Builds Travis’s PNW LX570

[teejnut]

How's the drone at cruising speeds?

 

[tbisaacs]

How's the drone at cruising speeds?

So far so good. I was initially considering an 18" body but chickened out—no regrets going with the larger.

There is a pretty big sound bump at 1500-1700 rpm but quiets quickly. I am so under-geared right now that it wont be a problem on the hwy. I suspect when I go to 4.88s I'll go back to a resonator. I am not running an LRA tank or anything so open to one that I can tuck up where the spare was and then just dump it straight down.

We'll see, I'm going to Moab in a month and that will be the test.

 

[tbisaacs]

I finally got around to installing the extended rear brake lines I’ve had on my shelf for about 18 months. I fully intended on going rear long travel but never got around to it.

I also made some pretty big holes in my fender.

Fitment is 7 out of 10

This is not hard but took me 4 solid hours and a couple trips to Lowe’s. You’ll need:

• Deburring tool
• 4.5” hole saw
• Touch up paint
• Rivet gun (although I suppose you could use rivnuts)
• Thread locker
• Round file
• Heat gun

No perceptible extra noise or whistling

 

[propernorf]

I finally got around to installing the extended rear brake lines I’ve had on my shelf for about 18 months. I fully intended on going rear long travel but never got around to it.

View attachment 3893254

I also made some pretty big holes in my fender.

View attachment 3893256

View attachment 3893257

Fitment is 7 out of 10

View attachment 3893258

View attachment 3893259

This is not hard but took me 4 solid hours and a couple trips to Lowe’s. You’ll need:

• Deburring tool
• 4.5” hole saw
• Touch up paint
• Rivet gun (although I suppose you could use rivnuts)
• Thread locker
• Round file
• Heat gun

No perceptible extra noise or whistling

looks sick, where did you get those extended rear brake lines ?

 

[tbisaacs]

looks sick, where did you get those extended rear brake lines ?

Toytec

 

[nimitz]

Awesome build. We just moved to the PNW from IN. I see you're close by. I'm in Maple Valley. Just picked up a 200 yesterday.

Small world, I’m also from Indiana

Also in Renton and went to school in Indiana lol

 

[kcjaz]

… I wish it were bare aluminum…

If you wheel it correctly it will be bare aluminum soon enough.

 

[lecoq]

Did you ever get error messages since removing the AHC?

 

[tbisaacs]

Did you ever get error messages since removing the AHC?

No but you need to bypass via canbus junction and keep height sensors plugged in if you want to keep AFS

 

[tbisaacs]

Catching up because a lot has happened in the last two months since my trip to Moab.

I was due for an oil change the second I pulled in from my trip. I noticed the skids looked a little...grimey so I pulled them off and found this horror show:

Every skid from the bottom of the engine back was like this. I couldn't believe it. I've had a slow passenger side cam tower leak for, well, since I've owned the truck. This was the driver's side. It dripped enough bumping and climbing in moab to make it's way to the prop shaft and oil migrated everywhere.

Rather than kick the can some more, I made an appointment at Torfab to get both banks re-sealed. In the meantime, I swallowed my pride and went back to stock muffler. I found a low mile one on ebay and bought new gaskets and hardware and agreed with my wife that I"m a moron. Lesson learned.

I also built a sick bike rack for my dissent rear bumper, and did Brembo pads and rotors all around. The holes add horsepower:

 

[tbisaacs]

Okay fast forward to a month later, I dropped my truck off at Torfab and they got to work on the cam tower reseals. The photos confirmed that this is not a DIY job, at least at my skill level:

The while they where in there list includes a bunch of o-rings, both chain tensioners, dampers, and crank shaft seal. They also found some issues with my spark plug tubes—one was full of oil and the other was totally seized in and had an unhappy coil back, so those where replaced. I also had leaking heater tees, so those got swapped too. Oh, and rear upper links for good measure.

I picked the truck up and on my way home, I started seeing a flickering charge light on the dash and the voltage was bouncing like crazy. I started monitoring it my DC charger (which was off) and could see voltage dropping to 11.7 and then bouncing up again. I initially thought either loose battery cable, or maybe the alternator had to come out with timing cover. I checked the cables, all good—and the tech confirmed the alternator stays on, just the belt comes off.

By the time I got home the truck was unhappy and running like garbage. Thankfully Torfab answered my messages after hours and had a new Denso alternator shipped overnight so I wasn't out of luck for the long holiday weekend. They went above and beyond and got me in the next day, and had it done by the afternoon.

I'm not sure what happened, this alternator is about 3 years old, but it's absolutely cooked. It's discolored from being hot (old one on the right):

There was some oil on the back from what I assume was long term oil drip from the passenger side leak. But beyond that, I have no theories.

Anyways—cautiously calling victory, and consider this the vow renewal because this thing owes me after all of the parts she's gotten this year.

 

[kcjaz]

By the time I got home the truck was unhappy and running like garbage. Thankfully Torfab answered my messages after hours and had a new Denso alternator shipped overnight so I wasn't out of luck for the long holiday weekend. They went above and beyond and got me in the next day, and had it done by the afternoon.

I'm not sure what happened, this alternator is about 3 years old, but it's absolutely cooked. It's discolored from being hot (old one on the right):

Do you know how many amps you have in accessory loads?

 

[tbisaacs]

Do you know how many amps you have in accessory loads?

I thought about that too. I’ve got a 150amp blue sea safety hub with my switch pro, ARB, and spot lights but those are only intermittent use. I have a 30 amp Victron charger, set to most conservative settings for voltage lockout, timeout etc. I drive the truck enough that it’s mostly bulk charging at < 10amps

 

[Boston Mangler]

I did Brembo pads and rotors all around. The holes add horsepower:

“The holes will crack and your rotors will explode, I only use OEM”
-Half of Mud

 

[tbisaacs]

“The holes will crack and your rotors will explode, I only use OEM”
-Half of Mud

Yea wait until they find out I use Kirkland oil sometimes

 

[Boston Mangler]

Yea wait until they find out I use Kirkland oil sometimes

Thanks for sharing those pics.

I had gone back and forth whether or not I wanted to tackle a small timing cover leak.

After seeing your post, it’s a hard no now.

Thank you for your service

Glad you’re all fixed up

 

[nimitz]

Did you go to a muffler shop or just bolt the new stuff in?

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm not sure what happened, this alternator is about 3 years old, but it's absolutely cooked. It's discolored from being hot (old one on the right):

View attachment 3941715

There was some oil on the back from what I assume was long term oil drip from the passenger side leak. But beyond that, I have no theories.

Wow, cooked is right!?$#

The electrical setup looks reasonable based on the schematic you posted.

If I had to guess, I'd agree that the oil was the primary culprit. As it got into the internals and windings, it could reduce heat transfer causing overheating. With contaminants it probably started short circuiting internally as well. Overtime and cycles...glad you sorted things out before it turned into a potential fire underhood.

 

[tbisaacs]

Did you go to a muffler shop or just bolt the new stuff in?

Just laid in the driveway and bolted on. Hard part was cutting off the old rusty flange bolts.