How much fluid should I expect to drain out on a normal drain/fill on an 03 LX? It has the 4AT and uses type IV fluid.
transmission fluid change
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Systems holds 12 qts ATF. When just draining the pan you'l get ~3 qts. or more. It depends on how long you let drain. I've gotten 5 or 6 qts. over night draining.
Thanks. I heard ~5.5 but I have the truck on the lift and barely got 3.
2.5 to 4 in my experience depending on drain time and if the front end is elevated. If doing a drain & fill, best if you can get the front end up in the air on stands- this helps the draining process. Add 1/2 quart more than what you drained, and be sure to perform the Level Check procedure in the FSM (revised with fluid temps between 97F & 115F). I like adding the little bit extra fluid because it generally makes the level check process a one attempt procedure ( yeah you waste a little fluid but better than burnt arms).
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Mobil 1 ATF sounds like a fine choice to use for refill?
The Toyota fluid is dirt cheap so I went that route.
Depends on the model trans: A343 Yes, A750 No. A750 wants WS spec ATF and the M1 ATF is not WS spec.
However, this is WS compatible:
Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (WS) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota/Lexus/Scion
Thats a good option.
Another WS option I've been using with price savings over Toyota WS - is AISIN ATF-0WS @ $6.02 per qt on RA. I think this is Toyota WS in a different bottle.
Another WS option I've been using with price savings over Toyota WS - is AISIN ATF-0WS @ $6.02 per qt on RA. I think this is Toyota WS in a different bottle.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
A343 is used in my '99 LX, yes?
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Yup A343F
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Sweet, thanks. I am going to go get a jug of M1 ATF for a drain & fill.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
They ended up having MaxLife at the store.
4 qts poured out pretty quick and the fluid looked perfect, nice and red and clear.
4 qts poured out pretty quick and the fluid looked perfect, nice and red and clear.
Anything wrong with doing a drain and fill 3x to get mostly new fluid throughout? Warm up, drain,fill. Drive around shuffle through all gears repeat 2x more times. This was the same process for my Acura, you had to fill new fluid through dipstick as well. Coming from the Acura I'll only use genuine atf personally- those automatic tranny are super sensitive. BTW I have an 06 lx with 211k miles with fluid I don't think has been changed(going to test it today).
Are people pulling the AT cooler line to see if new fluid is coming all the way through? What is that process exactly?
Thank you
Are people pulling the AT cooler line to see if new fluid is coming all the way through? What is that process exactly?
Thank you
I do drain/fill on our Odyssey every oil change.
However, if I had to do it 3 times like you described - I would do full exchange as explained many times here on MUD (Search). Disconnecting cooler line and draining/refilling about 10qt or until you see clear. It is MUCH quicker than driving, draining, etc. And will give you much better % of exchange fluid.
2001LC
SILVER Star
You don't have a dipstick in th 06. Last year for those was 03. IIRC this thread has some info on "no dipstick fill" also.
You can do drain and fills if worried. Personally if transmission so bad, it can't handle a full flush. I'd just assume know now, not 500 miles from nowhere!. If fluid does not smell burnt, do a few drain and fills, about 3 qts each time. You can come back after drain and fills and do a full flush if you like. Personally I've flushed many first time all 12 qts. Never a problem. It's not and Aura.
I do only use Toyota WS ATF in 04 up.I do disconnect transmission cooler return line to flush all out as I'm add equal amount plus 1/4 qt through fill plug. I first drain the pan, measuring how much comes out. I put new gasket/washer on drain plug and torque drain plug back on. Than I add same that came out plus 1/4 qt or more. We drain and fill the pan first, so pickup/suction tube is sucking fresh fluid pushing it through the transmission as we add more fresh to pan.
Than I run engine to use transmission pump, to pump out old fluid. I add fluid as it pumps out, stopping engine so I can keep up. In the end I want more in, than came out. This is so, I can check and set level without need to add more. You do not want to reach up to fill plug again. It's next to exhaust pipe, that gets very hot during level check procedure. So overfilling a little, which drains out during level setting procedure, make easy one time work of it.
Start around reading post # 165 and read through #174. It will help give you the idea on how to. You do not need the fill plug drilled as addaper, as I did. Just a hose run into fill plugs hole. In this link you'll see a TBS in post #174, where Toyota change temperature we use to top transmission. I start at 97F. Double check and little higher like at ~100F
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
is that PCV valve thread-in? Yes, Mr T started doing that in 03. It a better design. As the 98-02 grommet must be changed as they leak after ~7 years or sooner. ___________________________________________________________:) Fuel line from filter to fuel rail and fuel pressure pulsation damper...
forum.ih8mud.com
You don't have a dipstick in th 06. Last year for those was 03. IIRC this thread has some info on "no dipstick fill" also.
You can do drain and fills if worried. Personally if transmission so bad, it can't handle a full flush. I'd just assume know now, not 500 miles from nowhere!. If fluid does not smell burnt, do a few drain and fills, about 3 qts each time. You can come back after drain and fills and do a full flush if you like. Personally I've flushed many first time all 12 qts. Never a problem. It's not and Aura.
I do disconnect transmission cooler return line to flush all out as I'm add equal amount plus 1/4 qt through fill plug. I first drain the pan, measuring how much comes out. I put new gasket/washer on drain plug and torque drain plug back on. Than I add same that came out plus 1/4 qt or more. We drain and fill the pan first, so pickup/suction tube is sucking fresh fluid pushing it through the transmission as we add more fresh to pan.
Than I run engine to use transmission pump, to pump out old fluid. I add fluid as it pumps out, stopping engine so I can keep up. In the end I want more in, than came out. This is so, I can check and set level without need to add more. You do not want to reach up to fill plug again. It's next to exhaust pipe, that gets very hot during level check procedure. So overfilling a little, which drains out during level setting procedure, make easy one time work of it.
Start around reading post # 165 and read through #174. It will help give you the idea on how to. You do not need the fill plug drilled as addaper, as I did. Just a hose run into fill plugs hole. In this link you'll see a TBS in post #174, where Toyota change temperature we use to top transmission. I start at 97F. Double check and little higher like at ~100F
Somewhere I've more detail as do others, search for those if you've more ??.
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
is that PCV valve thread-in? Yes, Mr T started doing that in 03. It a better design. As the 98-02 grommet must be changed as they leak after ~7 years or sooner. ___________________________________________________________:) Fuel line from filter to fuel rail and fuel pressure pulsation damper...
Are you still using M1 ATF in 98-02? I am getting ready for a drain and fill.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Yes. I use M1 always in 98-02.
I've tried others and always come back to M1. I buy 14 qts. I mark a 3 gallon bucket each 1 qt as my catch can. 3 gallon bucket, forces me to empty before done. I not only closely monitor/measure out and in. At the end I like to see the color change. By emptying catch bucket, before done, I can see. I also can reuse that last qt flushed, if clean in bucket and I've run out of a fresh last bottle. My first time I used 18 qts, what a waste. Now I hit 12 qts or a little less every time. I use the remaining qts, too flush power steering.
Let me know if you need help, just call or stop by. Fee is 1 N5 mask..LOL
03 is only one I've not done yet. That is the swing year. Toyota ATF IV AFT or V or VI "IDR", for 2003. One day I may try M1 in 03. But that must be my rig. Or one the owner understands it is not what Toyota recommends. I'm sure WS would work fine.
For 04 and up I've a new fill hose, yet to try. @abuck99 told he's used.
I've tried others and always come back to M1. I buy 14 qts. I mark a 3 gallon bucket each 1 qt as my catch can. 3 gallon bucket, forces me to empty before done. I not only closely monitor/measure out and in. At the end I like to see the color change. By emptying catch bucket, before done, I can see. I also can reuse that last qt flushed, if clean in bucket and I've run out of a fresh last bottle. My first time I used 18 qts, what a waste. Now I hit 12 qts or a little less every time. I use the remaining qts, too flush power steering.
Let me know if you need help, just call or stop by. Fee is 1 N5 mask..LOL
03 is only one I've not done yet. That is the swing year. Toyota ATF IV AFT or V or VI "IDR", for 2003. One day I may try M1 in 03. But that must be my rig. Or one the owner understands it is not what Toyota recommends. I'm sure WS would work fine.
For 04 and up I've a new fill hose, yet to try. @abuck99 told he's used.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I'll add. IIRC your rig has been flushed before. I'd just do a full flush than. Unless fluid smells burnt. But even then I get to a full flush after just a few dain & fills. You go off road so much with that beast. If trans going to fail, find out now. But I'm 90% sure, a full flush is not going to reveal a weakness.
BTW are you monitoring your ECT (engine coolant temps)? If so what are you seeing?
On most Toyota's you can check which Transmission you on your vehicle by looking at the VIN number sticker on your drivers door and checking the A/TM. I think that stands of Auto Transaxle basically Auto Transmission.
