Builds TonyP's Build (1 Viewer)

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I originally wanted a 200 but decided on a Tundra for some reason. I figured it was a simple vehicle and I would have liked to have had a bed for my real estate gig. So I bought a Tundra Regular Cab. It was neat, we had some adventures, had 35s and a lift. But as it turns out, I don't like trucks. So I sold it after a few months of ownership and bought what I originally wanted, a 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser. I've owned several dozen vehicles over the years with ownership rarely exceeding one year, I won't post up the list as I'm fairly certain I've forgotten most. Lets just say everything from a $500 '92 Mazda MPV to an off the showroom floor BMW M4.

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Purchased sight unseen from a dealer in KCMO with 97k miles. It had full service records so I figured all was gravy. Flew out, drove it back to Utah the next day (with a nap in the back along the way, those heated rear seats were lovely to sleep on). When I got it home I found it had the cam tower seal leak. After several weeks of angry emails and phone calls to Jay Wolfe Toyota of KC (avoid these pricks), they eventually covered the cost. I still don't regret the purchase but I certainly wasn't pleased with a number of issues with Jay Wolfe.

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A set of Rock Warrior popped up for sale locally with new KO2s and the lug nut kit so I jumped on the deal.

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The interior lights were dreary. So I went over to superbrightleds.com and ordered the full lot.

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Then the SRS light and passenger airbag light was giving me issues. Poked around techstream and TIS and narrowed it down to the passenger seat belt assembly.
SRS/Seatbelt Lights
$350 later it was ordered. All that for the one little sensor at the bottom of the belt. Thanks Toyota.

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I began looking around for what kind of armor I wanted. The ARB/TJM thing wasn't my style, I wanted a specific set of boxes checked for whatever bumper I bought. I was talking with Jason @reevesci about sliders and suspension, I already had my order in for those and we were talking about him building me a bumper but my funds were a bit low at the time. Occasionally while driving around Utah I'd pass an accident and think to myself, if only some inattentive driver would rear end me, just enough damage to have a nice payout to get a new steel bumper. Lucky me. The kid in the CRV basically buried my hitch into this engine block. I'm pretty sure I scared the piss out of the kid since I came out of my vehicle and up to his window "rather upset" But it was only cosmetic damage to the 200 (the body shop guys were nice enough to include the hitch crossmember in the estimates) So the total cost was nearly $4000.

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So I PM'd Jason and made arrangements to get the big girl gussied up with steel. I can't say enough good things about Jason's customer service. He drove out and picked up my 200 for god sakes, how great is that? Constant emails and correspondence throughout the build process were fantastic. Customer service goes a long way with me and I was beyond impressed. Plus, the bumpers turned out far beyond my expectations. He fabbed up his sliders with a little modification, a slight upward angle. As for the bumpers, I basically gave him a general idea of what I wanted and had him run with it. It ended up getting a very high clearance front bumper with a built in Rigid 20in Flood/Spot hybrid and two Rigid spotties (D-Series Midnight) on either side. The rear has a dual swingout, one side hold the spare tire, telescoping worklight (Rigid DSS Dually) and a Hi-Lift mount. The other arm is a dual purpose arm. It can hold either a 2nd spare carrier or a tray that can hold 4 jerry cans or one jerry can and a Yeti 35 (or similar), also below the tray is a lockable toolbox for recovery gear or whatever. Also, two aux brake/reverse lights in the bumper as the spare sort of covers the OEM lens. The Rigids, aside from the 20in which I had from my previous 4Runner, were bought from the Mud sponsor MRT @MRT Motorsports. Amazing price and shipping time. I'm planning on getting with Chas here soon for an order for some Bubba Rope. Jason also had some drawers also come in from Australia that I jumped on too.
Trail Tailor- Custom Armor Build plus a few things

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In addition to my stuff. The 200 was also used to mock up some new parts for the community. Beefy recovery points, RLCA skids, tailgate storage, skid plates, ect..

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While the 200 was away I started planning and buying parts for my 2nd battery system. I'm an amateur astrophotograher for fun, so I need a fair bit of electricity to power all of the equipment. Piecing everything together was kinda fun. All in it came to $1200ish but a lot of that was the GoPower inverter/charger/switch that's definitely overkill for my purposes. I still have a 200W solar setup in my Amazon cart that I want too but I need to pay for some other stuff first. Plus, I'd like to see how this big ass group 31 performs first. Amazon and their damn one click ordering is dangerous stuff.

- Redarc Dual Sensing isolator
- Go Power 2000W Inverter/100A Charger/Auto-switcher
- Duracell 31DTMAGM Deep Cycle AGM 20 amp hour rate: 105
- Wingnut Marine Battery Terminal Posts
- Pico 15ea 2 AWG battery terminal/lugs
- 25ft of both red and black Marine grade 2 AWG wire (comes with more terminals and shrink tubing)
- 25ft of both red and black Ancor Marine Grade 16 AWG wire
- 2ea Blue Sea Systems ANL Fuse Block
- 3ea 200A Blue Sea ANL Fuses
- 120pcs Wirefy Heat Shrink Connector Kit
- 4A USB Charger Receptacle 15A with two 3 prong outlet (Home outlet style)
- Outlet box
- 2ea Blue Sea Systems 6 circuit Fuse Block (one each for front and rear)
- 15A male plug (for shore power/charging)
- 30A male to 15A female plug (incase of 30A service)
- 25ft 12/2 household wiring
- 50ft heavy duty extension cord
- Waterproof LED Volt Meter Gauge
- AirOnBoard battery link switch (to manually connect/jump both batteries)
- Quality crimpers for small and large AWG (these will save many angry moments)
- Jegs universal group 31 tray

Some of the goods:

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I purchased a Comeup 12.5 winch (wireless and wired with synthetic rope) from an undisclosed website that I'm fairly certain gave me a discount they weren't suppose to. Also, a Factor55 Flatlink E from @RDC76 Rich Costa. Supporting the vendors and a great price too.

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I received the 200 back last week from Jason, all of the fab work looking absolutely fantastic. He dropped everything off around 11am and I was in SLC at Full Blown Coatings dropping the gear off for coating by 1230. That's where everything is currently.

First order of business was getting the drawers bolted down. It was a task but I got it done with sweet delicious caffeine running though my veins. I'm very pleased with the overall quality considering they're sort of budget drawers. The left side is a rolling top, the right is not. Also, started the patch collection.

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While the armor was being coated I started with trying to get the cheap universal battery try to fit. I know there are far more plug and play options for 5x the price but I figured I'd give it a shot with this $20 tray. It turned out pretty good. I had to trim the airbox mount and move the P/S res and I still need to drill a few more mounting holes but it's in there good. BTW, that battery is a heavy bitch. Lugging that thing in and out several times with a bad back was a hoot.

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Since I was sick of looking at the Tough Dog suspension boxes I decided to get them installed yesterday (May 12th). Front is 45mm 9 stage adjustables with medium springs, rear are 53mm 9 stage adjustable with heavy springs. KDSS valves broke free fairly easily. I had previously coated the entire underside with Fluid Film so I think that helped a fair bit. I've done a good bit of suspension work on various vehicles but this was an asspain. The front wasn't too bad. I did over-extend the CVs and popped the bearings out which means I have to pull the boots off and rebuilt the CVs. Dumb move on my part, I should have known better. But not a huge deal since one of the boots was torn anyways. So two new boot sets are on order. The rear tested my patience to the point of me taking a reciprocating saw to the stock shocks. The top bolt isn't easily accessed and was seized pretty good. A metal blade on the saw made quick work of the shafts and in went the TD stuff with heavy rear springs. I don't have a pic of the front as I was too busy yelling expletives due to the CV situation. The wonky looking jack stand is an optical illusion, it's straight up. Also, they're each 4 ton stands and I spent a minimal time under them. Any jackstand give me the creeps regardless of weight rating.

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Last thing I've done so far is the Ram mount. I bought a used Galaxy Tab 10.5 from ebay that I plan on using for maps, music, video, Workshop manual, ect... So I purchased a couple of ball mounts, the long connector and a 10.5 holder. It fits perfectly center oddly enough and covers that useless cd/dvd player. I'm playing around with a RavPower wifi server thing that I'm going to mount somewhere. It's the size of a deck of cards and can stream files from an attached hard drive. More on that later.

Yes, I drink a lot of water.

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So that's where it stands as of now. It's going to be parked for a week or so until I can get the CVs rebuilt. By then I should have the armor back and hopefully take it on it's maiden voyage. In the mean time I'll get the 2nd battery system wired up this week.
 
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Ammo?! pfffffffhh!

Haha. I might be one of the few here to understand that patch. I had one when I was MX.

What drawers are those?
 
Turns out I had the wrong socket to pull the CVs off so I did electrical work instead. It's 99% complete. I still need to wire in the battery link switch (jumps one battery to the other manually) and the little voltage gauge. I'll get some wire mounting P-clips to neaten everything up later. I'll probably change the 16AWG into the blue sea units to something more robust like 10ish, but 16AWG is rated at 22 amps so I'll be ok for now since I have nothing hooked up yet. The inverter needs a mounting plate. It's wedged in there pretty good and isn't going anywhere but I'm going to mount it to the rear of the drawers. The plug below the standard outlet is the AC inlet. When you plug in shore/camp power it'll charge the batteries and power anything that the inverter was powering. Pretty cool stuff. The outlets are a little cockeyed since I was missing some tools but you gotta piss with the cock you got.

Mind the mess.

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Red light with the engine running means success!

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Edit: Just ordered some 10AWG marine Red and Black for the Blue Sea units, the 16 will bother me too much.

Also, I have one more ANL fuse block that'll go next to the other one that'll fuse the aux battery. I just forgot to wire it in.:banana:
 
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T,

Are the drawers all the way against the back seat? I've had a few people ask but can't answer since your seats were out.

J

There's still room, a good bit actually. Here's with the seat all the way back in it's tracks and one with the seat reclined as far as it'll go. The other seat is all the way forward in it's tracks to fit the inverter.

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I think I'm going to relocate the power steering reservoir to a better location. Probably behind the air box. Where it is now isn't ideal for a few reasons. I figure it's just a matter of extending the lines. They're both low/no pressure so I'm not seeing an issue with it. I can probably use the stock bracket with some fabricobbling

If anyone knows of a reason why I shouldn't let me know.
 
Great work @TonyP ! I thought about you yesterday when I heard someone lockup their tires behind me on the freeway. Its amazing how many thoughts run through your mind in a fraction of a second.....
1) Uh oh. I might get hit!
2) Hey, is that a CRV? No? Dang.
3) Wait a minute this could work out in my favor just like TonyP
4) What if I get hit too hard?
5) I hope no one gets hurt
6) I wonder if I should get the same degree of tilt on my sliders?
7) Should I try to color match my bumpers or just go black?
8) Man I can't wait to get my bumpers from Jason
9) Dammit - they stopped in time and didn't hit me!
 
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