Builds TonyP's Build (8 Viewers)
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gaijin
GOLD Star
Was that oil Toyota 0W-20 or something else?
Dark doesn't necessarily mean bad. Have you considered sending it out for oil analysis?
I've used these guys for cars, motorcycles, and an airplane: Blackstone Labs
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- #84
It was Toyota 0W-20.
It was (supposedly) changed when I got my warranty repair for the cam tower leak at 99k (at least that's what the work order said) and I'm at 1047XX now. I'm hoping they changed it, otherwise that oil is well over 15k old. But I have done several hundred miles on dirt since then. The cabin and air filters looked well worn too.
Also, I greased up my driveshafts today.
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- #85
True, but it looked far darker than I was expecting for only 5k. I might send out it out next change if it looks similar as I already dumped the oil at O'Rileys.
SQRRRL
SILVER Star
That looks extremely dark for 5,000. Perhaps they did not do the oil change? It was a dealer.
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- #87
Ordered resistors for the rear seats. In an effort to keep little to no weight on the roof, I'm planning on building a storage area in place of the rear (2nd row) seats.
I'm just debating on a metal frame or all wood. Metal would require buying a welder but I could tie into the stock seat mounting point.
Any thoughts?
I'm just debating on a metal frame or all wood. Metal would require buying a welder but I could tie into the stock seat mounting point.
Any thoughts?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I think weight would be negligible between the two designs, so that's probably not a factor.
You could still do an all wood construction, then build a bolt on bracket to the existing seat mounting points, and anchor the drawer system down to your new bracket with a turnbuckle anchor.
Here's an example of a turnbuckle. I kinda don't like them, because i don't like the idea of applying downward pressure, would rather just hold drawers in place. But they are awesome for quick removal, but that might not be needed in your build.
I'm guessing you've welded before, and even if you haven't, or anyone else reading this, just go watch a youtube video and start practicing. Welding is 5% technical knowledge and 95% trail and error. But its not hard at all, practice make better, and you'll be dropping dimes in no time.
You could still do an all wood construction, then build a bolt on bracket to the existing seat mounting points, and anchor the drawer system down to your new bracket with a turnbuckle anchor.
Here's an example of a turnbuckle. I kinda don't like them, because i don't like the idea of applying downward pressure, would rather just hold drawers in place. But they are awesome for quick removal, but that might not be needed in your build.
I'm guessing you've welded before, and even if you haven't, or anyone else reading this, just go watch a youtube video and start practicing. Welding is 5% technical knowledge and 95% trail and error. But its not hard at all, practice make better, and you'll be dropping dimes in no time.
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- #89
I have welded but I don't own a welder. The only dude I know locally with one has a cheapo Harbor Freight one that I'd like to avoid.
I emailed these guys to see what kind of weight their joints can support.
ESTO Connectors: Catalog - connectors
This way it'll be semi-modular and easily removed. I'd just screw some fiberboard on top can call it good. There are other connector companies that make them with a metal cores but I can't find a stateside supplier. I don't foresee a TON of weight over top so I think they might work.
Maybe I'll just buy a damn welder.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Yea definitely, i've seen those in person and they are a good idea for modularity, but i agree, the metal core ones would be a bit nicer for heavy items. I sometimes don't like them cause you do loose storage space of the width of the joint with those. Take three of those across the width of the cargo area, making two drawers, you loose 3" of available space.
That probably doesn't matter as much for you, because with taking out the second row, obviously you have more available space since less passengers aren't coming. Someone like me who has to fit a family of 4, with enough supplies to live out of it for 5 days, and now video equipment, things get tight.
I think at the end of the day, doing it yourself, with whatever design you go with, isn't going to cost much. Plus, if you don't like, you can try again, and it still won't cost much. So I would do with whatever design allows you to potentially reuse parts, should you want to mix things up later.
Like making sure drawer slides are the right length you want, and latches, and tie downs are the right length you want, regardless of the overall dimensions. That way maybe the only loss of a redesign is some ply and carpet
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- #91
Yeah, I'm with you on all accounts. I do need extra space for my telescope kit which takes up a lot cargo area. I can't imagine me needing any roof cargo space if I go this route which is the ultimate goal.
Plus, $90 in joints plus square stock or just buy square stock and a welder which I need anyways for my BMW project. Alright, guess I'll start shopping for a welder.
I have the slightly older version of this: Miller MIG Welders - MIG Welding & GMAW Welding Machines - MillerWelds
and I love it. It's a great welder to start with.
and I love it. It's a great welder to start with.
How often should we grease up the drive shafts?
As do I, same machine. Love it. Works really well, and you can use it on 120V until you get a 240V plug in your work area. I've gone up to 3/8" with it and it really does well.
Although... lately I've been thinking about getting rid of it, I just never use it anymore. I have all sorts of welders here at the office to pick from.
Not sure when the manual requires it without looking, but I put in grease at least once a year. I tried every oil change but not much grease was needed. I feel like greasing the zerks is an overlooked maintenance item. Every used car I have purchased has needed a ton of grease. I used to rely on my dealer to do it, but I swear they never did. The zerks on my wife's 4Runner were clearly untouched after the dealer assured me they had been greased as part of the Toyota Care maintenance. I ended up putting in about half a tube of grease in the zerks when I got home. Seems like most mechanics skip the lube portion of the lube, oil and filter.
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- #96
The manual states every 15k for regular driving. There's a provision for off-road driving. I think it's 10k? I don't think what I do constitutes "regular" so I go with every other oil change which equals out to every 10k. I've seen many-a-bearing on the driveshaft take a dump from inadequate lubrication.
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- #97
I flipped again. The email they sent seemed promising as far as weight capacity goes. So I ordered the ESTO connectors.
I'm looking forward to it clasping in the middle of the night while I'm passed out, ossified, drunk.
I'm looking forward to it clasping in the middle of the night while I'm passed out, ossified, drunk.
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- #98
Half assed sketch (ignore the 42"). Placed an order for 1" x 1" x 0.065 Aluminum square tube. It'll essentially be two connected 31x21x11.5 boxes. That's the plan at least.
Next to figure out what to plop on top. Some sort of something that's thin.
Next to figure out what to plop on top. Some sort of something that's thin.
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4 parts to this...
J
J
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- #100
That turned out pretty good and WAY more complex than what I'm going for so it gave me confidence that I'm not completely insane. I dig it. I'm liking that carpet idea too. I'll see if I can source something close to the OEM gray.
This is definitely turning into a fun, and cheap, project.
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