/standard flywheel on the newer engine since I know the part numbers for the friction and pressure plates.

As far a the Injection Pump on the 2L-T2 goes, not quite sure. I know this is a JDM (RHD) engine. But toyodiy jumps from 1989 2L-T to 1990 2L-TE on Japan market LJ70s, so this is making things harder to identify parts. Maybe it came out of a Surf or something else. As soon as I find out, I will post the part number.

As far as the crank position sensor goes, I thought that only applied to automatic transmissions, but can't say for sure.
 
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Not exactly sure how the glow plug resistor sub-system functions, but these wires were so cruddy when I removed them I didn't realize they were color coded. Can some confirm the black coded wire goes above the red?

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Right on. So is the single mass running the 8.5 or 9" clutch then?

I had trouble finding the vertical style. Tried pretty much every name brand shop in town except autozone. All of them were out of stock and crazy expensive. Guess im headed to AZ next time! Im also hoping to run an oil cooler and remote filter sometime as well, but its low priority for now.

Crank position sensors came on the 2lte for sure. I dont know anything about the autos
 
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I didn't measure the diameter. I just know it is made by Aisin. Toyota Part number #31250-60153 on the Clutch Disc/Friction Plate.
Aisin #DTX117
 
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Running into some issues today with the 2 wiring harnesses as they relate to the injection pumps. I am going to start a second thread in the Diesel section and will posted the correct answers (when I get them) here.

On another note, regarding the Clutch Disc...my Aisin clutch disc does not indicate "TM or FW" so I am scratch my head.

Marlin Crawler site and other sites say "flat side to flywheel" or "springs out". But some mention, it is reverse on Land Cruisers...not specifically stating which series Land Cruisers.

The "springs out" is the side that is printed "Aisin" on my clutch disc. So one should be able to read the words, Aisin, prior to bolting on the pressure plate.
 
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Got the 2L-T2 inside the LJ today. I feel like I am over the hump and can some light at the of the tunnel.

Couldn't find a new clutch disc in North America or a cross reference. I ended up using the old one. Not how I like to roll, but all things considered, I needed to press on.

Some techniques I used on getting the 2L-T out and back in. I unbolted/loosened the power steering pump / passenger side engine bracket and left the entire assembly inside the engine bay when I pulled the motor. Unless you have an overhead engine hoist you will have trouble clearing the front clip and similarly when installing. Install the passenger side engine bracket after you clear the front of you vehicle.

Be careful with the 17mm engine bracket bolts when swapping assesories. 2L-T2 bolts are slightly longer, so you will need to use all the older hardware. Another useful technique I used too was use the longer 2L-T2 bolts to pull the bell housing close to the back of the engine block. I did this job myself so the long bolts help cinch things together, especially if you are doing this job alone. The engine leveler is also an essential piece if doing this alone. I didnt need a transmission jack.

I have to work the next few days but hope to get her fired up over the coming weekend.

I may have to improvise the mount for the accelerator cable. The older 2L-T had a clip on the valve cover. The new 2L-T2 has this on the Intake Manifold, but this was set up for a (RHD) vehicle. I will post pics when I get it figured out.

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