Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (17 Viewers)

[2001LC]

is that PCV valve thread-in?

Yes, Mr T started doing that in 03. It a better design. As the 98-02 grommet must be changed as they leak after ~7 years or sooner.
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Fuel line from filter to fuel rail and fuel pressure pulsation damper install.

Routing in the fuel line for fitment.

Use new gaskets (washers) everytime loosened or removed.

 

[2001LC]

New Air filter & MAF sensor cleaning.
Old filter's (600 miles) rubber seal was deformed, so I replaced it. I just like going with OEM these days, it's the safest bet!

Used some CRC MAF cleaner

 

[2001LC]

New radiator being ready for install.

I swap my old radiator side bracket with foam intacted to new.

I then cut off top foam carefully separating taped of foam from old radiator, leaving tape on foam. I then degrease new surface in perp for glue (I just used 102 FIPG). A straight piece of wood help me press foam into glue put on new radiator and align. I then let sit overnight to dry.
Torque side brackets bolts to 7ft-lbf with some blue.

I set the foam 5mm below top, as found on the OEM. Yet I've a 2mm gap between it and radiator upper support. Not a big deal, but if I use this brand again I'll set 2mm higher. This indicates the radiator may be just slightly shorter (smaller).

 

[2001LC]

Radiator install continued, with this Spectra Premium CU2755.

I found (as did @abuck99) the lower hose & reservoir hose goosenecks with slightly smaller OD. I filled down what I thought to be casting ridges on these goosenecks. Filling down revealed they're troughs not ridges, I'm not happy!

For the reservoir I cut ~1" of old hose, to get to a unstretched hose end for a tighter fit. On lower radiator hose outlet end I used the factory hose, will see if it weeps. If I've any weeps/leaks, I'll send back. Edited 5/19/18: I did send back, as leaked/weeped once engine at operating temp. I replaced with A Denso.

 

[2001LC]

The install was easy. Just place the fan shroud over the fan. Removed my cardboard protector and drop in the new radiator. I then bolted up the lower then upper securing points. Followed by bolting on fan shroud, wire brackets, reservoir and NEW OEM upper radiator hose. Then attached the lower hose, transmission cooler lines and NEW OEM radiator cap.

New OEM cap

 

[2001LC]

Air box install & hooking to hoses.
Darn can't find my two securing bolts, out of hundreds of bolts just these two missing. Found them!
I like to sure the large wire clamps fit with wire evenly spread around the air box tubes.

Battery wires next, cleaning and inspecting as I go (as always)

Fluids stacked on bench must all go in before start up. With my temp/short run synthetic oil to do an engine flush with BG EPR I'll add to it.

Customizing a transmission fill plug to use as a filling tool.

 

[2001LC]

Started adding fluids.

Who said you only get 2 or 3 qts from a transmission pan draining, I got 7 qts.
Perhaps with torque converter out and blowing air in return line, it allowed more to drain out of pan. So I'm going to flood the transmission and let settle until I have about same back in, before starting up.

Transmission without dipstick is a dip$#it of a design, I hate it!

My custom drian plug at work. I'd not normally need/use this during a transmission fill. But I plan overfill pan, starting and stopping engine many times and checking level in this configuration. So I will not need to reinstall fill plug before each start-up. FSM has us reinstall fill plug after filling and before starting engine. But with hot exhaust next to transmission, it's difficult to do without burning my arm. So this is my arm saver

Oils in, just 6 qts out of 7 capacity. I'll add the BG EPR flush, after I've run for a while making sure everything's ok. Then drain and put in M1 5W-30 oil & filter.

First fill, so I poured extra into the reservoir. Which first burp should swallow.

 

[dace voit]

Transmission without dipstick is a dip$#it of a design

Agreed. Why did Mr. T make this harder than it needs to be? They have to know that people WILL be flushing/changing the fluid, regardless of "lifetime" spec or not.

On the trans fill plug customization, did you do this just to make for a cleaner fill? Also, does the displaced air just vent through the breather or did you open up another port?

 

[2001LC]

Agreed. Why did Mr. T make this harder than it needs to be? They have to know that people WILL be flushing/changing the fluid, regardless of "lifetime" spec or not.

On the trans fill plug customization, did you do this just to make for a cleaner fill? Also, does the displaced air just vent through the breather or did you open up another port?

I did make this for cleaner fill an not having to be "as" concerned with hose falling out during fill. Also I had gotten 7 qts of ATF WS out of pan, which is more than pan holds. So I wanted to over fill pan, flooding transmission to let settle into pump "hopefully". With my fill plug attachment I can fill to the top if I like. What I did do is put 7 qts back in. This should leave me ~1/2 qt or so low, from radiator and coolant line draining.

It was slow filling, as air only escape was from breathers. I considered pulling check plug, so it would fill faster. But I'd would have just had to plug once it over filled to meet my objective of flooding.

I didn't expect so much oil out of pan, so plan was to flush anyway. But, I wish I'd spent more time draining torque converter then I'd not need to flush, just fill, as it turned out. This would have saved time and $$ extra for WS ATF I'll need.

BTW: New OEM fill plug is only $2. They're hollow on backside making a nice guide for drilling out. Size was perfect for hose I had used in past for ATF.

 

[abuck99]

Did you pre-fill the trans cooler in the radiator?

 

[dace voit]

Thanks. Makes sense considering your goal. FWIW, the breathers don't let much air through so pulling them out of the line might expedite the fill process(?).

But, I wish I'd spent more time draining torque converter then I'd not need to flush, just fill, as it turned out.

Will the TC drain on it's own while on the truck(is that why so much was in the pan when drained)?

 

[2001LC]

Did you pre-fill the trans cooler in the radiator?

No, and I also blew 20psi of HP air into cooler return line at last point before pipe bracket near side of engine, while draining pan. So I'm not overfilling, and I'm ~1/2 qt or more low is my estimate.

How much did you get on pre fill of radiator?

Thanks. Makes sense considering your goal. FWIW, the breathers don't let much air through so pulling them out of the line might expedite the fill process(?).



Will the TC drain on it's own while on the truck(is that why so much was in the pan when drained)?

Yeah breathers definitely didn't allow for much air escape. I had already attached hoses to breather caps, and did consider pulling back off. Good idea!

But I just worked on other stuff as I filled, so was fast enough for me. But if I was trying to keep up with out flow during and engine running flush. Well, then I may just need to allow more air escape. I say "may" because fluid coming out should aid the inflow. I'll keep your suggestion in mind.

No TC will not drain on its own, at least not much. I think it had more to do with TC removed, it didn't have vacuum holding fluid back in pump and passages. Like holding finger on straw while lifting out of a glass of water.

The TC (I now know) will not just drain out even while out of the transmission on beach. It must be set on bench open end up. A puddle of fluid then accumulates in bottom of TC open end. It must then be sucked out. This was conclusion I came to at least.

 

[abuck99]

No, and I also blew 20psi of HP air into cooler return line at last point before pipe bracket near side of engine, while draining pan. So I'm not overfilling, and I'm ~1/2 qt or more low is my estimate.

How much did you get on pre fill of radiator?

Maybe just shy of 1/2 quart.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks @abuck99 that what I'd thought you said. It's how I came up with my estimate

Oh while on subject of transmission and their breathers. I did find one of the breather hoses a little cracked at end. So I replaced with some fuel line I had lying around. Fuel line being a little oversize OD, the factory clamp would not fit snugly. I'm such a pack-rate, that I save old clamps and stuff. Found ones that fit perfect in my box of used stuff. I think they came from old vacuum lines off power steering pump. SWEET!

Topping transmission procedure. Is a pain to say the least:

1st temperature of ATF must be between 97 F and 115 F degrees. This is different than the FSM tells us. The FSM also give us a procedure to jump two leads 4 & 13 at the DLC3 port (in footwell above gas pedal), to get dash light to flash indicating when specific temperature range of 115 F to 130 F is reached, forget it.

A TSB, now makes using the FSM procedure wrong and will yield a low fluid level.
T-SB-0129-08 July 9 2008 Toyota change recommendation to between 97 F to 115 F. Thank you @abuck99 for sending me this TSB.

So I use a Mini VCI cable to hook up to tech stream to read actually ATF temperature. I found just idling after engine reaches operating temp; ATF temp gets to ~100 F, shifting through gears ~110 F and raising RPM while shifting through gears it reaches ~116.5F in ~30 seconds with a OAT of 75 F.

Once temperature reached, check plug is removed from transmission while engine idles. If fluid comes out let it, until it's just tickle and then reinstall check plug with new washer/gasket and torque to 15ft-lbf. If not, install check plug temporarily. Stop engine and add ~0.4 qtrs of ATF, then reinstall fill plug and re-check ATF level by going through procedure again. Once done torque fill plug to 29ft-lbf (no need for new O-ring).

I need to re check the gasket PN, as it fit loose. So care must be taken to center when torquing on

Torque to 15ft'lbf

 

[2001LC]

Power steering.

Some may have noticed I didn't post much of anything on power steering.

I've actually done some interesting and extensive work on the entire steering system. I've a little more yet to do, but that is in interior with column motor extension issue. So I may just edited end of this steering section later with that.

Here's a partial list:
Removed the steering rack & pinion.
Installed new OE rubber rack mounting bushing. "No poly bushings for this baby."
Test HP line for leaks.
Installed vane pump.
Replace gasket of HP line at vane pump and gearbox.
Replace vacuum hose assembly.
Cleaned out reservoir and it's screen.
Replace suction hose (reservoir to vane pump)
Replaced return hose on reservoir.
Filled with M1 full synthetic ATF.

I did this without a test drive, just going on age and miles. Some static test done, didn't reveal a big need but I know from past experience I'd gain incremental improvement and buy years of new form factory driving feel and get ahead of leaks. That feel of wandering side to side down the HWY, if any should be 10 years or more away now.

DS bushing can be seen here with some minor cracking in rubber. This doesn't mean bushing is shot, but indicates it's on the way out. It's really what one would expect to see for a 2007 w/127K miles. Camera hung upside down and is swing, but you'll get the idea!


First off I'll pulled the steering rack and replace the mounting bushings. Only instead of the common poly bushings I and others here have used, I found rubber OE bushing. I purchased from three different sources for comparison. Two are the same from rebuilders of racks & CV's of unknown manufacturer, that I like the look of. The third was from Febest, junk I sent back.

IMHO rubber is a better choice. Where poly's will out last rubber, they have there bad side.
1) Poly bushings needs greasing or oiling during install and every-so-often or they squeak.
2) Poly's are very stiff. This not only transfers more shock (road vibration) to drives hands on steering wheel, it send more shock through the front end i.e TRE. ball joints, LCA, rack and pinion, steering column. This reduce life of components and may find weak parts/components in a hurry.

Mr T design with rubber for more than just comfort for driver hands on steering wheel IMHO. So I'll follow Mr T's lead here and use rubber. Unfortunately Mr T feels the job too difficult, and so will not sell us the OEM rubber bushings. So must find OE (Original equivalent) rubber bushing with steel cup and center shafts bushing.

Found some on ebay out of CA and locally at CVJ. CVJ said they get theirs out of CA, and is a change from what they've used in past do to issue in the 4runner racks they've seen. CA supplier is also a rebuilder and has used same supplier for 18 years, with zero issues reported.

Here's the Febest junk I sent back. This company beats the drum of being a "German Co." But the quality control from there China manufacture is poor. I'll not be using their junk ever, if I can avoid it. The center was tack welded off center, speaks poorly of manufacture process.

Center four are the OE's I did used, and are what the "Steering Rack" rebuilders are using. Outers are mix of old ones from The Unicorn and Snowy (06LC w/200K that I did with poly last year).

Steering Rack was so easy to remove with engine out. Doing the job on the bench made it a snap to replace bushings.

I started removal, by marking position of steering column to rack gearbox.

Also marked once half way out as guide for install.

 

[2001LC]

Notice the RH side (Drive side) bushing has oblong center steel bushing. This is not worn out, but by factory design.

On the bench, I ripped out inner part of bushing, then used air chisel tools to remove bushing outer cups from rack

 

[2001LC]

Hitting with a little PB blaster really aided removal of cups.
First upper cup out of RH side.

After all bushing cup out, I cleaned up the tools marks from rack mounting points. LH side being aluminum is always scared the most form air chisel. Main thing is to knock down high point, that may hinder seating.

 

[2001LC]

Pressing in new OE rubber steering rack mounting bushings.

I use some grease to aid install and protect from rust.

Some different configuration of hand press was necessary to seat.

Sweet,,,,, new rubber OE bushing are in.

 

[2001LC]

Cleaned up parts and grease to protect from rust. These bolts the FSM does list as non reusable, but these were just fine.

Torque mounting bolts to 89ft-lbf.

 

[2001LC]

Double checked my match marks for alignment of steering wheel, torqued and grease to protect from rust.
Torque 25ft-lbf.

Torque low pressure/return line flare nut fitting to 32ft-lbf

New gasket for HP line at rack gear box.

Attached the return HP line with new gasket.
Note:I had HP line pressure tested at a shop that builds HP lines. Normally I'd just clean and drive while watch for leaks
Torque HP line at gear box of rack with new gasket to 31ft-lbf