Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Even so, I know with this weight I am adding a lot of stress when it comes to keeping those components in the right temp ranges.
Yeah, the vehicle is ultra capable, but I think the main concern whether ambient temps are triple digits or not is how hot your fluids get while doing serious work.
 
Very fair assessments. Im hoping to hook up in the next week or two and head north to some cooler temp. Thinking Logan or Bear Lake. I haven't had it attached yet, and have the WD hitch and scanner being shipped now. Brake controller was installed yesterday. The SC has definitely given the rig some pep and climbability. I know that temp monitoring will be key for sure especially during summer run, especially going south.
All your input has been helpful. Thank you! Please keep it coming!
 
Happy Friday!
Been reading SO much info on this thread and others in regards to towing, what hitches to use, scales, setup, OBD II Gauge monitoring, and trying to keep it all straight. I figured I would toss this to the masses and see if I am on the right track.

Ill start off saying I know am towing heavy, maybe too heavy. I am open to downgrading the size of the trailer to match the capacity of this LX. But any opinions and direction would be awesome. With that said, here is what I am looking to do.

Just bought a new to me 2013 LX570:
View attachment 3946903
2013 LX
100,000 miles
Supercharged since 30,000 miles
Big brake kit, 6 piston fronts, 4 piston rears
Tuned and exhaust upgrades

I am wanting to tow this:
View attachment 3946904
2024 Forest River Campsite Reserve
24' long
Dry weight around #6500----aka heavy for an LX

Currently towing it with this:
View attachment 3946905
Which I know can tow a house. I don't even feel the trailer behind this. And I know I am in no way going to replicate that with the LX.

With the additional boost from the SC on the LX, and with the bigger, more powerful brakes, I am just wondering/hoping pulling this RV will be manageable. I live here in Utah and cover the state on our adventures. We are mostly off grid and in some more remote places.
The reason for the switch is that I am wanting to use the work truck less, and my personal rig more. And having a smaller foot print. Trying to get in tight places with a crew cab long bed and trailer has been problematic a couple of times.
I am looking to get this WD hitch:
View attachment 3946916With the #800 tongue weight

And this OBDII gauge setup:
View attachment 3946918

I think I am on the right path to be in good shape. If I have to, I am looking at smaller RV's to fit in the right parameters, but that is an expensive option B.
Will the AHC of the Lx handle what I am looking to do? Do I/Can I add air bags to help? Or is that unnecessary with the AHC.
I know I am pushing some of the limits here, but am I too far to the line to be safe?
Thoughts from anyone on this setup? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

You've probably already found some of my posts. Your trailer is close to the same weight class of my trailer. I'll cautiously say yes, it can work. YMMV. The reality is that towing closer to the limits means there's much less margin and all the variables that could impact performance have to be really right for it all to work.

I'll try to capture the biggest variables at play
- Power is not the issue. As you're already aware, heat, power sustainability, and efficiency are ultimately going to be larger factors to good towing performance. Heat at elevation might be something to pay attention to.
- Highly recommend expanding transmission cooling
- Limited stock range and fuel efficiency. The trailer aerodynamics will play into this further. Aux tank may be something to put up high on the list.
- Super important to bring the ball as close to the bumper as possible
- Looks like super low offset wheels on your rig which you may want to reconsider. The added track width is going to be a liability in several ways. You're going to be above rear GAWR and the offset is going to put more load on the axle and bearings. Steering geometry on the front axle is going to create pull and make it fatiguing to drive, in gusty winds, passing rigs, or even just putting down power or braking
- Good that you have BBKs. Though you'll also need really good gearing at this weight level to ensure sufficient and safe engine braking. Can't tell what tire size that is but it does look larger than stock which means gearing and engine braking will be compromised
- Could use airbags but that's not a must either. You may want to understand if this rig has an AHC sensor lift. And you'll want to appropriately augment AHC for the heavy tongue weights
- The 200-series is hugely maneuverable and an asset I use a lot to get into more creative locations
- I prefer WD hitch styles that avoid the chain. As they usually require tools.
- I'd caution bikes on the rear until you're comfortable the setup is really dialed in and stable. I do have a rack on mine too but still, would keep that as light as possible as it has the possibility to dramatically invite sway instability
1752357836175.png
 
Last edited:
You've probably already found some of my posts. Your trailer is close to the same weight class of my trailer. I'll cautiously say yes, it can work. YMMV. The reality is that towing closer to the limits means there's much less margin and all the variables that could impact performance have to be really right for it all to work.

I'll try to capture the biggest variables at play
- Power is not the issue. As you're already aware, heat, power sustainability, and efficiency are ultimately going to be larger factors to good towing performance. Heat at elevation might be something to pay attention to.
- Highly recommend expanding transmission cooling
- Limited stock range and fuel efficiency. The trailer aerodynamics will play into this further. Aux tank may be something to put up high on the list.
- Super important to bring the ball as close to the bumper as possible
- Looks like super low offset wheels on your rig which you may want to reconsider. The added track width is going to be a liability in several ways. You're going to be above rear GAWR and the offset is going to put more load on the axle and bearings. Steering geometry on the front axle is going to create pull and make it fatiguing to drive, in gusty winds, passing rigs, or even just putting down power or braking
- Good that you have BBKs. Though you'll also need really good gearing at this weight level to ensure sufficient and safe engine braking. Can't tell what tire size that is but it does look larger than stock which means gearing and engine braking will be compromised
- Could use airbags but that's not a must either. You may want to understand if this rig has an AHC sensor lift. And you'll want to appropriately augment AHC for the heavy tongue weights
- The 200-series is hugely maneuverable and an asset I use a lot to get into more creative locations
- I prefer WD hitch styles that avoid the chain. As they usually require tools.
- I'd caution bikes on the rear until you're comfortable the setup is really dialed in and stable. I do have a rack on mine too but still, would keep that as light as possible as it has the possibility to dramatically invite sway instability
View attachment 3947732
This whole time I thought you were really brave to tow this setup but as soon as I noticed your tandem bike I realized it’s more than just courage…you truly chase the impossible and must have one heck of a spouse.
 
This whole time I thought you were really brave to tow this setup but as soon as I noticed your tandem bike I realized it’s more than just courage…you truly chase the impossible and must have one heck of a spouse.

LOL. The relationship accelerator.
 
Just got back from a 16 day 3500 mile east coast run. Starting in NE FL up through SC, WV, PA, Niagra, VT, ME, MA, MD/DC, NC and back.

Our 2020 LC HE performed phenomenally through all of it. IMO it did show it's weaknesses in range and mountainous terrain. Traveled with a Chevy 2500HD towing a similar camper and a Class A and the LC impressively held it's own. Drafting is your friend...makes a HUGE difference in mpgs.

2020 LC HE
- 275/70/18 Falken Wildpeak AT4
- OME 2720s (rear)
- Firestone Coil-Rite air bags
- Blue Ox SwayPro WD hitch

2024 FR r-pod 202
- 25' length
- 4,868 lbs dry weight
- Curt independent Suspension

IMG_2393.JPEG
 
I've got a 2014 570 with the 20" rims and factory size tires. I have for the past 5 years towed a uhaul car trailer with my built lx450 on the back and all my gear and tools. I'm at max capacity. It's around a 4 hour trip up into the NC mountains and back down into TN. I usually average 12 mpg going and 11mpg coming back. Never had an AHC issue. I will say I did have a tire blow out while doing 55 passing a semi around a corner down a steep grade and the semi realize I was in trouble and backed off. The trailer yanked my vehicle around pretty good with the stability control working overtime but I got it off the road and safe. Other than that it feels super safe on the road and braking hasn't ever been a problem.
 
Transmission issues last week. I’m at 174k miles. Y’all can debate whether it’s from 50k miles of towing or from off-road use.

 
In the middle of a two month trip and both Cruiser and new 25' camper have been great. From the Catskills of NY to Moab and a couple weeks in Colorado and NM.

The 200 has a new ECU and I wanted to make sure this was absolutely true in all circumstances before I got excited and told you guys: It is not boiling gas anymore while towing! And it had all the ingredients already this summer...10k mountain passes, 100 degree temps.

I'm so happy, as this drove me crazy and I was so tired of the dash lighting up. And unlike my 100, feeding it non ethanol did not help.

I'm enjoying a worry-free summer of towing my camper around the country 😊

I can't figure out out how to narrate between pics since this Mud update...but we floated the Colorado with @DRANGED

...and are now in the French Quarter with St. Louis Cemetery #2 next to us.

PXL_20250706_205745858.webp


PXL_20250712_183220127.webp


PXL_20250720_221210787.webp


PXL_20250710_231038843~2.webp


PXL_20250712_230518486.webp


PXL_20250726_234310224.webp


PXL_20250726_224851468~2.webp
 
In the middle of a two month trip and both Cruiser and new 25' camper have been great. From the Catskills of NY to Moab and a couple weeks in Colorado and NM.

The 200 has a new ECU and I wanted to make sure this was absolutely true in all circumstances before I got excited and told you guys: It is not boiling gas anymore while towing! And it had all the ingredients already this summer...10k mountain passes, 100 degree temps.
I saw your earlier post on the ECU. Is it the Fuel ECU or another one?
 
I saw your earlier post on the ECU. Is it the Fuel ECU or another one?
"Engine control module" 89661-60K82

Unrelated to towing, but my flashing diff light that appeared when it was cold and humid -- and that I took for granted was a typical 200 issue -- is also gone.
 
"Engine control module" 89661-60K82

Unrelated to towing, but my flashing diff light that appeared when it was cold and humid -- and that I took for granted was a typical 200 issue -- is also gone.
How would a new ECU correct for these issues? I had always thought they were a go/no go component that didn’t exhibit intermittent issues.
 
How would a new ECU correct for these issues? I had always thought they were a go/no go component that didn’t exhibit intermittent issues.

No idea. But it's the only variable that could have done it.
 
No idea. But it's the only variable that could have done it.
I could see this actually. The quick flashing issue isn’t a real failure exactly. There is some sort of self-test happening or some electrical circuit that’s open (or closed) that shouldn’t be when this occurs. It’s not that an ECU would fix this issue exactly, but it might have a different check sequence that said “check 3 times over 10 seconds before failing” or “ignore failure at cold start until it’s happened 3 consecutive times) or something.

Honestly Toyota’s failure modes suck. Check engine light because of an emissions issue? Let’s disable traction control so you skid off the road! Also let’s disable 4Lo even though it has NOTHING to do with emissions! So a default failure mode that renders 4Lo and the CDL useless because of an unrelated test failing wouldn’t shock me.
 
I could see this actually. The quick flashing issue isn’t a real failure exactly. There is some sort of self-test happening or some electrical circuit that’s open (or closed) that shouldn’t be when this occurs. It’s not that an ECU would fix this issue exactly, but it might have a different check sequence that said “check 3 times over 10 seconds before failing” or “ignore failure at cold start until it’s happened 3 consecutive times) or something.

Honestly Toyota’s failure modes suck. Check engine light because of an emissions issue? Let’s disable traction control so you skid off the road! Also let’s disable 4Lo even though it has NOTHING to do with emissions! So a default failure mode that renders 4Lo and the CDL useless because of an unrelated test failing wouldn’t shock me.

The diff light was just annoying in that it disabled cruise control.

I should also add that my gas mileage has improved -- towing and not-- albeit slightly.

But the boiling fuel was a completely different animal.

At first I thought it was too good to be true, and in all my searches I didn't see anyone in this forum discuss the phenomenon in relation to the ECU.

But Googling it made me think that it was connected, and at this point, after towing a 5k lb. camper 4k miles with long ascents, high altitude, and hot temps with zero lights and no boiling gas, I'm convinced.
 
How would a new ECU correct for these issues? I had always thought they were a go/no go component that didn’t exhibit intermittent issues.

Never seen it mentioned here

But in the Tundra forums, there’s been threads about various Amazon Cheapo ODB2 code reader/tuners damaging ECUs

No first hand experience with this, and haven’t verified it, but…. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Ever use a cheapo Amazon ODB2 scanner?
 
Never seen it mentioned here

But in the Tundra forums, there’s been threads about various Amazon Cheapo ODB2 code reader/tuners damaging ECUs

No first hand experience with this, and haven’t verified it, but…. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Ever use a cheapo Amazon ODB2 scanner?
I’ve slowly found myself moving more to manufacturer direct buying and away from Amazon, especially anything car, tool, or 2A related.

El cheap’o obd dongles causing ECU issues sounds creepy to me, even a little malicious.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom