Timing belt job just done. Blown engine or savable? This is interesting guys!

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Hard to say how much cam sprocket spun. The bolt likely tight as crank turned CW. I had put a black mark on cam just behind sprocket in early test. Just to see if it moved with sprocket, it did. Mark as it turn out was on over the knock pin in cam. Pin that was sheared in the sprocket, was ~1" away CW. It was tight enough that was not spinning best I could tell during leak down test.

Back side looks like maybe it turn 100 to 120 degrees. Based on where shinny ends.
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Now I'm 90% the way to finding out if this engine is savable. The acid test, the last 2% is firing it up. But first I needed to get the sheared pin out of the cam or I'll need a replacement cam.

So out with the center punch to mark the pin still stuck in the cam. I learned through the day the knock pin is pressed in. Moore80 north of me 100 miles had one on the bench. We facetimed (a first for me) and he tried to pull out, it would not. come out.

But how do get a pressed in pin out. Easy-out will not work as it's not thread in cam. So is must be drilled it out. But there lies a second issue. Cam and cranks are balance. If I drill any metal other than pin from cam or use a new pin of different weight, I could setup for an out of balance cam.

I start with very small bit. I place towels and a magnetic to catch metal shaving. Did not want that stuff getting in alter or water pipes.
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Luck I was able to get this busted dril bit out easy.
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Now time to step up bit size.
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One dead soldier.. Here served well...LOL

I was off center a bit. So next size I cut at an angle to see if I could center hole. I did more or less.
 
Very interesting exploration and good find.

Would it be easy to get one of those small circular file mounted to the drill and file the top of the hole? Harbor freight has those tiny files.
 
I do have some tiny diamond bit and stone from HF. Had even considered those. I just get ideas and hunt shop for implement to get it done with trip to store. This job has be MacGyver all the way. Every job I thing of more tools I'd like. But most time find what I need at hand and forget the tool I wanted until next time.
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I had know real idea of how deep to drill. If pin is flush to back of hole and I go to deep. Then I've the balance issue from removing metal (weight). I had and idea, that required me to go deep as I could, so I used length of sheared pin I did have. It's ~7mm.

My idea was now to tap the hole. But I had the issue of depth. My Taps have point that guild and start the thread cut. So since I did not drill through pin. I decide to drill to just ~7.5mm and then start thread cut. Once tap bottomed, I back out and ground down the tip of the tap. I ground down a few times until flat at square thread of tap, working threads deeper and deeper in the hole.

Best would be to poke through back. Run in a screw and as screw bottom it would push pin out. But I elected to try a puller and not risk removing any weight, at least first try.
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Was tight at first. I turned puller very slowly. Last thing I want is to break my screw. It didn't seem to be working. Screw was just bending over. I heard a pop, then saw it move was starting to come out. All right! 2 hour of drilling and gather tools paid off.
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Look at you go, man. Look at you go!

Very cool to see that all unfold. Thank you for sharing. Impressive that you drilled and tapped the pin without getting outside the pin. In the car, no less. Kudos!

I'm amazed the pin sheared. Must have been quite loose and took one hell of an impact on startup.
 
Beautiful detective work! Congrats!
You took a chance with that puller. A slide hammer on the screw might have been easier?
 
@2001LC Awesome work man! You proved that diligence and a steady hand go a long way 👍
 
Go buy a lottery ticket. You conquered it!
 
Great job!
 
Well done!
Thanks you! We may save this one. Will know soon once I get a knock pin.
Look at you go, man. Look at you go!

Very cool to see that all unfold. Thank you for sharing. Impressive that you drilled and tapped the pin without getting outside the pin. In the car, no less. Kudos!

I'm amazed the pin sheared. Must have been quite loose and took one hell of an impact on startup.
Has been interesting!
Beautiful detective work! Congrats!
You took a chance with that puller. A slide hammer on the screw might have been easier?
I know! I just MacGyver with what I had/have in the shop. I should have at least shimming the low side of puller as it first start bending the screw, to keep straight. That is why you can see pry bar, to keep level somewhat.

You'll not believe how slow I turned that puller. It was sloooooow motion. The screw was old American steel, but still if it broke,,,,,

I saved from doing a cam R&R or so I hope! That's a big deal as valves would have also needed re gaping. I've already way to much time in this project.
@2001LC Awesome work man! You proved that diligence and a steady hand go a long way 👍
Thanks and it did thank you!
Go buy a lottery ticket. You conquered it!
I feeling very lucky. I think I will walk up a get one. I also had some PDR work done yesterday in between this work on Graygal. That I'm very happy. Done by Will over in the 80 section.

You know the feeling, I'm sure. But I'll do the happy dance when it fires up.
Badass man. Great job
Thank you.


Slow clap. Impressive trouble shooting!
Thanks man up North!
Great job!
Thank you.

Guys you're really giving a big head stop. No don't...LOL

If not for mud I'd not get much of this done. Mud is a great community where everyone is so helpful, and just about everything has been done on these 100 series.

I'm as prod off this as diagnosing an inop AC, 5 dealership and two mechanics we know of could not. Also the windshield wiper issue I never wrote about. I like the tough one's, makes my lazy brain work...LOL.

I've got a big deal under warps now. It is an issue I've been looking for, so I could solve. It's a real brain twister. I've left clues all over mud for 6 moths on it.

Hope to have parts in a few hours. this project.

For now off for walk and cup of coffee. Than a some work on very puzzling brake job.

Man I've I been hit lately with tough jobs. Mostly fixing what other have messed up!
 
Most Techs have no passion for what they do or any clue about technology (mechanical and electriical). So far I found 3 intelligent techs and one is our 2001LC, Scotty and the other is Eric O at South Main Auto in NY.
 
my guess is you now have a customer for life, and lots of good word of mouth.
 
Great solution and dedication to getting it done. If you have a 'slide hammer' that might have also pulled the dowel pin once it was drilled and tapped and screw/ bolt threaded in. That way you'd be pulling in the Axial direction with no off center forces. But you got it out with what you had on hand. Ingenious!
 
Let’s hope it runs good after put together.
As far as mechanics I guess there’s good ones out there but I yet to find one. I met shop owner, very nice guy driving GX and LX and he knows less than me about those cars. Thing is the service everything to make money. They don’t have time to study manuals for every make out there.

Even dealerships won’t do good job on LX simply because they see very few of them this days and guy who knew how to work them probably retired by now
 
This one too? Why do you think this happened?
Yes this was a botched job by someone else. I got involved after the fact, because they're were going to replace the engine.

It happens because of failure to torque bolt. ;)

I found a few loose bolts and some procedural errors. Like FIPG 103 oil used on water, when FIPG 12182B is called for. No sealant on tensioner 10mm alen head bolt threads. Installing a bad fan bracket which would have assured more labor bills in near future.

A bolt or two not torque happens. This many and a critical one possible more is not acceptable.

Most Techs have no passion for what they do or any clue about technology (mechanical and electriical). So far I found 3 intelligent techs and one is our 2001LC, Scotty and the other is Eric O at South Main Auto in NY.
Thank for saying that. I know a few around Denver. I'd go to.
my guess is you now have a customer for life, and lots of good word of mouth.
I need a bigger shop.
Great solution and dedication to getting it done. If you have a 'slide hammer' that might have also pulled the dowel pin once it was drilled and tapped and screw/ bolt threaded in. That way you'd be pulling in the Axial direction with no off center forces. But you got it out with what you had on hand. Ingenious!
I did not and space was limited to use a pull with radiator in. Also I was very concerned the threads I cut, would not hold any shock. It's why I moved very very SLOOOOOW.

I get list of new tools I'd like every job. But forget and just get it done with what I have most times. Last year I spent ~$10K on shop supplies. I now must get ride of sometime to get any thing new in, just out of space.

I do have expansion dreams. But takes $$$$$

I bought a loto ticket;) Like @duggy suggested. Win I get a shop that will blow your mind........ dreams...

Let’s hope it runs good after put together.
As far as mechanics I guess there’s good ones out there but I yet to find one. I met shop owner, very nice guy driving GX and LX and he knows less than me about those cars. Thing is the service everything to make money. They don’t have time to study manuals for every make out there.

Even dealerships won’t do good job on LX simply because they see very few of them this days and guy who knew how to work them probably retired by now
That's very true. The other issue is time. I spent the week on this and not done yet. Don't even know if efforts will bare fruit.

Should know tonight!
 

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