CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Not any running 2F’s. Sorry I could not help
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Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Cummins 6BT 12 valve - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale
Come and hear it run! Up for grabs is a hard (and only getting harder) to find all original never...
bend.craigslist.org
- Thread starter
- #183
Treebeard is getting a new(er) heart! Yesterday I sent @blbuck12 a deposit for his 2F+4spd with 165k miles on it (thanks Buck!). Thank you @NookShneer for the tip! After the engine is pulled in a couple of weeks I'll clean it up, replace a couple of gaskets, and drop it in. I'm going to do the swap in front of my house so 
for a sunny weekend in Seattle this month.
In other news I'm very nearly finished cleaning up the interior. I've washed all of the seat upholstery, cleaned a lot of duct tape gunk off the center console, and shampooed the carpet in the front 2/3rds of the truck (I threw out most of the cargo area). I need to buy a couple more zip ties to finish reassembling the passenger seat (screw hog rings) and am waiting for some Lloyd's mats to arrive before I call it gucci.
I made the mistake of leaving my driver's seat sitting upright on the back patio one night last week and a neighbor made good use of it.
for a sunny weekend in Seattle this month.In other news I'm very nearly finished cleaning up the interior. I've washed all of the seat upholstery, cleaned a lot of duct tape gunk off the center console, and shampooed the carpet in the front 2/3rds of the truck (I threw out most of the cargo area). I need to buy a couple more zip ties to finish reassembling the passenger seat (screw hog rings) and am waiting for some Lloyd's mats to arrive before I call it gucci.
I made the mistake of leaving my driver's seat sitting upright on the back patio one night last week and a neighbor made good use of it.
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Nice one Nate, glad you found a replacement engine for the 'ol girl, sounds like she's gonna be schmicko once you're done
- Thread starter
- #185
Nice one Nate, glad you found a replacement engine for the 'ol girl, sounds like she's gonna be schmicko once you're done
Thank you for introducing me to "schmicko", I'm gonna start using that!
- Thread starter
- #186
One and a half months ago vs today. It still doesn’t drive but at least it’s clean! Time to start disassembling the engine...
- Thread starter
- #187
I took out the battery and the tray last night and it made a mess under the truck. The battery that came with the truck is a Walmart 24F... is it worth keeping? Does anyone know if the standard holddown on the stainlesstrays.com tray will fit it?
Rusto
SILVER Star
I'd get the battery checked and if it's good, keep it. You are going to be spending plenty of money anyway, dont add to it if you dont have to
- Thread starter
- #189
The ridiculously helpful @NookShneer pointed out two things to me this week. First, if I move the transfer case from one transmission to the other then I should go ahead and rebuild it. Second, my 1984 drive shafts aren't going to work with an H42 from 1987.
This leads me to decide that I'm going to stick with the truck's original H42 for now. So... can anyone link me to threads about swapping a 2F without removing the transmission? As far as I can tell I'll need to stick a 2x4 under the transmission to keep it from shifting when the engine comes out and possibly grab some extra bell housing bolts to use as guides when dropping it back in. Sound about right?
This leads me to decide that I'm going to stick with the truck's original H42 for now. So... can anyone link me to threads about swapping a 2F without removing the transmission? As far as I can tell I'll need to stick a 2x4 under the transmission to keep it from shifting when the engine comes out and possibly grab some extra bell housing bolts to use as guides when dropping it back in. Sound about right?
So the early trans is shorter. Later is longer by about 3.5 inches, this shifts the transfer case further back effecting the drive lines.
If you were getting a engine/bellhousing/trans w/o a transfer case attached you would need to re-assemble the transfer case onto the back of the transmission. It would make sense to re-build the transfer at that fine
You drove the rig 10-12 miles or so right? I know the truck has issues with the head/cracked cylinder, did it shift well? Any rough shifts, grinding trouble getting it in/out of gears?
If it didn’t have any issues run the trans/transfer and attach to the bellhousing. Maybe inspect the pilot bearing and clutch for wear. Replace if needed. Run it anyway. It’s only time and wrenching to undo it/replace it.
As long as you have the time to wrench, money for parts, and the ability to have the rig down while you get it sorted you’ll be fine.
Many in your previous thread about buying it cautioned that they would pay more for less of those concerns.
If it were me. I’d pull the existing motor and bell-housing. Leave the rest of the the trans and transfer in place and then drop the “refreshed” 2F/bellhousing in and connect. With the right hoist/leveler and possible combination of trans jack it can go back together w/o much difficulty (always add 2 hours to any estimate
)
If you were getting a engine/bellhousing/trans w/o a transfer case attached you would need to re-assemble the transfer case onto the back of the transmission. It would make sense to re-build the transfer at that fine
You drove the rig 10-12 miles or so right? I know the truck has issues with the head/cracked cylinder, did it shift well? Any rough shifts, grinding trouble getting it in/out of gears?
If it didn’t have any issues run the trans/transfer and attach to the bellhousing. Maybe inspect the pilot bearing and clutch for wear. Replace if needed. Run it anyway. It’s only time and wrenching to undo it/replace it.
As long as you have the time to wrench, money for parts, and the ability to have the rig down while you get it sorted you’ll be fine.
Many in your previous thread about buying it cautioned that they would pay more for less of those concerns.
If it were me. I’d pull the existing motor and bell-housing. Leave the rest of the the trans and transfer in place and then drop the “refreshed” 2F/bellhousing in and connect. With the right hoist/leveler and possible combination of trans jack it can go back together w/o much difficulty (always add 2 hours to any estimate
)
- Thread starter
- #191
It shifted great. A buddy also drove it for a few miles and also thought it shifted well. He mentioned the shifter felt a little loose, maybe I’ll pull the one from the newer transmission.
Hehe, no worries mate
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I pulled my engine by myself w/ a cherry picker 3 times bigger than I needed. It was most awkward because I’m only 5’5” and weigh about 130#’s. I used a 2x4 about 4’ long to lever the picker backward out of the bay. I tossed two thin sheets of plywood on the bumpy pavement that I kept shifting backward for the hard metal wheels to roll over but I did it.
Damn proud moment.
Once it’s out the trans/tcase are fine just there supported by the crossmember but I did put a couple stands under them so they didn’t tip down backward which they were just slightly.
At some point once the weather warms a bit more I’ll get back to assembly.
Damn proud moment.
Once it’s out the trans/tcase are fine just there supported by the crossmember but I did put a couple stands under them so they didn’t tip down backward which they were just slightly.
At some point once the weather warms a bit more I’ll get back to assembly.
- Thread starter
- #194
Nice work! I really hope to see a similar sight next weekend.
Tell me about how you attached the chain to the engine block without the head, it looks like that rear bolt is attached in place of a head bolt? My cylinder head is currently in the back of the truck and I was planning to reattach it in order to remove the block but I'd love to avoid that if I can.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
An afterthought thanks to Fred, (not pictured) I cut a stretch of pipe to slip over the shaft of the headbolt and sandwiched it between washers at the rear corner.Nice work! I really hope to see a similar sight next weekend.
At the front I followed Matt’s suggestion and used a waterpump bolt.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Zoom in and you can see the sleeve in this picture.
And in the second picture I bought the locking carabiner from Tractor supply.
And in the second picture I bought the locking carabiner from Tractor supply.
It's a bit less sketchy if you take the tires/wheels off and let it sit almost on the rotors when pulling the engine. Don't have to get the heavy motor so high in the air.
- Thread starter
- #198
I made some progress over the last few days...
* Had someone get in touch via Craigslist who came out and drained the bad gas (most looked good but there's definitely rust and water in there)
* Installed some brown Lloyd's mats in the passenger area, I think that part of the interior is definitely done for now
* Installed a stainlesstrays.com tray and re-installed the battery (probably prematurely but I was excited)
* Cut the air rail off my cylinder head and plugged the holes (I'll be selling this soon)
* Dropped the spare
Tasks for today or tomorrow...
* Drop the gas tank and find some way to clean it up (can't find a shop in Seattle to do it... any recommendations?)
* Drain oil from the block
* Drain coolant from the radiator (the petcock only yielded a small amount... time to pull the hose)
* Start pulling off engine accessories to prepare for pulling the block. I'll be cleaning them up and probably keeping most as spares.
I'm picking up the “new” engine on Saturday!
* Had someone get in touch via Craigslist who came out and drained the bad gas (most looked good but there's definitely rust and water in there)
* Installed some brown Lloyd's mats in the passenger area, I think that part of the interior is definitely done for now
* Installed a stainlesstrays.com tray and re-installed the battery (probably prematurely but I was excited)
* Cut the air rail off my cylinder head and plugged the holes (I'll be selling this soon)
* Dropped the spare
Tasks for today or tomorrow...
* Drop the gas tank and find some way to clean it up (can't find a shop in Seattle to do it... any recommendations?)
* Drain oil from the block
* Drain coolant from the radiator (the petcock only yielded a small amount... time to pull the hose)
* Start pulling off engine accessories to prepare for pulling the block. I'll be cleaning them up and probably keeping most as spares.
I'm picking up the “new” engine on Saturday!
Loosen/open the radiator cap while the petcock is open, should drain just fine. If not, then either there ain't much in it or there's a bunch of sediment blocking the drain hole.
Where the petcock is on these makes it near impossible to to drain one cleanly.
Good to see you're sticking with this one's revival.
Where the petcock is on these makes it near impossible to to drain one cleanly.
Good to see you're sticking with this one's revival.
- Thread starter
- #200
Loosen/open the radiator cap while the petcock is open, should drain just fine. If not, then either there ain't much in it or there's a bunch of sediment blocking the drain hole.
Where the petcock is on these makes it near impossible to to drain one cleanly.
Good to see you're sticking with this one's revival.
I pulled the hose, there wasn’t much left. It’s actually pretty disturbing how little coolant was in this truck...
I’m not gonna lie, I absolutely thought about bailing out when I found the cracked cylinder wall. As it is I think I’m still going to come out on top financially. The sweat equity will be there too but that’s how I’m going to know how to fix anything when it breaks down later.
