transmission fluid change (4 Viewers)

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Thats my point....why would you waste good fluid and money every 5k miles? That's just crazy. That is over the top OCD, IMO.
If you think you have worn out fluid in there? I thought a drain/fill every few k was a lot of folks' preferred way to change the fluid.
 
Exactly, every 5k to get the old out and new in, while possibly mixing old unknown fluid with synthetic atf.

Unfortunately, i do not live near a shop with the fluid exchange option. I started noticing a squealing vibrating sound when shifting going up inclines. It happens randomly though, and can bairly hear it with the windows up. So i figured i better start with the fluid, if it is the trans.

I do have to admit, I am a little ocd in general. Lol
 
I wouldn't waste money on a shop doing a fluid exchange unless you simply don't have the time to do it yourself. If you have the dipstick just pull the trans cooler line and start the engine for ~10sec to let the old ATF drain into a catchpan. Measure how much drained out and refill that same amount of new ATF through the dipstick. Repeat until you see fresh ATF draining out of the cooler line. You will want to drop the trans pan and clean that first though if you go this route.
 
I also DIY as you @TheForger. I probable do more often then most at every 30K on 98-02.

First time I did a full 12qt flush, I dropped my pan. Kind of a waste of time & $, except was able to clean the magnets for what that's worth. I used Toyota transmission FIPG to seal pan back up, some use after market gaskets. Toyota sells filter with gasket (not sold separately), and you'll need a new gasket if you pull pan and filter to clean

I've tried M1 MV full synthetic which I use today. As well as Dexron II, III and Mobil Dexron VI which is a blend in the 1998-02 transmissions. Newer transmission limited to Toyota Lifetime ATF or Valvoline synthetic IIRC.
 
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Find a place that has a "transmission fluid exchange machine" DON'T LET THEM FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION!!! take in around 18 quarts of Mobil synthetic ATF and have your old fluid exchanged with the new Mobil synthetic ATF. You now should be good for another 60K miles. Should cost you around $120 for the fluid and the exchange process. I did this on my FZJ80 at 60K and 120K.
Around here I learn something new everyday..

Thanks for the tip, it makes perfect sense to try to evacuate as much oil as possible so the new oil those not get contaminated & deluded by the worn one oil..

Note: I call around a few shops in Minneapolis and none of them had a straight answer, my lack of Ingles maybe..??

Any other commun names for the oil exchanger machine..?? Recomended shops around here maybe..?
 
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What does this tell you?
 
Looks old to me. Should be pink (good) or reddish (ok). Brown typically means it's time to change.
 
I also DIY as you @TheForger. I probable do more often then most at every 30K on 98-02.

First time I did a full 12qt flush, I dropped my pan. Kind of a waste of time & $, except was able to clean the magnets for what that's worth. I used Toyota transmission FIPG to seal pan back up, some use after market gaskets. Toyota sells filter with gasket (not sold separately), and you'll need a new gasket if you pull pan and filter to clean

I've tried M1 MV full synthetic which I use today. As well as Dexron II, III and Mobil Dexron VI which is a blend in the 1998-02 transmissions. Newer transmission limited to Toyota Lifetime ATF or Valvoline synthetic IIRC.

Hi! What exactly you feel like waste of time/$? Dropping pan? I have 193k on 2001 LX with no history of fluid change. Plan to do exchange via cooler hose. Pan is not leaking even bit, I'm debating if I should touch it unless necessary.

Transmission "kicks" a little shifting 2-3

What is M1 MV? Is that M1 ATF fluid? Or "MV" something different? Can't find anything.

Also, how do you measure level? I have dipstick but it's long, "wobbly" and it's binding going in. Just doesn't feel reliable to use as measuring.. I also don't want to go by measuring how much I took out as only way because there is no history.

Thank you!
 
Pan just wasn't bad at all in bottom, and magnet in bottom do their job. Older pans 98-02, have FIPG sealing them. It's a pain to cut loose, some damage pan doing it.

(M1 MV) = Mobil 1 Multi Vehicle full synthetic ATF. In 98-02. 03 wahtever OM states, 04-07 Toyota WS.

I love the dip stick. Try doing one without , it's a real pain. Dip stick work fine; AT at OP temp, engine idling on level ground.

Look around mud and check my master thread for link, in signture line. You'll find ways to flush.

I flushed one as high as 350K miles and have been driving for a year now.

Love that MI MV syn ATF in power steering also.
 
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Hoping to take mine in for a transmission fluid exchange...this is a very well known shop in ATL and surprised by the quote... Am I justified in being surprised or is $500+ the going rate for labor?

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Hoping to take mine in for a transmission fluid exchange...this is a very well known shop in ATL and surprised by the quote... Am I justified in being surprised or is $500+ the going rate for labor?

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Regardless I wouldn’t pay that much for a trans exchange on my 200, that seems really high. The 200 takes what like 14qts @ ~$12/qt = $170 for fluid + $30 for the FIPG. So if you were to do it yourself it’d be around $200 plus the pain of scraping off the old FIPG to clean up the mating surfaces. The screen is easy to clean. Also, if you are wanting a full fluid exchange I don’t know why they only quoted you for 5.5qts...
 
Why are you having them pull the transmission pan?
BTW: starting in 2003 (IIRC) the pan began use of gasket, not FIPG. Pulling and resealing a pan with FIPG (98-02) is much more labor intensive, than just a gasket.
 
When I first bought my 2005, I took it to an independent Toyota shop here in ATL to have fluid exchanged. That was using the BG Machine. I think the price was around $230 $329.95 for that service. Agree that anything over $300 is excessive.

EDIT: I went back and looked up the price I was charged for the BG Transfluid Exchange on my LC it was $329 back in late 2015.

Now that I do my own work, the DIY method of disconnecting at trans cooler is simple and cost effective. On A750 transmissions calling for WS, If you dont have a line on Toyota WS for under $7.50 a quart, the AISIN WS is suitable alternate and around $5.80 a quart on rock auto. If you buy two 12 bottle cases you’ll have extra left over for quick refresh drain & fill down the road.
 
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Why are you having them pull the transmission pan?
BTW: starting in 2003 (IIRC) the pan began use of gasket, not FIPG. Pulling and resealing a pan with FIPG (98-02) is much more labor intensive, than just a gasket.

Handy and will do a diff and oil changes etc but wanted to not mess with such an important part of the vehicle. I asked for a fluid change and this was the quote sent over. What should the ask be? This quote was from a very reputable to IH8MUD shop so unsure if I asked for the wrong thing or if the price is just expensive. Thank you all for the assistance and kindness when posting on a 100 forum for my 200!
 
It would be helpful if you disclosed a little info on your rig. Year, miles, previous and intended use (DD, offload, tow, etc).

You need to speak with the shop. But that is not a full 12 qt flush. It is a pan drop and clean (on a 200 series). Which is not a bad idea, just not usually necessary. They only have 5.5 qts in estimate. That is a "long drain" & fill or pan drop. Note: "long drain" letting transmission drain overnight will yield more. In just a quick drain of ~5 min., we get about 2.5 qts in from the 100 series.

I feel any shop that takes the time, space and capital carry cost to stock the fluid/parts for customer, needs to mark-up the prices. But $17.46 is a hefty mark-up. See market prices for: M1 MV ATF, which can be used 98-2002. Toyota IV ATF in 2003. Toyota WS ATF for 04 an u.

FIPG was used up to 2002 IIRC. After that it's a gaskets for pan to body of transmission. To my knowledge Toyota does not recommend use of FIPG on a pan gasket. Could be this shops likes to for some reason, IDK. But they do not show gasket.

I just helped a local with his 2005, do his transmission full 12 qts flush. I estimated 2 hours. It took closer to 5 hr. 5 hrs seems excessive right and it was. Well we needed too:
  1. Bring 05LC into shop and let cool a bit. As fill plug is next to exhaust after 2003.
  2. Run to parts store, to dump my catch/storage containers, to make room for ~12+ qts.
  3. Go by Toyota and pick up 12 qts WS ATF. Which I had to order early in week, so it be on hand.
  4. I had to go into my stash for washer/gasket which I spend time and money to stock.
  5. Set up tools along with the rig for draining, flushing and filling.
  6. Found the drain plug threads damaged from over torquing. Ran back to Toyota parts again for new OEM drain plug.
  7. Chase threads of pan drain plug hole, with a thread cleaning tool.
  8. Look up TSB to get new temperatures 97 to 115f, for topping procedure.
  9. Look up torque specs to make sure I recalled correctly. 29ft-lbf fill, 15ft-lbf check and drain plugs.
  10. Hook up tech-stream to see when transmission temp up to specific range 97 - 115F (TSB new range). I've tried a IR temp gun to shoot temp off pan before. I found it unreliable. It's also dependent on where I shoot beam on pan to read temp and OAT.)
  11. Darn if we weren't low. I've a way to make sure I've ~1/2 qts extra (more than came out) in trans at end of flush. But I'd not checked level to starts. Seems it was just a touch low. This indicates level was not set to Toyota recommend temperature in the past drain & fills or flushes.
  12. So now back under to pull fill plug and run fill line again, with a hot exhaust. PITA and good way to get arm burned.
  13. Add 1/2 qt more from my stock.
  14. Run up temp again and check level at check plug.
  15. Torque and fill & check plugs again with new washer on drain.
  16. Test drive, inspect and clean up.
Had we done a pan drop also, would have been more time and materials. How much time and what parts is hard to say. In our aging fleet we run into issues, especially if ever worked on before.

So again; speak with the shop!

BTW: When doing gear boxes. Let sit for 15 minutes or go for drive and let sit 5 minutes after filling, then re-top. Use new gaskets/washer and a torque wrench.
 
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